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Thanks folks.

Love it Larry.  Congratulations.

Changing reservoir tank and coolant in my 2006 VNL 780 with Volvo D 12 engine.  Mine uses the red extended life.  Anyone know what the coolant capacity is on this engine?  Having a hard time finding it online and can’t locate my owner’s manual quickly.  I’m thinking 11 gallons but not sure.

13 hours ago, aknavy said:

Mixed reviews on my first use of them.  My truck won't go into gear - I suspect it's the clutch adjustment or clutch brake.  The first answer from them for a tow was "It's not attached to the trailer, it's not covered."  After an hour and a couple calls and escalation to a supervisor, and asking them how it's not covered by the "all personal vehicles" in the policy coverages, they changed their verdict.  Then the answer was that we'll tow it to the nearest qualified service center, which is a dealer with poor reviews.  They allowed me to change the destination to another shop that was 2 miles further away.  So, I'm now awaiting a verdict on the repair - hopefully I'm right about the clutch adjustment and I get an inexpensive repair and get the truck back tomorrow.

Just a personal observation and my dealings with Good Sams and other service contract companies they are more than eager for you to pay your premiums but less than willing to cover their agreed services.

12 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Life is good

Yes it is.  Especially if you’ve got good camping buddies.  😁

On 5/13/2023 at 9:00 AM, rickeieio said:

Carl, don't be giving away all my secrets.

Kevin and I talked yesterday.  I suggested applying heat to the offending fastener, but he was apprehensive about using fire near the tank.  And justifiably so.  If you're uncomfortable and/or unfamiliar with something like that, let a red-neck like me do it.  So, he took it to a local guy who got 'er done.  A few dollars for peace of mind is not a bad thing.

Rick, you are absolutely correct.  Confession:  In the dead of winter I was in my detached garage preparing to bend a piece of steel bar.  Had it in the Vice, pulled out the old bernz a matic torch and light it.  Well hadn’t screwed the nozzle down well and the whole thing erupted in flame.  Now I’m in the back end of a garage with the door down, holding a fire bomb!  So being somewhat intelligent (debatable), I throw it on the floor and the damn thing starts to roll under my Smart car which was parked in the garage.  I managed to get to the garage door opener, open the door, and sweep the bomb out into the driveway before complete destruction.  Point of fact, though, a water hose and fire extinguisher will not extinguish a rushing propane bottle fire.  Now before anyone asks why not just turn the knob off. Yeah right, the knob was completely melted off.

Moral to this confession!  If under a truck in a cramped space with flammables close at hand?  Better have made peace with your maker or pay someone to do it for you that is experienced.  Like Kevin, I’ll choose the later.  And Rick, don’t expect Susan to do it, lol!

“ Thanks Rick for your suggestions!!”

Kevin, Rick has plenty of suggestions for work that Susan can do.  That’s why she’s the experienced one.  😜

28 minutes ago, runaway parents said:

Thank you so much you made my day. If you're going to the WCR this year we need to get together. I'd like to meet you. We got our new gearbox in Today and all I have to do is in install it and everything's back to normal. Thanks for the great thoughts we appreciated  them.

 

Sorry also for your misfortune and I agree totally with Corey.  Lots of folks won’t talk about their mistakes but that’s how we all learn.

Other enhancements were, as I said, squaring and truing all brackets so that there were no asymmetric forces exerted on the dog bones.  All bushings and spacers were redone with a special HDPE to very snug tolerances.  Also all rods were replaced with chrome moly steel.  (Folks should know, GeorgiaHybrid is a mechanical engineer and his business did steel detailing for amongst other things, nuclear power plants.  The man knows his steels and materials).  Finally stop brackets were added so if a set screw came out, the rods remained secure (redundancy).  The below pic shows that and also shows the fore and aft thrust bearing was replaced full span to snug tolerance with the same HDPE.  Cost was just shy of $1000 for these changes but now am confident my hitch will outlive me.  Also please don’t take any of this post as dissing anyone or any company.  I just had some trouble with my original hitch that I never wanted to reoccur.

22 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Can you post a pic of what this is?  I am currently upgrading to a TSLB3 and am interested in this modificatioon/enhancement.

In the first pic you will see the handle mods.  Easier to get to and use.  Also note the two holes near the attachment where you can drop a pin through as a second stop behind the jaw block.  I use a PTO pin from Tractor Supply so it won’t come out.  The second picture is an attempt to show you the block welded on where the pin drops through.  All these mods were done a a professional machine shop but were GeorgiaHybrids ideas.  Also had hitch squared and trued and other upgrades.  It’s pretty much bulletproof now IMHO.

I have done it about 10 years ago. I jacked the tank up with a hydraulic jack just enough to get the strap off and “cribbed it” with jack stands and 2x4s  front and back to act as cradle. You don’t want the tank to slip off jack and fall especially if full of fuel. Changed strap and reversed process. It was surprisingly easy. On recall I think I waited til tank was low on fuel to do this project just as added safety factor.  BTW on further recall, I used two jacks and a span of 2x6 to jack it up to spread the load. 

11 minutes ago, rpsinc said:

Can you post a pic of what this is?  I am currently upgrading to a TSLB3 and am interested in this modificatioon/enhancement.

I’ll try to go to truck and get some pics for you in the next couple of days. 

2 hours ago, runaway parents said:

This is very true.

I was making a general statement not directed to your incident. In no way was I saying you or wife were slamming into hitch. Just saying in my many years have seen a lot of “hitch slamming “, lol. 

When I did the GeorgiaHybrid redo of my hitch, I added a Henegar handle with an extension that allows a second pin behind the jaw block.  I not only watch my handle “snap” into place, I put in the second locking pin before my tug test.  As a former commercial pilot, Rick is correct.  Do your hook up/ unhook in the same sequence every time and if distracted start over. In airplanes we always used a checklist because missing something major might not give you a second chance.

As an aside I don’t think you have to “slam” the pin into the jaws to get a positive lock.  If the jaws are together and the primary pin snaps behind the block it should mean the block is between the jaws. Am I wrong?  I see people all the time slamming their pins into the hitch and just thinking that can’t be good in the long run.

6 hours ago, Cotreker said:

Nice fix looks good have seen a few trucks with that applied.  What brand did you use?  My clear coat also started releasing last year.  Roof and hood got repainted.

U-Pol Raptor on bumper, moon roof, mirrors in typical bed liner texture. Hood texture same product but more like rock guard texture like on front of fiver. 

On 4/28/2023 at 10:57 AM, Cotreker said:

Mike this turned out nice.

My clear coat has peeled in several areas.  Repainting vs. bed liner became a non issue.  Bed liner much cheaper and looks acceptable on my older truck.  
Bumper, mirrors, hood, moon roof.

12 hours ago, aknavy said:

This Facebook group has alot of Volvo mechanics in it that will diagnose your symptoms, tell you how much it should cost to repair, and look up part numbers.  You just need to provide a VIN  with your request.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/377877049059772

Thanks.  Went over to dealer yesterday and they matched online price.  They were the 034 bags.  In person, I’ve always had good service and prices with my local dealer.  Trouble is it’s a sixty mile round trip.   It’s just always an issue over the phone..get put on terminal hold or disconnected multiple times when asking for a part number.  I know they’re busy and need sales but wish there was some other resources.

I put those on mine also per Parrformance recommendations. Work great. 

20 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Have you tried googling "firestone airbags"?  They may have an application chart.

 

Thanks Jay and Rick.

12 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

Try calling my home Volvo shop: 330.453.3868. They've been about the only shop willing to give out part numbers. You might tell them you need the number so when you come in, you can save time by just asking for that part number. Or, you might consider ordering directing from them. Good luck! Jay

Thanks Jay.

Having a hard time getting correct part # for rear airbags.  Dealer reluctant to give out part #.  Class 8 Truck Parts  says 20733034 but looking at Amazon- Class 8 Truck Parts and Premium Truck Parts USA say 20505399.  Anyone have the number?

13 hours ago, Nigel said:

Happy Birthday Carl.

11 hours ago, Av8r3400 said:

Happy Birthday, Carl!

Thanks 

11 hours ago, NeverEasy said:

Carl, This is how simple it is to add a Wireless Remote Controller to your setup.  The receiver could be mounted in your solenoid cover but I would not.  You only need 4 wires.  Use a standard set of 4-pin flat trailer wire connectors. Attach the mostly female wires end to the contactor (always use white for ground on both ends).  Splice the wires on the mostly male end to the wireless receiver wires.  Then when not in use, unplug the receiver and store it.  I do recommend disconnecting it when not in use.  The receivers are very common and someone near you night gain control of your winch.   You can still use your cabled remote. 

The receivers are all over Amazon.  I currently have 4 of them installed on various systems and oddly enough, none interfere with the others.  

https://www.amazon.com/Wsays-Wireless-Control-Compatible-Recovery/dp/B09VG8XHF9/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3PBWXHMZKYI1Y&keywords=wireless+winch+remote&qid=1682292237&sprefix=wireless+winch+%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-16

Ignore that "Public" wire on the drawing.  It just means it should already be installed by the customer.

Argh!  I just looked at Amazon for those 4-pin trailer connectors.  All the ones I have used in the past have the odd pin (covered or not covered) as white.  I see that some of them are green which has always been right turn in the past.  

Thanks Chet.

Denver,

Glad to see you carrying on.  Wish we could attend but our family obligations prevent it.  

1 minute ago, rickeieio said:

I don't see any blood......

I’m not done yet.  It’s coming!😜