SuiteSuccess

32 minutes ago, Nigel said:

Carl I’ve seen that code before but I’d be surprised if yours is the same.  My truck had an e-log communication system similar to a Qualcomm.  There was a t connector on the communication port and the cable went under the floor mat to the transmitter.  When they removed the transmitter the cable was cut and the end was stuffed under the mat.  After a couple of years of stepping on it the end developed a short and threw a code.  The repair was to remove the t connection and pull out the cable that ran under the floor.  I also saw a video some years ago with someone having a similar problem with a Volvo,  his solution was to remove the Qualcomm fuse from the fuse box in the centre of the dash.  Let’s hope you get lucky and it’s this simple.

 

Nigel

Nigel, glad to hear from you.  Hope all is well.  As you might imagine I’ve been YouTubing and iPadding a lot.  Just found that video.  I have the same cable and setup.  Mine had Qualcomm and I once pulled back the mat and was going to take that cable loose but didn’t really know where and if I should mess with it.  Actually asked Greg Shields at an ECR and he didn’t know about it either.  Do you happen to know where the t connector is located and where to disconnect?

Below are pics of bare cab floor.  Cable runs in tread groove.  Second picture is under passenger dash with cable connections.  Will check this theory out tomorrow.

Update, replaced ring connectors at battery on small wires (assume to ECM and other modules), crawled under truck searching for anything loose or broken…no joy.  Still same issue.  On bright side ( if there is one) got a quote on towing the 25 miles to dealer..a mere $750 but I was expecting twice that amount.  Hopefully something simple and relatively inexpensive.  Also on a good note, my Davco refurb seems to be performing as advertised.

In my issue with my truck recently, I replaced several ring terminals at the battery (12 gauge wire size).  Fortunately I had 5 nice Ancor heat shrink connectors but this is what I took off. I assume they are factory and were heat shrunk which obviously outlived it’s purpose as you can see from the corrosion.  However, the originals are copper, large contact surfaces, and quality. Anyone know where they might be available and if not, is Ancor the best, or Wirefy, or suggestions.  Ancor pricey!

2 hours ago, Deezl Smoke said:

 If you have a good relationship with your dealer, they would print a pin out diagram for you from the manual, that shows the pins with voltages. It is a simple thing to do, but for sure can be daunting to think about as it is dealing with a very expensive ecm to replace should things go wrong.

 Low voltage, or many loss of signal issues at the ecm will/can cause random and inconsistent dash codes. Some of them show up on a obd hand held scanner, but many do not. And to make matters worse, you can have these issues one day, and a few days later if the weather changes, the issues can go away.

 On the Davco. This is a youtube link to how the Davco works.

 If you would rather not follow links, youtube search "how the davco fuel filter works" and you will see a video put up by Davco technology. This video will explain to you how the system works and why the davco bowl is clear to view the fuel level inside.

Ok latest truck update. Went over and completely redid the Davco.  Interestingly the check ball on the intake had a broken spring and the cage was cracked, so glad I replaced it.  That's why my fuel level remained low.  It was draining back into the tank.  Also saw A LOT of gunk in the bottom of the bowl so completely emptied it and cleaned that all out.  Found half the check ball spring in the bottom.  Was very fine almost like dust not stringy like previous bacteria/algae that was cleaned out when I bought the truck.  I also run biocide in my fuel every fill up.  Refilled the bowl, replaced all O rings, new filter, new top cap.  Will start for couple seconds then run rough then die.  Interesting still considering prime issue.  I can pump the manual pump several times and it will be soft, then gets hard.  Seems to me that means may still be air in line.  One more try to get wires to starter checked then off to dealer next week if no solution.

41 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

There's your red flag.  The fuel level should never drop.  Only way that happens is if air is leaking into filter.

Today going to redo Davco. After pondering most of the night, just going to change out ball valve, replace filter, O rings and top cap since I already have the parts. If it works good for me. If it doesn’t, points more to the electrical issue and that requires more expertise than I presently have although YouTube may help. Ran across a video yesterday discussing how to check the voltage on the modules if I can locate them. Couldn’t hurt to try.  My time is not costing me anything and I’ve got plenty of it. 

8 hours ago, Deezl Smoke said:

 A lot of people like to wash their engine compartment and when doing so, especially an engine with some miles on it, accidentally get the water too close to the ecu/ecm connections. It takes very little to cause condensation to appear on the pin connections, and/or get a bit of water by the seal if the connector has been removed a time or two.

 If the power pin at the connector has any corrosion, or oxidation, either from moisture or heat with a slack connection tolerance, that pin can not carry the full voltage needed. No matter how new or clean the batteries, the compromised connection can not carry the volts nor amps needed for the ecm to operate.

 Check vehicle ecu, check brake ecu, and check light module. All at the same time? I dunno, but once you're done with the rest of the connections, I'd almost bet the power pin is'nt carrying proper voltage at the ecm.

Voltage to the ECM has been suggested once before by someone on a phone conversation.  I really don’t have the know how to diagnose that issue so going to try everything else I can safely do myself and then if no success…off to dealer.  One bit of good news (if you call it that), I priced the tow to the dealer and it was quoted half of what I thought it would cost.  Oh well, one or two more days of getting greasy and a little blood then decision time.  Thanks everyone for the help.

4 hours ago, Sculptor said:

I went through similar fun after replacing fuel filters and separator.  Jack told me 120 pumps minimum. I did that and worked like a charm. Until then it was very easy to pump but only got hard up around 120 or so. 

Mine is priming after 4-5 pumps and becomes hard at that time.

(BTW folks we’re talking mechanical issues so no off color jokes.  Know my friends and acquaintances too well🤪).

3 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Carl,  silly question, but have you checked your fuel tanks?  if someone borrowed all your fuel, you'd be sucking air.

I have fuel.  Storage area is gated with security cameras.  Never a theft issue so far.  This investigation procedure is time consuming and hard work, but boy it’s fun getting greasy and leaving a little blood here and there.  BTW gonna change check valve in Davco at next filter change.  They can be an issue.

Ok new wrinkle in the saga.  First took all the connections offf battery, cleaned and made sure all was well.  Took all grounds off ground block on firewall and cleaned, cleaned all weather pak connections I could get to.  This afternoon gonna tackle getting grounds off of starter and cleaning.  Now to the new wrinkle.  My Davco is in the way of the starter but noticed fuel level is below rim of Davco.  Filter was changed last year and was above rim at servicing.  Could that be the culprit?  Sucking air and resulting in the module confusions?  Anyway gonna add some diesel to Davco and see if level stays the same.  I have new caps and o ring already as well as ball valve so can fix 

Thanks everyone.  Plan on spending today at the truck.  Will let you know if it’s fruitful.

Daryl,

Electronics cleaner and q-tips best way?

11 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

It could be corrosion in any of the harness connections, in addition to the resistor. Time to hit the wiring diagrams in the Resource Guide. Good luck. Assuming the batteries are charged and all in good condition.

Batteries charged and 6 mos old   Thanks. 

23 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

What did you touch?

Nothing.  Started truck to hitch up.  It aired up fine.  Idled fine.  Released brake to back up and started running very rough and died.  All three messages popped up.  Checked all grounds at battery.  Went home to think, back to truck and when I turned on key, got the J 1939 message.  Guess I need to check the resistors but not sure I know where or how.

More to the story.  Went back over to truck and engine, brake, light module all starting with “SAE J 1939 data link communication error.”  Cannot get DID to download faults while trying to do diagnostics.  Any ideas?

Was hooking up to start a trip and truck started fine, aired up, then shut down and got these three messages.  Checked battery grounds, recycled key six times, and tried starting.  Ran rough for couple of seconds then shut down.  Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks folks.

Love it Larry.  Congratulations.

Changing reservoir tank and coolant in my 2006 VNL 780 with Volvo D 12 engine.  Mine uses the red extended life.  Anyone know what the coolant capacity is on this engine?  Having a hard time finding it online and can’t locate my owner’s manual quickly.  I’m thinking 11 gallons but not sure.

13 hours ago, aknavy said:

Mixed reviews on my first use of them.  My truck won't go into gear - I suspect it's the clutch adjustment or clutch brake.  The first answer from them for a tow was "It's not attached to the trailer, it's not covered."  After an hour and a couple calls and escalation to a supervisor, and asking them how it's not covered by the "all personal vehicles" in the policy coverages, they changed their verdict.  Then the answer was that we'll tow it to the nearest qualified service center, which is a dealer with poor reviews.  They allowed me to change the destination to another shop that was 2 miles further away.  So, I'm now awaiting a verdict on the repair - hopefully I'm right about the clutch adjustment and I get an inexpensive repair and get the truck back tomorrow.

Just a personal observation and my dealings with Good Sams and other service contract companies they are more than eager for you to pay your premiums but less than willing to cover their agreed services.

12 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Life is good

Yes it is.  Especially if you’ve got good camping buddies.  😁

On 5/13/2023 at 9:00 AM, rickeieio said:

Carl, don't be giving away all my secrets.

Kevin and I talked yesterday.  I suggested applying heat to the offending fastener, but he was apprehensive about using fire near the tank.  And justifiably so.  If you're uncomfortable and/or unfamiliar with something like that, let a red-neck like me do it.  So, he took it to a local guy who got 'er done.  A few dollars for peace of mind is not a bad thing.

Rick, you are absolutely correct.  Confession:  In the dead of winter I was in my detached garage preparing to bend a piece of steel bar.  Had it in the Vice, pulled out the old bernz a matic torch and light it.  Well hadn’t screwed the nozzle down well and the whole thing erupted in flame.  Now I’m in the back end of a garage with the door down, holding a fire bomb!  So being somewhat intelligent (debatable), I throw it on the floor and the damn thing starts to roll under my Smart car which was parked in the garage.  I managed to get to the garage door opener, open the door, and sweep the bomb out into the driveway before complete destruction.  Point of fact, though, a water hose and fire extinguisher will not extinguish a rushing propane bottle fire.  Now before anyone asks why not just turn the knob off. Yeah right, the knob was completely melted off.

Moral to this confession!  If under a truck in a cramped space with flammables close at hand?  Better have made peace with your maker or pay someone to do it for you that is experienced.  Like Kevin, I’ll choose the later.  And Rick, don’t expect Susan to do it, lol!

“ Thanks Rick for your suggestions!!”

Kevin, Rick has plenty of suggestions for work that Susan can do.  That’s why she’s the experienced one.  😜

28 minutes ago, runaway parents said:

Thank you so much you made my day. If you're going to the WCR this year we need to get together. I'd like to meet you. We got our new gearbox in Today and all I have to do is in install it and everything's back to normal. Thanks for the great thoughts we appreciated  them.

 

Sorry also for your misfortune and I agree totally with Corey.  Lots of folks won’t talk about their mistakes but that’s how we all learn.

Other enhancements were, as I said, squaring and truing all brackets so that there were no asymmetric forces exerted on the dog bones.  All bushings and spacers were redone with a special HDPE to very snug tolerances.  Also all rods were replaced with chrome moly steel.  (Folks should know, GeorgiaHybrid is a mechanical engineer and his business did steel detailing for amongst other things, nuclear power plants.  The man knows his steels and materials).  Finally stop brackets were added so if a set screw came out, the rods remained secure (redundancy).  The below pic shows that and also shows the fore and aft thrust bearing was replaced full span to snug tolerance with the same HDPE.  Cost was just shy of $1000 for these changes but now am confident my hitch will outlive me.  Also please don’t take any of this post as dissing anyone or any company.  I just had some trouble with my original hitch that I never wanted to reoccur.

22 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Can you post a pic of what this is?  I am currently upgrading to a TSLB3 and am interested in this modificatioon/enhancement.

In the first pic you will see the handle mods.  Easier to get to and use.  Also note the two holes near the attachment where you can drop a pin through as a second stop behind the jaw block.  I use a PTO pin from Tractor Supply so it won’t come out.  The second picture is an attempt to show you the block welded on where the pin drops through.  All these mods were done a a professional machine shop but were GeorgiaHybrids ideas.  Also had hitch squared and trued and other upgrades.  It’s pretty much bulletproof now IMHO.