SuiteSuccess

2 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

The only spare parts I carry are fuel filters, serpentine belts, intercooler hose and oil and oil filters plus a gallon of coolant. Those can be taken out by bad fuel or road debris and only take a few minutes to fix on the side of the road.

I do carry a good tool kit with me to fix those issues noted above and for more serious problems once I have been moved to a safe area. How big that tool kit is depends on the skill level of the owner however and what I carry is not for everyone.

“A good tool kit”!  Now that’s the understatement of the century.  Between Charlie Lord and David you could rebuild a truck from ground up. 😊

13 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

   Interesting subject?

Again see the OTR video I posted on your other thread.  Doesn’t seem that difficult for labor.  Programming is the issue.

6 hours ago, Deezl Smoke said:

  Most ecm's will need perimeters installed. But it's still better to have, rather can be better to have, the ecm that can be programmed, rather than no ecm available. A lot of techs have the capacity to do the programming, or even the instal, but they all need an ecm that is in good repair to do so.

 Amazon is awesome. The things one can find today.....amazing.

 Then the need to find a place on the rig for said storage. ECM's are rugged as they mount in a very inhospitable location. But they don't like being dropped or having heavy items layed on the connector inserts. That feeling you get when you know you have the part you need because you thought ahead, only to find it broken when you retrieve it for the need.............

OTR shows installation in Volvo in this video. Seems fairly straightforward.

17 hours ago, Frogman said:

Hi Folks,

I have another rookie question. My question is about dash warning light. I the center of my instrument cluster I have the word " CHECK " show up in yellow. Right now I do not know what I should check. I need some guidance. My truck is a 2012 Volvo 610 with an I shift transmission. Just last week I put in 4 new batteries. At that time everything seemed to be ok. Another question or too. When the truck is running, what should be the voltage be ? How do I find what codes are causing the "CHECK" light to come on.

Thank you for any help or ideas,

Does it stay on? Or extinguish when air pressure hits 60 psi?  If stays on use stalk to find “vehicle messages” and it should tell you what to check.  

14 minutes ago, Deezl Smoke said:

 It's a heck of a conundrum. Even if you do not have the skills needed nor the tools to replace an ecm, you can hire them. But if your rig is of the age and models that ecm availability is scarce, or worse, then maybe it would be a good idea if you plan to keep the rig for some time.

 If one does possess a spare ecm then comes the issue of how to store it proper. It'll need to be kept clean and dry, in a place that it will not likely get dropped, or something dropped on it.

 Might even be a good idea to have it installed on the engine to make sure it works proper for your engine setup before storing it.

 Most of us keep belts, and other spare parts in the box. Funny thing is, the majority of the parts we all keep on hand, are parts that are available anywhere. So,......an ecm is something to consider. Just need to think about it a bit before the investment.

On the Volvo engines, they require programming so some place with computer capabilities (i.e dealer) still involved.  As far as storage, sealed Mylar bag with couple of oxygen absorbers would work or simple vacuum food saver with couple of absorbers.  All available on Amazon.

22 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

     Darryl got me to thinking about fuel treatment. I will check in local stores to see if they have any on their shelves.

Take a look at this product to consider for your arsenal. 
https://petroleumservicecompany.com/power-service-clear-diesel/?sku=9264-06&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&gclid=CjwKCAjwrranBhAEEiwAzbhNtXeHYs9CoiZq7h2I122guuRq1-wAJbRZYBU0k4OIs75DCBLZ-C-KuxoCuhcQAvD_BwE

Cold will inhibit the growth of the algae but will not kill it.  Just goes dormant until sunlight. There’s algae and bacteria present in the polar ice.  Remember though, the “slime” is a combination of BACTERIA & ALGAE and it grows mostly at the diesel water interface.  I have the Davco and can periodically drain off any accumulated water but that doesn’t help with any water that may be sitting in the tank.  I trust Rick’s opinion on most things but for me a $30 bottle of biocide is cheap insurance against what Vern went through.

https://askabiologist.asu.edu/explore/frozen-life#:~:text=The Arctic ecosystem is home,large amount of food available.

7 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

When I junked my Volvo (engine blew up and I couldn't justify $20K inframe on 20 year old truck) I took out the prototype hitch out and eventually junked it too. When I took it apart the airbags were perfectly serviceable, dusty but no rubber checking or other issues. In an ET the bags are well out of the elements and sun which is the worst for rubber.

Thanks.

Vern,

Someone (maybe it was you) was trying to come up with a little suction “straw” several years ago just to suck that material up.  Never saw the finished product.  I do like your polishing apparatus that you built.

Henry,

Not trying to hijack the thread but how often should the bags be replaced because of aging?

I’ve run Biokleen in my truck every fill.  Stuff is expensive but gives me piece of mind.  Still saying that, wish I could get my tanks polished.  I’ve got a thin line of black “goop” on the bottoms.

Vern,

Who did the ECM rebuild?

On 8/14/2023 at 10:47 PM, NeverEasy said:

You did not say what you did to diagnose the problem as specifically, the fan. The latest schematic I have is for a 2007 so I can't give you fuse and relay numbers.

I believe you need to look at a couple of things.  First, I think you need to look at  electrical supply.  It would be best to pull off the connector near the air/electric solenoid and check for resistance on the solenoid.  My guess would be something like 10-20 ohms. If it seems good, find a couple of jumper wires jump one side to ground and the other with a 12 volt source (use the DC wire at the alternator.  Start the truck.  It should not matter which pin you use for ground as it is just a solenoid.  However, if one of the wires is white, hook the ground wire to it.  If the fan kicks in then it is an electrical issue.  Start looking for a blown fuse or a bad relay.  

Second you want to look at air supply.  You might be able to bypass the solenoid and feed air directly to the fan.

Good luck,  Chet

 

Craigjanelle,

Listen to this man.  If it’s electrical he can help you fix it or modify it.  😊

dbrandon,

What a concise and informative answer to the question.  Kudos and thank you for that.  I’m going to archive it.

31 minutes ago, ddm502001 said:

Some can be permanent, others, a temporary basis.

Yep, I don’t disagree. 🙂

13 hours ago, ddm502001 said:

Slide the clear on just to drain, remove after drain complete, problem solved

Considered that but my nature to solving a problem is permanence.  Don’t like a lot of moving parts to keep up with, lol.  Also satisfies my OCD. 😊

22 hours ago, craigjanelle said:

Not sure what a Sidewinder key is, but, on our '12 Volvo 670 I found a match for our key @ Lowes. It was labeled 19r1 (Chrysler product) or a 19r2. Had them make a couple keys for me & both worked in ignition & door. Good Luck-Safe Travels.

Same for my 2006.  Made several spares at Lowe’s.  Didn’t know there were different styles of Volvo keys.

8 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

Always use fuel line hose for any rubber fuel line applications. You never want your rubber to break in a critical situation....😉

Point noted.

It’s drainage only.  Not inline fuel hose. Suspect it will probably last as long as I need it and if it deteriorates, so be it.  For further explanation, my barbed connection was 1/2” and none of the auto supply had 1/2” i.d. fuel line.  Will check at NAPA today.  I’m also cheap, don’t want to go spend another $10 for a brass barbed connector with smaller diameter.

Final solution to close the thread. Drain valve is 1/2” -14 NPT.  Found a barbed fitting in brass at HD.  I originally put on 1/2” i.d. clear vinyl hose and ran along the rail but after researching melting point of the vinyl tubing felt engine heat “might” become an issue so switching to 1/2” i.d. heater hose for the run.

Ok Davco confirmed on drain valve both male and female threads are 1/2”-14 NPT

16 minutes ago, Deezl Smoke said:

Link to davco drain valve on davco's site.

 Or, google "davco drain valve threads.

Appears to be 1/2" NPT. I'd use 1/2" hose. Any  hydraulic store should be able to make up a short single braid or even textile braid low pressure hose with 1/2" npt ends easy enough.

Thanks.  Yeah, I just found that same page.  I found the 382 specs page but it didn’t list drain size.  Parts page showed it.  I’ve got some braided fuel hose so probably just barbed fitting and hose clamp.  Wife doesn’t like me getting “greasy “ ever time we’re leaving on trip by reaching between the rails, lol.

I have the Davco fuel filter pictured below.  Normally I hold a Solo cup under it to drain water because of its location on my frame.  Want to add a fitting and hose to make it more accessible.  Has anyone done this? And do you know what size barbed fitting to buy?  Also is it male or female fitting?

I run Toyo steers and Cooper drives.  Used to run Goodyears.  Have no complaints about the Toyos and Coopers.  First tier brands (Michelin, Goodyear, Bridgestone) would be my choice if I was putting a lot of miles on them yearly.  However, for my needs, second tier (Coopers, BF Goodrich, Toyos, Hankook, Sailun, etc.) should be just fine.  Of course this is my opinion only.

Just so we are clear so everyone understands. “Tow Insurance “ is not an insurance in the strictest sense unless it is an add on to an existing policy. It is a service contract if bought through a secondary agent like Good Sam or Coachnet much like appliance service contracts such as Home Shield.  That is important because the service contracts although governed by insurance regulators have less stringent requirements.   Just be sure with any product get in writing what will or will not be covered. Plus they place the burden on you to keep up with their policy changes unlike insurance which must notify you. Important difference.  Not familiar with Runaway Parents suggestion of Insurance Solutions. Would be interested in what they offer.   Please note my remarks are my opinions based on my own experiences and research.