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SuiteSuccess

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Posts posted by SuiteSuccess

  1. 57 minutes ago, NeverEasy said:

    Carl, I have seen where the recommendation is to hook both + and - connections to the center most point of the batteries.  However, I don't see the need if the batteries have a good connection to the bus.

    Question, what size inverter (watts) will you install.  For a true calculation of current, add 10% to that for the internal workings of the inverter (overhead).  Use that to calculate the amps with the formula Current equals watts divided by voltage.  I = P/V.   I have found that most installations max out the size of the inverter due to cable size needed to support anything bigger than 1500 watts..  I = 1515/12 volts = 126.26 amps.   

    The length of the cable run is very important.  Mount the inverter as close to the battery source as you can.  You must calculate the length using both the positive cable length + the negative cable length.  Measure in meters to use the following chart.

    This is a good site to calculate cable size needed:  DC Cable Size Calculator | Fabhabs.  

    As an example of using anything bigger than a 1500 watt inverter, let's say you are going to install a 2400 watt inverter.  The max current is 202 amps.  Put that in the above chart with a 1 meter cable length and the chart will show you that there is no cable big enough to support that installation.

    At one of the Kansas HDT rallies, I was asked to look at a 2400 Watt inverter install.  I found that the installr used a 4-AWG 2 meters (4 meters total) away from the batteries.  To protect the cables, a 40 amp fuse was put inline thereby effectively limiting the output of the inverter to (P=I x V) or 40 x 12 = 480 watts.  The size of the inverter than became a 480 watt inverter.  Shit!

     

     

     

    Chet, 

    I have a Xantrex Freedom 1800 HF which I installed years ago with 3/0 cable and short runs.  I connected to battery 4 positive and battery 1 negative but really had no good facts to support that configuration. I’m putting four new batteries in (one battery died [tested] all four only 22 mos old) and was questioning whether my connection configuration might have been a culprit. BTW that battery was #4 and had little electrolyte while all others had plenty of fluid. Also I’m fused properly. (You helped me choose the size years ago.)

  2. 1 hour ago, Randyretired said:

    Connect to opposite ends.  + on one battery and the - on the far battery.  Be sure to wire and fuse properly.  Short of buss bars this will be best for balancing the batteries.

    So you’re saying the latter option.  Positive on battery 1 and negative on battery 4 or vice versa. That makes the most sense for balanced charging and the way I’ve always done it but really couldn’t explain the REASON I do it that way. 

  3. Okay need someone to explain the electronic theory (in simple terms) as to optimal way to hook up inverter/charger.  So most HDTs have 3 or 4 twelve volt batteries connected in parallel.  Assume appropriate size cable for the “runs” to the inverter from the batteries.  Also assume the  + (positive) from battery 1 is jumped to the + of battery 2 , and so on for 3 and 4.  The - (negative) is the same completing the parallel connection of the batteries.  Should the + cable run to the inverter/ charger be connected to battery 1 + and the - cable run to the inverter/charger to the - on battery 1 OR should it be + on 1 and - on battery 4?  If the latter is this because of resistance in the jumpers from battery to battery?  It seems to me + to 1 and - to 4 makes the most efficient configuration for inverting and charging especially since the first configuration when charging might result in small voltage loss to the furthest battery in the string causing unbalanced charging?  I’m also assuming the charger has enough amperage to charge four batteries.

  4. 18 hours ago, bags said:

    Carl, we had a generator installed 3 years ago and have been glad to have it. My recommendation is go with who ever can come service it and have a backup tech. I put in a Champion 14.4 k and it works fine for us. They also come with load shedding equipment. I just ran my usage #s and went from there. 

    On a different topic would you be kind enough to share the info on your air line checking tool? Are any of the less expensive ones any good, etc.

    Thanks

    John Bagley

    If you’re talking about my truck airline tool it is the Inficon Whisper.  It’s pricey but works well.  I have never tried anything cheaper.

    https://www.inficon.com/en/products/leak-detectors/whisper

  5. 18 hours ago, bags said:

    Carl, we had a generator installed 3 years ago and have been glad to have it. My recommendation is go with who ever can come service it and have a backup tech. I put in a Champion 14.4 k and it works fine for us. They also come with load shedding equipment. I just ran my usage #s and went from there. 

    On a different topic would you be kind enough to share the info on your air line checking tool? Are any of the less expensive ones any good, etc.

    Thanks

    John Bagley

    John,

    This is what I bought and it works great.  Just read the instructions carefully.

    https://www.amazon.com/Natural-Detector-Portable-Combustible-Explosive/dp/B07FSVCSSL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6QAb4ioobtDezIhpQ4LFT0PXa5lCL7WysfS4wqlU1JO121OdR5Vv2CvQfxDM9MNJaM6xrQJuCJyEKo_wmFFLD3tTwUNKT8JF4tEela7Rm5byaf2_3OKFNYCtmYEOWF4Qi8qwOGWGM1Q_eQzsFmird9Dj0VEPlHG1Efhd4exxGqwtaqlc5qTsUEM8d_uC91ZUJbQeuEZxQNNN_JVpFUhuvzRnRVkMfnA0hr4eaAmII9A_2AuudgnH5G34d6yr2Zvo1kANZcM0m-DOkcWJkxSkTLY94kNfKI60zeV90hpociw.wUo3kbmINucJAVDmMMNIEU-5SxiG0gIkVGNM-2-SCdw&dib_tag=se&hvadid=616931139346&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9013361&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13045725028721749059&hvtargid=kwd-30334783&hydadcr=24633_13611805&keywords=propane%2Bleak%2Bdetector&qid=1708435766&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

  6. Cotrekers post about exhaust pipes reminded me of an educational post I kept forgetting to make.  First to a story.  Several years ago we were making the trip from East Tennessee to the National Rally in Kansas.  For the majority of the trip the wife and I were slightly nauseated with a dull headache.  Thought it was travel fatigue (stupid me, my career was in the medical field).  Upon arriving and milling around my truck I found the bottom of my truck muffler was completely rusted out and putting two and two together realized that we had been inhaling carbon monoxide while traveling.  Thank heavens we never slept or stayed in the truck for extended periods while idling or we definitely would have had much more exposure.  Muffler was replaced and all was well on return home…no symptoms!  The moral to the story is ever since that incident I carry a carbon monoxide sensor in the upper bin of my truck to alert me.  Cheap insurance especially if your truck is older and at risk for exhaust leaks.  Put it high as CO is lighter than normal air and will accumulate at the top of the cab.

  7. 6 hours ago, rickeieio said:

    (sigh)  Just talked to the service dep't at Kenworth, and it appears the truck is almost buttoned up.  But, the mechanic on this job is off until Monday.

    Apparently, it was the oil pump, which is not considered a major component, so not covered under the extended warranty.  Total bill is about $5,700.  Of course they found several little things to fix while in there, like replacing some plastic coolant fittings with brass, $746, replace driveshaft (removed for towing), $194, initial diagnostics, $900, shop supplies, hazardous waste, etc.  

    This is not a cheap game we're playing.

    Ha, wait until you have an ECM go out.  Nope, not a cheap game.

  8. 11 hours ago, rickeieio said:

    Forget spending mountains of money, and buy a pto genny for the back of your Kubota.  Have an electrician fix you up with a drop cord and transfer switch.  Way cheaper than the other suggestions, though not as fancy.

    Elaborate please.

  9. 1 hour ago, Larry Burkett said:

    We added a whole house generator a year ago, and could not believe how many time the power actually goes out in the night, whether a minute or an hour. We talked about it a lot, then when we were out traveling, the power wen tout for 4 days, and the kids unloaded the fridge and freezer. Last summer the power was out 3 days and it was nice to have all the comforts of home. We have a 14 kw generator that will run everything at the same time.

    Thanks. I assume it is propane?  Everything I’m reading is saying 2-5 gallons per hour at full capacity but less if not at full load. What manufacturer did you choose?

  10. 2 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

    Add a 5,000 or 10,000 gallon diesel tank to the backyard and an extension onto the garage with a 50KW gen set inside of it. That should hold you for a bit.... 😁

    Somehow I suspect you may already have something like this, lol. And of course the tank is red with SnapOn painted on the side. Believe me I would love to have a diesel tank in my back yard area but don’t want to be lynched by the HOA. 

  11. Thanks for the input. Nigel, I have watched that video on wiring the furnace and it’s definitely worth considering. I have a 3500 kw gas powered generator for emergency and I store about 20 gallons of gas during the winter for “just in case”.  If not used, it’s rotated into my cars. As for the propane, my tank is buried so heating it is not really an issue. The essential items I would like to run would be the fridge, the HVAC furnace, and some lights. I’m thinking a 22.5 kw unit might suffice. BTW truck and trailer at a storage facility so no help for solving power needs. 

  12. I have long considered adding a propane home generator to our house for use in power outages.  Our HVAC is hybrid heat pump/ propane and with the recent arctic storm here in Tennessee it rekindled the issue. Thank heavens we weathered the storm without any lengthy outages unlike last year when we had several days of rolling blackouts. For those of you that have knowledge or experience with such systems would you recommend?  Size?  Justify cost? Manufacturer?  Our home sq ft is approximately 3600 sq ft.  BTW our propane tank is a buried 1000 gal. (Yes we went big, lol.)

  13. 1 hour ago, jenandjon said:

    Does wind chill effect fuel jelling?

    No!  Only the ambient temperature.  For example wind chill will not freeze water in a container if the outside temperature is above 32* but the wind chill might be 15*.

  14. 9 hours ago, Deezl Smoke said:

     Seems to depend on the design of the def system as to what quality def is tolerable.

     Our 2 pieces of farm equipment new enough to require def, are much more forgiving than my Peterbilt rv. Once jugs of def have sat here long enough, I dump them into the farm equipment and have not had an issue. But I have to run fresh def (I have found a few suppliers that sell enough volume to never have it on the shelf for but a few days) in the Pete with it's Cummins scr. I have heard far more complaints with def issues in Cummins and Paccar than Detroit or Volvo. But that could be a local thing, I'm at the west coast.

    I’m not a chemist but Rick is correct.  DEF is 32.75% urea and and 67.25% deionized water.  Doesn’t matter if it’s the Blue stuff or Walmart brand in my opinion.  You can even purchase urea crystals and make your own if you were so inclined.  The only way I would think it could “go bad” is if evaporation changed that ratio and the solution concentrated.  At some point with evaporation you would begin to see crystal formation so if that occurred would definitely not use it. BTW you can test with one of these.

    https://www.amazon.com/Antifreeze-Coolant-Refractometer-Automobile-Windshield/dp/B07DLDZFJX/ref=asc_df_B07DLDZFJX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312184309594&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2222720488000561698&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013361&hvtargid=pla-568291110880&psc=1&mcid=473b2b43b7003ff6bf7155dfeba59262&gclid=CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOXGYNK9aZKmtMjd-YONuPRd7Z7JuHBAkFjUEYnFlCm6IoMS0fOC1yRoCr0wQAvD_BwE

  15. So the bracket is screwed to the bottom of the hitch in the front and the chain slips over the handle and is pinned from coming loose with the fold over pin?  Is that what I’m seeing?  BTW I assume you made a blood offering?

  16. 3 hours ago, rickeieio said:

    Yesterday, I fixed three things on the truck, two of my own doings, and the third a flaw in the ETHitch design.

    First was a retaining bolt on one of my sliding smart loading trays.  Pretty easy fix by through drilling and putting in a carriage bolt where I'd just had a smaller bolt into a tapped hole.

    Second was making a release tab on a drawer slide.

    Lastly was making a retaining loop/chain to replace the silly safety pin on the latch arm of the ET.  The pin was a band-aid to prevent unlatching due to a flaw in the design/machining process.  I know I'm not the only one to modify this head, though my approach is very different from a couple others I've seen.

    Pics?

  17. 5 hours ago, rickeieio said:

     A myth that needs to be busted is the nasty rumor that there is no Santa Claus.  A couple of my grandkids have been trying to convince me that he's just a myth,  SAY IT AIN'T SO!!!!!!!

    Rick,

    No myth. He exists as surely as you and I.  He’s that wide eyed stare you see in your 5 year old when he’s tossed in his bed all night to see if the offering of milk and cookies has been rewarded with a new bike. He’s as real as the late nights with a screw driver and crescent trying to assemble that play kitchen set. He’s the warm feeling you get when you take a wish from the Angel Tree and see a young child that has nothing get a warm coat and a teddy bear. No myth when you pick up the tab for a young couple struggling with three kids in a restaurant and realize it’s a rare occasion they can afford to go out or the same with an octogenarian couple who’s endured more than we can know. Finally, I know he exists when on this holiday I am lucky enough to have my beautiful wife, daughter, and grandchildren with me. It’s then I realize, I’m Santa Claus, we all are Santa Claus.  Merry Christmas my friend!!

  18. 14 hours ago, rickeieio said:

    I suppose one could view it as, the Kroil had time to do the job, the "other stuff" came late to the party.  Expecting instant gratification from a penetrant is asking a bit much.

    Hey the Kroil had almost five days of multiple soak, heat, soak cycles.  I don’t think the Wurth was the final solution either.  It was the longer pipe extension and leverage.  So all in all, like the ancient Egyptians figured out, leverage is the solution to just about everything.

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