Darryl&Rita

18 hours ago, oldjohnt said:

  NOTE an RV panel does NOT have the Neutral and Ground Busses connected, they are separate insulated and isolated form each other..........

You might be surprised. They're not supposed to be, but...

Other than the title, is this a repost? I was under the impression that you had parts delivered overnight, and were just waiting for the store to open for antifreeze.

Quick answer, the neutral (white) and ground are likely connected somewhere on the RV. The most likely place is in the breaker panel, but it might be in the converter, the fridge junction box, or any other place where connections might be connected incorrectly.

Have you ever connected your phone to an open wifi network? How many hoops did you have to jump through? Wifi dash cams make it easier to download the data via your network (no wires needed), not for the tinfoil crowd to worry about. That doesn't stop them, but that's on them. If you're worried about The Man seeing what you've been up to, in the settings, turn off the wifi. Or, get the dash cam it's own little tinfoil chapeau.

3 hours ago, Deezl Smoke said:

 I believe the Davco runs on filter resistance. Low fuel level means a clean filter. Once the filter begins blocking, the fuel level raises.

 

Winner winner, chicken dinner. Get a couple handfuls of road dust into each tank to make that filter work. When the fuel level gets to the top of the filter, it's due for a change.

22 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Scrap's back!!!!  You've been missed.

Indeed.

You might get lucky, hit all the switches over and over. KW's tend to get corrosion in the weirdest places, and that plays havoc with the controls. I'm hesitant to recommend contact cleaner around the plastic of the steering wheel, but it can be useful, if you're very careful.

My bad, I misread that the lamp was working. If the cruise is working, it has to be the switches on the steering wheel, or the connections to the ECM. The clutch switch and brake switch would also affect the cruise.

16 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Daryl,

Electronics cleaner and q-tips best way?

Start with just a quick disconnect, look inside, then reconnect. Friction of the removal/reseat can clean off contacts without getting too aggressive. The inspection can identify those needing more attention. In those cases, a toothpick is a better tool than a q-tip. Q-tips are too thick to get into many of the connectors.

It could be corrosion in any of the harness connections, in addition to the resistor. Time to hit the wiring diagrams in the Resource Guide. Good luck. Assuming the batteries are charged and all in good condition.

What did you touch?

In Idaho Falls, that is luxury.

Jake needs a closed contact on the clutch pedal, a closed signal from the air brake pressure switch, a power signal from the dash On/Off switch, and a signal from the ECM that the throttle has no, zero, none pressure on it. The power signal appears to be getting through, as the dash indicator...indicates. Our T2 has problems with the air brake switch and corrosion. At least once a year, reach up under the dash from the ground. Wiggle the wires, good for another year. The first indication of corrosion is the cruise control randomly dropping out.

I would have bet it was used in the rolled up position,as pictured. As a head rest under the truck, while avoiding the Honey-do list. Don't want to get rocks stuck in the back of your head, from napping too long and hard.

On 5/14/2023 at 10:54 AM, Wrknrvr said:

Now I have been consulting with three experienced diesel mechanics.

Please don't tell me I'm in this group. I'm just a country boy with diesel stained knees. Not the jeans, my actual knees. 

In my youth, I dreamed of being able to write music and literature while robots worked at the labour. Now, mankind is doomed to the labour, while robots pen music and literature. What happened?

That "-" is the clue. Your transmission isn't seeing Neutral, thus the ECM won't allow a crank. Track down the missing neutral input.

That's the second motorhome/transport truck accident video I've seen recently. The other involves a Class A, with similar results.

Welcome to the craziness. You'll like it here.

Get in behind the tank as much as possible, get a look at the condition of the frame mounted portion. Get all the grit and rust out of the whole area, while you're in there. Rust-Oleum is handy to have available.

4 minutes ago, Dutch_12078 said:

Backed up his claim with what?

Edited post, now. Too late. Doesn't matter, anyway, we would have no dealings with either the mobile dealer or the insurance seller.

And people wonder why I have trust issues. A 3rd party seller has their contract "revised", and it affects their customers. A forum reader questions if the 3rd party vendor is also responsible for a 3rd party insurance sales. They are sniped at, then back up their findings. Sniping continues. 

Is your slider switch connected to an alarm? Some trucks have an alarm that sounds as soon as the switch is energized, sending air to the slide solenoid. If not, use it, assuming your hitch has a levelling valve on it. If you don't have a levelling valve, the hitch will raise to tank pressure with the slide switch on, and drop to flat as soon as the switch is turned off.

I can't see how this is an "unfair" practice. The parks are working to stay within the current laws, while maintaining a profitable business. The Tenancy laws in California are very clearly slanted towards renters already.

Take it off, get it rechromed, strip it and paint it, strip it and get it box-linered, live with it. We're in the same boat.