Darryl&Rita

Your truck didn't come with the windshield curtain?

"Limp".

I don't remember the particular model we have. Internals reminded me of the old Thrush mufflers, with stamped scoops to funnel the sound to the matting. Turn it around, and it's instantly "better" for kids.

Walker, along with others, build a muffler with end in/out connections. Go online, or pull up a stool at the local parts house, and start browsing.

3 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

Anyone know of a good rv tech in my area.

The cobbler's child is never shod.

Local co-op's are the highest price fuel available. They make up for it with your membership cheque at year end. Watch your prices.

Given the air consumption of true train horns, there's no way the tubing and valve size on the company brake handle will do more than an anemic "wheeze..." To begin with, train horns run around 150 psi tanks and compressors, some higher. Then all the tubing and connectors are 1/2", minimum. Size matters.

You can see almost the same thing at most truck stops. Wind pushing trash around, what's left of people after the military industrial complex gets done with them. Depressing as all get out. Used to be a thing, but after our visit 7 years ago, not interested in returning.

Gas or diesel? Mileage?

Go to any local auto parts store. Buy yourself a common Double Pole/ Double Throw momentary switch, rated for at least as much as the original switch. DC motors reverse by swapping the power/ground wires. 2 of the wires will go to the motor, the other 2 are 12v in, and ground. Connect the new switch as the old, rest easy.

Each magnet coil is around 3 ohms, off the top of my head. Four magnets, 12 ohms. What is the display showing?

"Well, while we're in there, might as well fix this" Just add another thousand.

8 hours ago, mike5511 said:

Swapped out the old train horn today for a new one. It’s just one of those three horn units from United Pacific. The old one never did work real good. Wondering what size air line it’s supposed to have?  Also wonder how many amps it takes to trigger the solenoid to open the air valve? It’s a long run and looks like 16guage at the most. The problem with the old horn may have been in the horn button on the steering wheel itself. Still need to look into that. The horn is on the front of the bed behind the sleeper. Probably a 20’ run for the air line at least. I’m wondering if I need a small ping tank and a relay for the 12 volt. I’ll figure it out, but open to advice and suggestions. 

What's sold as "Train Horn" kits for the bro-dozer crowd runs at 150+ psi. The truck air system doesn't. More pressure makes a difference. Volume can help to compensate, but won't cure everything. Use the biggest hoses and fittings you can get in there. Use the next size bigger wire than the chart says.

I want to say behind the glove box, with the rest of the electrical.

If they cut it on the chalk line, it'll be cheaper than further forward, as the crossmember can stay in the factory position.  If it'll clear the bottom of the trailer, leave it there. If it won't fit, sharpen your tape measure, and figure out where it'll have to move to. If it were ours, I'd tend to leave a little less frame hanging out, but I'd have to run the economics first.

2 hours ago, Rotorhead said:

I finally got around to replacing my air dryer. Old one had a constant leak. 
Question, after the tanks fill and it does it’s vent, how long is normal for the purge close? 
The tanks fill. It vents and the pressure goes down to 100 on the front tank. Then the compressor kicks back on and the cycle repeats. The rear tanks stays full unless you are doing some braking.

it’s about 35 seconds for this to occur. 
 

 

You got a leak in the system, somewhere. I don't know what the front tank runs, but it's in that circuit.

Why would I yell? I'm not of the Boomer generation. As long as you're getting closer to a satisfactory place, I'm satisfied. If you retain something, even better, because I won't always be around to help you. Sorry, that slipped out.

It does say that I'll probably be wrong, again. Spokane is too far from Leavenworth, but it could kill a day. Great Schnitzel, incredible brats. Riverfront Park and Spokane Falls is closer. There's a ton of winery and brewery tours, and I think there's even a distillery. Might say something about what it takes to live there.

Bremerton ship yards, with the Navy tours. Space Needle. Boeing used to have a great tour. Downtown homeless camps. If you can't find something to do in Seattle, you're just not trying.

Try it now. I copied off the browser window the first time. The edited post has the link copied from Vern's email. 

Posting for Vern:Filters

Two options for a dash mounted vacuum gauge; air filter or fuel filter restriction. Sometimes they're disguised as a differential gauge, but it's still a vacuum gauge at heart. No manifold vacuum on modern diesels, all boost.

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

I used the heat gun trick on motorcycle body panels.  It looked great for a month or two, until the plastic dried out again.  Just say'n.......

All it costs is a bit of time. Just sayin. Jeep parts must have more oil in them, I do our fender flares about every 2 years, to get rid of the blotchiness.

Propane torch, used lightly. It'll sweat the oils back to the surface of the plastic. A heat gun can also be used, but it actually takes more care, as the plastic tends to warm up more.

I think I suggested polishing about 3 weeks ago. Just sayin'.