Darryl&Rita
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Posts posted by Darryl&Rita
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Kroil not working? Blasphemy!
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Back to your myth, try watching the Coquihalla circus spectacular, and not cringe every time someone says, "His power is going to the front axle, so that's what's chained up" while the rear axle spins, and the truck sits. Helps perpetuate the dumb.
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If you want to get down in the mud with the barnyard animals, fuel efficiency quests have led to 6x2 trucks. These have a dead axle in the rear position, that can't easily be raised, like a true lift axle.
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16 minutes ago, rickeieio said:
I can't speak to other brands, but in the Ford truck line, all cabs are the same, from F-150 through F-550. Seats are too. I would think GM and Ram would be similar.
I don't know if they're still the same cabs for the 650 & 750 series, but you could get air seats factory in the bigger trucks. Makes a pile of difference in ride comfort.
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Take it off, find a hose/hydraulic shop, wait at the counter for 1/2 cup of coffee, pay on your way out. No part number needed.
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Levelling valve to start with, then eyeball the tanks and juggle levels to get more nose weight. Nose down won't necessarily add enough pin weight to make a difference, assuming the equalizers are working properly.
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From the FB HDT group;
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I don't remember seeing an actual picture, but there's several drone videos out there. I'm on my phone right now, but maybe someone else can dig for a group picture and post it here.
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Kingpins. Biggest wear item that gets the least attention. Outside wear is typically a result of toe settings, and one side has to do with the steering linkage of the set back axle on a Volvo. Add in worn/undergreased kingpins, and you get wear. Grease may keep you going until fall, but the miles will accumulate, as will the wear to the tire. Given enough miles, it'll carry over to the other side.
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Another thanks for the pictures and details, definitely brings back memories. We'll get there again, in the future.
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It's back up, Rod. GLWS.
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It might be time to give your FB post a bump, too. That group has newest first, so you're slowly dropping down.
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Bought a scope at Walmart, while on the road. $15 or 20 out the door, 3' of probe, built in display. For what I paid, it's earned it's keep. I think it was Frog brand, or something like that. Toad, maybe. The one you linked is considerably longer, so if that's important, yours is probably better, otherwise, I'm cheap. Especially for a rare use tool.
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Heard there's close to 200 registered. Great turn out.
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My understanding is that it's a lit fuse, ticking time bomb, water drip in the middle of the night. Pick your analogy. The longer it's there, the more likely you'll suffer damage.
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4 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:
“Gargoyle “!
Good times. Miss him.
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8 hours ago, mr. cob said:
Thanks for the suggestion, I looked closely at the gauge and can't see anyway to get at the needle with destroying the gauge.
The modern manufacturing ethos. Some of those style gauges will have a cir-clip holding the glass in place. Look for a pair of eyes that a set of inside snap ring pliers would hook into. If you gotta buy a new one anyway, sometimes a little "therapy" can help.
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3 hours ago, mr. cob said:
Howdy All,
Changed out the fuel filters today, easy task. Found that my in dash fuel pressure gauge is not working properly, since I have owned the truck 46,000 miles ago the gauge when the engine is running has always read 75psi but the needle fluttered a bit. When the engine is not running it reads 50psi and when running goes past the max reading of 100psi and stops when it hit a small pin just under 5psi.
I took the gauge out, cleaned everything that I could, reinstalled it and it still sits at 50psi when not running and goes past the 100 psi marking and stops at the pin that is under the 5psi reading. So I am thinking the gauge has gone bad. Looking online a used gauge is going for a 100 dollars or more, hate to think of what new gauge is going to cost but I can't see replacing it with a used one that might not work or probably won't last that long.
Dave
Hook it up to a "T" fitting, with a second gauge. Apply pressure. Sounds like the needle may be loose on the shaft, and simply needs to be zeroed and tightened.
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31 minutes ago, Chalkie said:
Therefore, for the reason stated in sentence three you really do have to have a clear view of the northern sky since that is the direction the dish orients itself.
Our summer location is just north of 55th parallel. Starlink dishes look south, here. At the most, they will approach 20* off level, but still pointed south.
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Replaced the Bendix R12 valve on the braking system. Had put a kit in the old valve about 5 years ago, but it was starting to act up again. The receipt for the new one reminded me why the kit went in last time. The new one is a multi-fit universal replacement, which means it doesn't fit anything properly. Ports are oriented differently, ports are different sizes than the old valve, etc. Most of it worked out, after raiding the farm air fitting cabinet, but one 45* fitting needs to be swapped for a 90* tomorrow. Get dirty again.
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We continue to use a single axle 32' dry van for personal use. The trailer is registered/insured in our names, and we use a farm plated truck, owned by the collective family, to move it. The combo definitely appears more commercial than any of the rigs you'd see at the National Rally, but we've never had issues with it. Between our use, and family use, it gets more miles in any given year than our 5th wheel home. It's moved kids to college/university, construction material, livestock feed, livestock, vehicles, motorcycles, automotive scrap, etc. Probably the best trailer we've ever bought, because it also lets us swap usage for time on the collective farm.
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White smoke is cold engine/unburned fuel. Been a problem with pre-emissions engine since forever. If it lasts any distance down the road, it's time to look at the injectors.
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in Test Posts
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Pure interweb magic. For some reason, it's pasting the imgur address multiple times. By stripping from the https to the jpg, I get this: