Darryl&Rita

Assuming anything is better than nothing, and not being under manufacturer sized liability risks, if I had kids in the back, they'd have belts. There's NO regulations regarding how they're installed, which way they face, or how many there have to be. Let your conscience guide you. The only laws on any books is that each passenger seat has to have a belt.

10 hours ago, mike5511 said:

I'll have to look at it closer and figure out how to use it. I just use the trip odometer and the fuel average fuel mileage function now. Occasionally check the oil temp and pressure, but the truck as a oil pressure gauge. I'll probably just put some aftermarket volt meter on it. There is no space in the cluster to put it. I figured the LCD panel showed the battery volts. Can't imagine the truck not having someplace to monitor the volts when it was new.

 

Start here:RoadRelay manual

If you have a working Road Relay, you're gold. It will also pull any fault codes for you. They're usually paperweight candidates, and an aftermarket reader like ScanGauge is needed. We use a "D" model on one of the farm trucks, to keep track of the blinky CEL.

Still a wage slave, so every dollar is already spent. Pulling wrenches is the only way to make sure it's done to my satisfaction. Never mind all the other things I'd see while under there.

You're in the same boat as me, Vern. 2004 version is the newest I have. I do agree there is a generational change, right around the time this rig was made. Laptop becomes critical for dignostics, and old school methods don't particularily work anymore, and can cause collateral damage. Swapping ECMs isn't as easy as connecting wires to the test unit, as programming changes can render the test worthless. Basic troubleshooting skills, and a laptop, go hand in hand these days. Troubleshooting is a skill, that is hard to do remote, as Vern can attest to. I'm assuming rpsinc's mechanic has access to a laptop with the Volvo software, but I can provide if not. That will delay, as I need to get a laptop shipped across the Medicine Line. 

1 hour ago, Wrknrvr said:

  Darryl.  

  You need to FaceTime with him.  I really believe you would have a much better idea what to do.    Where to look and test.

    It may take one person trying to start the truck, while another person is looking for lost power somewhere.

  Maybe some time to follow the schematics of his truck.

    

 

Implies iPhone. If Volvo 1-800-I'mB-oned can't help, I may have to do the road trip. I fully expect to have assistance, while I lay hands on the patient. Casting out of demons is seldom a solo excercise.

Google Maps shows 6 hours to Jojoba Hills, of course it takes over an hour just to get to the other side of Phoenix. Give Vern's suggestion a try, let the group know how that goes. I'm balls elbows deep in renovations, but my schedule should be opening up in a week or two.

5 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Not sure where you are.

Phoenix valley, east side. You?

Again, the ECM is not involved in cranking. You have a bad battery cable, or a bad connection. 7 minutes and 23 seconds of troubleshooting would have revealed the fault location, if I was hands on. I'm half tempted to pack a bag, my tools, and go fix this for you.

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

However, it didn't hurt that we also had a Mack for the farm, and the same dealer had parts for both.

Does that mean the Mack got a new cab suspension crossmember, sourced from a remote location? Inquiring minds want to know.

It was from one of your posts, actually, Derek. Around 5 maybe 6 years back. I think it was one of your CCleaner posts, but it might have been more directly FaceBook related.

We're Alberta, so no advice to give, but there are some Ontario members here. In the meantime, at the top of the HDT section, there's a few tacked threads. One of those contains a link to the HDT Resource Guide. There may be some advice in there, or a whole bunch of info just waiting for you to discover it 

1 hour ago, GlennWest said:

oh, had no intention of using frame for dc negative from panels. I was asking about running a ground line to frame from panel frame.

Given that you're putting the equivalent of Ben Franklin's key on the roof of your RV, why would you even question the need for a separate conductor? Tie the PV frames, the racks, and the RV frame together. It seems you're intent on piecing together a system, without benefit of code compliance, but you're getting outside where I'm comfortable adding anymore advice.

Yup, TrailerSaver here, too. Drop the legs to just start taking weight, drop the pressure in the air bags, using the air switch on the dash. The truck will move some during this, as the truck suspension adjusts to the weight removal. This may hae been what the previous owner was trying to mitigate by dropping the suspension pressure. Once the hitch air is dropped, release the jaw lock, then pull forward. Our method involves being beside the hitch a couple times, but the only times we've had hiccups in the hitching/unhitching process we've been in a hurry or tried to do too much in one step.

Maybe it's just me, but I thought the article was heavy toward app usage on the phone, vs. PC or Apple computer users. FaceBook had a nasty habit of editing the registries on machines used to view linked FB pages, not just for signed in users, and would continue to send data back to corporate even after all the history/cookie/data files were deleted. The only solution to truly stopping FB reports involves RegEdit to root out their trash. Haven't heard if Twitter was as dirty or not, yet.

Derek, anything left behind by Twitter, like FB does?

1 hour ago, Chalkie said:

the difference between being zoned as an RV park of mobile home park

This is important to the land owner, as a taxation issue.

ECM isn't involved in the cranking process. Find a better shop.

11 minutes ago, Randyretired said:

Disconnecting only when there isn't a load may work for everyday but if something happens and the switch isn't up to it expect welding inside the switch.

And there's the rub. That's also why items get a safety margin built in. Chinese reverse engineered items often lack the safety margin.

Not a lawyer, nor an insurance agent, adjuster, or sales rep, but I'd bet the Pinkie ring I didn't buy that in the event of an "incident" involving any of the wiring being discussed here, an insurance company would do the fastest side-step you ever seen. They take great delight in anouncing their record profits, quarter after quarter, and those don't come from being generous with payouts.

At any rate, minimize the currents being switched, and the problem resolves itself. At lest, until that one time the owner/owner's representative forgets. In this case, hopefully the maufacturer spec'd a large enough safety margin to contain the chaos.

You own your HOME. Full stop.

33 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

If it is a switch it would not matter at all. The contacts are either open of closed and current for a battery goes one direction when discharging and the other when being charged. 

High current switching, especially DC, is very definetely dirrectional. The internal arc chutes are built for a specific electron flow direction. Whether these switches are built with that high current in mind is the question.

Start looking for RV dismantelers, like Florida RV Salvage.

Taking out a 25-30k btu furnce, replacing with a 3k btu catalytic. Better not get too cold. To answer your question, no that's not how it works. On top of the oxygen removed from the RV interior, there is some combustion byproducts dumped back inside, like carbon monoxide, unburned propane, and humidity. Anyone who tells you there's no CO coming off a catalytic heater is not your friend.

Forgot you were running high voltage array. You need to lok to the commercial/residential solar market, instead of mobile. Siemans, Square D, Eaton, among others make disconnect that fit your parameters. With the voltages you're looking to run, you definitely need one, it's the 12 or 24 volt systems that most mobile systems use that a disconnect is optional (but recommended).