Darryl&Rita

11 minutes ago, adhahn said:

move my own personal belongings

Solenoid, or switch. Time to get dirty.

1 hour ago, Frogman said:

Hi Folks,

Just want you guys to know that I am still reading all the info. The question that I do have is the following. I can understand using a cheap cutting mats, but how do you get them between the brake shoe and the drum ? You have a backing plate in the way. I see no opening. What am I missing ?

Those of us with higher mileage rigs, or with gravel road experience, seldom have the backing plates in position. The street gutters in Grande Prairie are littered with them. They're often not replaced during brake service, to no obvious detriment to the brakes. Besides, with the Jakes, brakes are only for parking. /S

1 hour ago, jenandjon said:

This happens a lot on our lowboy trailer. Just have to get under there and beat on the drum with a hammer. Not much you can do to prevent it. 

Dollar store flexible cutting mats, inserted before the shoes make contact with the drums. Guaranteed fix, just a little bit of in and out exercise to install/remove. All the farm equipment gets it, if the equipment is going to sit more than a week.

13 hours ago, Sparky242 said:

I took mine out and replaced the little battery that is soldered to the circuit board. it is to supply memory power when the truck is off. I sure was glad when it was all back in and the truck started right up.   it was the last active code I fixed so now no codes. 

12 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

   Now that is adventurous.

   That could be above my ability. Although I have fixed a few circuit boards for RV situations.

    That is very interesting to me.

N 14 ECM doesn't have a backup battery.

Keep an eye on the FB post, it's definitely getting attention, since we got it online.

Lock the power divider, if your truck has one. Gently accelerate. Be prepared for a very loud bang. No power divider? Get out the sledge hammer and wood block. Place the wood inside the rim, on the lip of the drum. Swing. Swing. Swing. Curse. Swing. Swear to use flexible cutting boards next time parking the truck for extended periods. Swing. Try to move. Curse.

1 minute ago, Wrknrvr said:

 Switching to watermelon is a good idea. Just leave the salt off The melon.

Haven't got the bacon to work with watermelon.

Geography is interesting. Walk inside any average petro stop around here, and the fuel additive shelf stock is 99% anti-gel related. Most stores don't even stock bio-cide/algicide. There's simply no demand for it. Winter Relative Humidity levels in the teens will do that for you. Of course, beside the till in these businesses is a collection of up to a dozen varieties of lip/hand care.

We're halfway to Alaska for most people. In most people's case, fuel anxiety is HIGHLY overrated. Talk to people going north, raise an eyebrow at some of the modifications made. Talk to them again in the fall, south bound, and they laugh about how many other things there were to worry about that never even crossed their mind. We've built sleds for repurposed fuel tanks. Just make sure your pads are wide enough to support the tank, and rubber spacers to protect the tank. Aluminum is soft.

1 hour ago, sandsys said:

I think all RV manufacturer's put the fire extinguishers by the door. My guess is they want the buyer to see it every time they come inside so they'll remember where to find it if needed. But if the idea is to suppress the fire just enough to have time to escape then you're right, that's a useless location since you'd just head on out the door. Unless there was someone else further back in the RV that needed that extra time to escape so you'd grab and use it instead of heading out. Then it would be good to remember where it is.

Linda

Building code also requires extinguishers to be placed beside exit doors, on buildings that require them. No reason given for the location, just a specified location.

Adding fuel line antifreeze ? To your fridge? Montana ice cream is too hard? I feel like a fish at the hook, I don't want to get pulled in, but it's irresistible.

Maybe there'll be a mid- off season mini return.

That's it? This is worse than the last season of Game of Thrones. I want my money back. What happened to the main characters? Is there peace in the valley?

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

Good thing I bought the big pack of bacon and we had extra butter in the freezer.  Went to the local roadside stand and bought another gallon jug of popcorn.

Oh, and Vern, don't forget all those ground wires too.

Makes my Orville Redenbacher look awful sad. Now I'm sad, no more serial, p!ss poor popcorn with no name margarine added, sigh.

Man, the stress this serial is giving me is crazy. Will Vern ever find the source of his troubles? Will he ever look his wife in the eye again? Stay tuned for the next episode of "The Filters of our Fuel"

If anyone has an empty bowl, now's the time to get it filled again, bathroom breaks, walk the dog. This feels like a cliffhanger serial... Stay tuned for the dramatic finish.

Now I know how people felt watching the old silent movie serials. I'm on the edge of my seat, waiting for the next episode.

My bad. Only ever seen a threaded sensor on the driver's side of the pan. Around a 1" NPT thread. Haven't played with Volvo engines, much, though. Mostly Cummins and Cat.

This is going to be a real good story, Rickeieio. Better get extra butter on the popcorn. It'll probably end up being a cautionary tale for anyone brave (foolish?) enough to volunteer to remote troubleshoot.

23 minutes ago, sandsys said:

Always keep your phone charged and your GPS up to date.

And your credit card balance as low as possible.

The only sensor on the pan is a screw-in type. No need to drop the pan.

ETA: The "-" originally posted as "=".

30 minutes ago, bigredhdt said:

I have heard others with the oil wicking issue, so I wanted to ask this question.   I opened up the oil level sensor and there is oil in the connector.  Do I need to change the sensor or just get the anti wicking jumper or both?

Two unrelated problems. If the connector on the oil pressure sensor is wet with oil, it's likely the sensor is on it's way out. If the passthroughs haven't been changed, change them. They're due.

If you're selling to a salvage yard, they'll pay scrap metal prices. No two ways about it. They have to sit on it, selling bits and bobs off it, until the yard space is worth more than the metal price of the day. If you were to think about scrapping out a truck in our RV park, we'd have cross words. Sell it as a project, you'll likely do slightly better than the salvage yard price, but you'll have more work, too.

Agree with Lloyd. The days of putting a hand on the valve cover and diagnosing problems is long gone. Your guy needs to be able to basic diagnostics. Having Mercedes software available wouldn't hurt, either. Does the fuel door smell like gas, or diesel? Basic troubleshooting still has a place, but electronics definitely help.