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M2-106 Front Sway Bar End Link Bushings

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Anyone here owning at Frieghtliner M2-106 made after 2010, please check your front sway bar endlink bushings.  If you have the old style installation, chances your top end link bushings are either coming apart, gone or starting to show signs of problems.

Frieghtliner on the M2-106 has known about this problems since they posted the service bulletins in 2010 and continued to use old stock till after 2014.  If you are out of warranty, the corrective action could cost over $2800.00.  If yours is the straight rod end link with bushings on top and bottom, that is the old stuff !!

The end link bushings are an ID of 1/2" and moving to poly version help.

If you recently purchased a sport chassis truck within the last two years, take it in ASAP and have Frieghtliner correct the problem under warranty, they will replace the whole front sway bar assembly with the correct one.

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Looking at the design and missing bushings, the problem stems from Freightliner not using domed grade 8 or better washers.  The current washers look to be grade 5 flat washers and with enough stress, the washer inverts and is pushed off the nut allowing the bushing to destroy itself.  

Low cost and effective repair ...

  • Qty 1 - Energy Suspension 9.810R End Link Grommets ...
  • Qty 4 - Grade 8 Washer with a center hole of 1/2 ID ...

Have a couple 3/4” wrenches and 3/4” socket setup ...

Takes 30 minutes to swap out everything and make some repairs.  The new bushings are 7/16th and the end link rod is 1/2”, this makes a snug fit and no shaft play.

Everything available on Amazon Prime.  Spent $20.00, works great and the poly bushing are stiff so sway bar working better  !

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Just checked mine with the Feb 2014 built date. The 4 grommets are there but show some wear from loosening. I need to gather more parts for some cooler day.

Thanks for the TIP    Clay

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Dick you looked the same place as I did and missed it, Maybe 12 inches from those side to side bushing or a foot forward on the Left to Right part of sway bar, you should find vertical shafts installed. I had to open the hood and look down at the shaft, the bushing are between the frame.

Clay

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I will post the documents tonight once I re-learn how to post pictures here ..... 🙂

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Here is the picture and item #4 on both sides are whats in question ....

In Freightliner service bulletin #32-47 dated 9/2010, they claim that people may experience premature wear of the upper bayonet bushing on the connecting rods.

If you drive lots of bumpy and windy roads, that is true do to the poor design.  The top washer is not domed and of poor quality so is breaks apart.  There is not enough shaft space to put on a proper domed grade 8 washer without machining down the poly bushings to make it work.

Hope this helps.

Screen Shot 2018-05-31 at 1.29.59 PM.png

Edited by Pug

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Yes, the airbags help a lot !!  It cushions the stress the sway bar puts in the bushings.

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Forgot to mention for Bobi and Dick ....

Check that top washer on both sides.  Those firestone airbags help a lot however stresses are still there, it does not go away completely.  If the washer is bowing up and still there, you should address it before too late.  If the washer is flat and does not move, you are golden !

 

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After traveling I 70 east through Vail I decided to check the bushings again.  I 70 in that area has grooves through the asphalt down to the sub base from truck chains during the winter. I had to slow down to 25 in sections to keep my teeth in my head.  When I checked, the bushing were beginning to fall apart. Because we are on the road for the summer and couldn't order parts and do it myself, I took it to Freightliner in Colorado Springs. Wasn't too bad, $220 for new bushings washers and nuts.  I'll be watching the for the remainder of the summer to see how they are holding up.

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Be careful, rough roads, windy roads seem to tear apart the cheap factory rubber ones ...

Another thing that also works well for grove steering is steering stabilizer made by safe-t-plus.  I use that on my trucks, works very well, so much that is helps show you excessive slop in the ball joints and king pin ....

http://www.safe-t-plus.com 

 

 

 

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Oh BTW, when you put the poly bushing and grade 8 or better hardware on the top, after a while the lower bushing on the sway bar seems to go to hell ....  Tracking down the poly version of that and will post the part number when available.

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