Dometic 1292 refrig/freezer problems

j2catfish · November 2, 2015

Neither side will operate on electrical power; both appear to operate on gas, refer does not appear to get cold enough (about 45*). I have checked both fuses on the printed circuit board on the rear of the unit - both checked good with ohmmeter. Unit was operating when we left home but seems to have failed after our first campground stop. The fuse (DC) and circuit breaker (AC) check good. Unit is a 2007 model but the coils were replaced in 2011.

Anyone with any ideas where to check next? We did complete our last adventure to Stone Mountain and NMB and back to the castle but on refrig is a genuwine pita.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Catfish

Kirk W · November 2, 2015

My first suggestion is to visit Bryant RV website and download a copy of the 1292 owners manual to guide you if you don't have a copy. Looking at the website, there isn't a service manual that is specific to that particular model abut I suspect that the service manual for the 1200 series applies to yours and could be used.

I'm not sure what you mean by "neither side" but would assume that you are thinking of the freezer and the chill box areas? Both sides share a common cooling unit and thus they also share any energy source. If your refrigerator reaches the proper temperature when on gas that is probably a good thing, but if it cools on gas but not enough and doesn't cool on electric, that is usually an early sign of cooling unit failure. If you have not done so, look in the back for any signs of yellow gunk or ammonia odors as that would confirm such a leak, but there are other possible causes.

When you shift to electric power, does it stay on electric but just fails to cool? What temperature setting are you set to? Does the cooling unit run constantly in an effort to cool, but never reaches the set temperature? If so, that also points to a failing cooling unit, but if it shuts off like it had reached the proper temperature but remains warmer than normal, that would point to the control circuitry.

Wrknrvr · November 2, 2015

First thing is did you smell ammonia at all. Then check to see if there is any yellow stain in the boiler area.

If that is ok then with the fridge is on ac current see of there is 120 or so volts at the connection where the heating elements are getting power from the board. If you have a amp meter test for amperage use. Maybe 3 amps.

Then is the flame burning properly, possible dirty burner tube,dirty tube vent slots where the gas flows out from the tube. After you turn the gas off and refrigerator and block the oriface Clean the burner slots and then blow through the slots back towards the opening ,

See if the flame is any bigger or shaped more even. That will give an indication as that it had a problem.

SafeTravels, Vern

j2catfish · November 3, 2015

Thanks for the help. It is appreciated. Since the cooling coil have been fairly recently changed and I do not see any yellow color nor smell the ammonia, I think that is not the problem. Since the refrigerator side is not cooling adequately on electrical, I have the thermostat in the refrigerator section pushed to the top of the cooling vanes, and the lights on the eyebrow panel in the 5th position (calling for max cold). I do have the manual for the unit but of course there are no troubleshooting tips for my problem. The flame is as described in the manual and is developing enough heat to make the freezer operate OK on gas. Since the eyebrow panel will not turn on in the electrical mode (it fails back to gas operation) I am leaning to a circuit board problem but of course Domnetic's schematics show a block with wires leading to it but no idea of what is contained on the circuit board. I cannot see any obviously burned components. Looks like time for a residential unit installation.

Thanks again.

Rif · November 3, 2015

If it fails back to gas operation it is most likely not sensing AC power. You say you have checked the breaker, but have you actually verified that there is power at the outlet where the refer is plugged in? If so, I agree with your decision to proceed with a residential refer. It is one of the best things we have ever done.

rvtamer · November 11, 2015

Neither side will operate on electrical power; both appear to operate on gas, refer does not appear to get cold enough (about 45*). I have checked both fuses on the printed circuit board on the rear of the unit - both checked good with ohmmeter. Unit was operating when we left home but seems to have failed after our first campground stop. The fuse (DC) and circuit breaker (AC) check good. Unit is a 2007 model but the coils were replaced in 2011.

Anyone with any ideas where to check next? We did complete our last adventure to Stone Mountain and NMB and back to the castle but on refrig is a genuwine pita.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Catfish

You indicated the refer only goes to about 45 * on gas and does not work on the electrical side.

May I ask how did you check the temperature of the refer box ? I am trying to determine if the cooling unit is cooling enough for you on the gas side. If the box DOES cool enough on that side, the cooling unit is NOT suspect.

If you tested the air temperature, that would not give you an accurate reading. When you open the refer, the cool air escapes rapidly and lowers the temperature by several degrees. The best method is to stick a cup of water inside the lower box, let it cool and then test the box temperature with a probe in the water. Water does not loose its temperature anywhere near as fast as the air does, so you get a more accurate reading. The reading should be approx. 36-38 * , although ambient temperature can come into play.

Since you know how to use an ohmmeter, did you do the ohm tests to the heating element ? The service manual will tell you how to do this. It is very easy to do.

Rif asked if you tested the electrical supply box at the rear of the refrigerator. If you find no power here, check the circuit breaker, and the gfi . If you have power there , then your problem is in the refer.

You indicated you checked both fuses on the lower circuit board and they were ok. Did you then use your meter to check for 110 volts out of the circuit board to the two wires to the heating element ?

Kirk W · November 11, 2015

Since it does not cool properly with either propane or 120V power, the odds are that it isn't a power source problem. You did not mention having checked the fuse on the control board that is for the electric heaters, but you should have two fuses, one for 12V-dc and the other for 120V-ac to the heaters. Usually the 12V is about 3A and the 120V is typically 5A, so if you have not checked those, it is time to do so. To me it sounds like you may have two different problems, one causing the 120V to not be detected and the other the poor cooling. Make sure that the cooling problem isn't something simple like some insulation or something blocking the outlet from the flue up near the top. That will cause poor cooling to happen and is easily fixed. Tim is correct on the best way to measure the temperatures if you don't have a remote reading thermometer so that you can know what it is with the door closed. Also, checking the resistance value of each of the heaters will tell you if one happens to be open but I don't think that your refrigerator would shift to propane if that were the problem. (I'm not certain of that part.)