TxCowboy Posted February 28, 2015 Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 Seems a good place to ask this question and, yes, it's probably a no-brainer. Is the 7 pin electrical connector providing enough power to operate the FW refrigerator on the electric setting while being towed? Thanks!! Jeff & Laurie South Texas Hounds: Auggie (beer drinking English Cocker Spaniel) Angus (five pounds of bad azz chihuahua) Homebase: 2015 Heartland 365 Key West -- The "Uno Mas" The Office: 2016 Crossroads Hill Country 26RB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted February 28, 2015 Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 Unless you have what is called a "3 way" refrigerator, or possibly an inverter to supply the power, your refrigerator will not cool while driving because the standard RV refrigerators require 12V for control circuits and either propane or 120V-ac for the heat source. Of course, if your RV has a household type refrigerator, and an inverter to change 12V-dc to 120V-ac power to supply it, then it may work. Since it wouldn't be running all of the time, the 12V charging lead in your 7 pin connector probably will keep up with the demand for power. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TxCowboy Posted February 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 Nope, it's a two-way. Gas it is and, yeah, I've been reading the on-going thread about using the propane system while towing. Thanks, Kirk! Jeff & Laurie South Texas Hounds: Auggie (beer drinking English Cocker Spaniel) Angus (five pounds of bad azz chihuahua) Homebase: 2015 Heartland 365 Key West -- The "Uno Mas" The Office: 2016 Crossroads Hill Country 26RB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skp51443 Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 The fridge probably needs about 500 watts, 40 amps to run on AC which is a lot to expect from the trailer plug's wiring. It is intermittent as Kirk mentioned so you would likely keep up if you put an inverter in the RV. Running an inverter in the truck and using two extension cords (so they can unplug if pulled on) is a much better idea and it gives you AC power in the truck for other uses. First rule of computer consulting: Sell a customer a Linux computer and you'll eat for a day. Sell a customer a Windows computer and you'll eat for a lifetime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 I would caution you about inverting AC in the truck and sending it over to the trailer. You need to do that correctly - taking appropriate safety measures - or you can cause a real issue if things go wrong. You need to know what you are doing and use appropriate plugs/receptacles if you tackle sending 120v across. Bill does know what he is doing, so his installation is safe. But this is not something I'd recommend for people not familiar with safety issues with 120v power. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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