Brad & Jacolyn Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Hi Guys, The Volvo is in the shop and they tell me the exhaust leak smell in the cab is from a leaking exhaust manifold. They have not given me a price yet but it sounds like it will be a bit high (and I'm not even going attempt to tackle it myself). How much should this job cost. I'm making the assumption that resealing means replacing an exhaust gasket. Am I right about this? What damage will I do (other than suffocating myself) will I do if I don't fix it? Engine damage? Thanks Brad Brad and Jacolyn Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier 2009 Smart "Joy" 2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo" 2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218" Fulltiming and loving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabbie Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 If I remember correctly I paid a little over 2000.00 to have it done. I would have to check my records though to be sure. There is a lot of stuff that has to come off to get the manifold off, time-consuming job. I had to have the maifold replaced due to cracks in it, and from what they told me this is a common issue . If you do not get it done you might start to smell desiel fumes in the cab while driving, if you idle for extended periods you will suck the fumes into the cab. Both not great situations. As far as damaging the engine, no worries there. It is a safety issue so they will not safety your truck as along as it has the leak, if you have to do an emissions test they may not do it until it is fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob A Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 It needs to be fixed. It affects turbo boost, fumes in cab are bad, soot from exhaust will plug air filter, it's a big job to do your self but doable, close inspection of parts for corrosion on sealing surfaces is important, replace all gaskets when in there not just the failed one. 2014 jayco siesmic 3914 1998 volvo 610, singled short ( bought in 2005) 14 speed volvo tranny 2014 Toyota yaris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill B Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 It will affect - boost pressure - the exhaust gases spin the turbo to make pressure- less exhaust less spin. exhaust brake - exhaust brake essentially stuffs a potato in the pipe, if it is leaking, less back pressure, less braking. exhaust comes out hot. Check your pyrometer, 600*F. or so. If there is any wiring around the leak, it can melt the wire insulation and cause ??? other things. Same if there are any air lines, melting. Diesels stuff a lot of air in the cylinders. Usually an excess. So carbon monoxide is not really an issue like it is with a gas. So some smell, some soot. Possible leak spots. Exhaust gasket, You have a split manifold (joint in the middle), so there, output from the manifold, exhaust brake manifold, turbo housing, recirculation cooler(s), lines to the intake manifold. I'll point them out to you tomorrow. We are in 177 by the office. Bill and Cecil2007 Volvo 780 Motorhome - Autoshift 3 Trans | 2003 38' New Horizons 5'erPhotobucket Pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budeneighe Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 First, always get a second opinion and if possible, personally verify that this is what it needs. I have had several different times that I was told I needed some expensive work done only to eventually (and before I paid for it) found that the diagnosis was wrong and I did not need a new $$4400 Transmission computer. I just needed a bent pin in the ECU connector straightened out. Same was true for replacing the x-y selector unit when the actual problem was the range selector solenoid. $35 instead of several thousand $$. Might also check the flex coupling for leaks and be sure it is on tight on both ends. Even though it is almost behind the engine it will put fumes in the cab in a heartbeat. Fixed mine 3 times. First time was when the flex rib tore loose and created a seam crack around the middle. Replaced the flex pipe. Second was when the guy that fixed the first one did not tighten the clamp to the rear of the turbo and it was hanging down on the new flex extension. Fixed that myself. Third time was when the new flex extension rusted through (a couple of years later) because I went cheap and did not buy the stainless steel flex coupling for a few $$ more. Had a quick service mechanic in Sioux Falls, SD fix that with a SS flex. I hope that is what it is because it is pretty easy and cheap to fix and does not require a Volvo mechanic. RVBuddys Journal Our progress into full-timing.Budd & Merrily ===-> SKP# 088936 Other Websites:---> Hub of all my blogsClifford - 2000 VNL64T770 :: DakotR - 1999 C40KS King of the Road :: $PRITE - 2013 Smart Passion w/cruise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad & Jacolyn Posted November 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 I already replaced the flex pipe and have inspected it a few times when I was looking for this leak. I have been all over the engine and have found nothing. The last time I had the oil changed the mechanic said that he thought there was some soot showing on the manifold that could be a leak but I never could see it. I called around yesterday to a couple of shops and one said that it was a 4 - 6 hour job and another said it could be as much as 8 - 10 hours. Now I need to have Volvo tell me how long a job this will be and then decide. One guy told me to properly do the job the manifold should be removed and resurfaced. Brad Brad and Jacolyn Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier 2009 Smart "Joy" 2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo" 2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218" Fulltiming and loving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 <<One guy told me to properly do the job the manifold should be removed and resurfaced. >> If it's been leaking for a while, he's likely correct. It the leak is small, and or just started, you can likely get by without it. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spindrift Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Hopefully, it's not a cracked manifold. When a gasket goes, it is usually visible to the eye since the leak will leave a telltale soot "plume" on the side of the cylinder head. Visit the shop unannounced and ask to see the leak. 2012 F350 KR CC DRW w/ some stuff 2019 Arctic Fox 32-5MCindy and Tom, Kasey and Maggie (our Newfie and Berner) Oh...I forgot the five kids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad & Jacolyn Posted November 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Well it is all fixed. I had a broken bolt and a warped exhaust Manifold. New one now and no smell. Also the brakes seem to work better. Guess the exhaust brake was not happy without all the exhaust it wanted. Brad Brad and Jacolyn Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier 2009 Smart "Joy" 2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo" 2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218" Fulltiming and loving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sclord2002 Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Brad, would you mind sharing the details of your repair, as far as labor costs, parts cost etc. If you would rather not, I understand, though. I may be looking at the same repair job in the future. Thanks, Charlie. Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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