rpsinc
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Posts posted by rpsinc
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My truck is an '08 and I dont know why it is acting this way but thanks for the info as I now know why I have reduced pressure from my tie in point at the air bags, its after the leveling valve. So truck is doing what it is supposed to, it seems. I have the other air line sitting there and will try to see if I can repurpose it to the TS, if not then cab air tie in it is.
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I am installing a new hitch as the one that was on my truck(not sure what brand but had Binkley head and only 1 bag) wont handle the NH trailer we now have. The air supply that was used was from the trailer air supplied through the red knob on the dash. Seems I cant drive with that activated though, dash has a fit and notifies me to stop.
So, finished the mechanical install of the hitch and figured I'd use the air to the rear bags(I'm still tandem) but I can get the pressure I need to fill the bags. I am using a mechanical regulator instead of the Air Lift one that TS supplies. I believe the the Air Lift regulators need power to work as well as air, but not sure where I would pick up the air near the cab of the truck(Volvo730). Are the rear air bags using full truck air pressure or am I wasting my time trying to use that supply for the hitch. Some testing seems to indicate that I need around 65PSI for my trailer, so...
what is my best option to pick up air for the hitch? Are the air bags seeing full truck air pressure? If yes, then why cant I get my hitch bags to inflate? Maybe it would be better to just use the supplies Air Lift regulator, which I will, just running low on time and trying to reduce the work load.
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11 hours ago, Second Chance said:
had more than $68 billion in net income for 2018
That could affect the National Debt some. It would be helpful if they would adjust their premiums so that we are taking it in the shorts so hard. I dont begrudge them making a profit BUT.... Perhaps I should move some of my investments over to insurance companies, as they seem to be adept at returning on their shareholders investments. They sure havent returned much to me on my premiums, and there is always the fine print IF you make a claim.
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It has always amazed me how many insurance companies are BIG sponsors of motor sports. I am an NHRA & NASCAR fan, and there are so many insurance companies that are sponsors on these teams and on the events. It has caused me to wonder how much profit do these companies make to be able to doll out so much money as sponsors.
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Love how this forum helps us all bring this around in a circle. Most are not FULL circles yet but we continue along the journey with different caretakers for the many parts of our RVing experience and its associated equipment.
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12 hours ago, dbrandon said:
I am too much of a wuss to drive it up the ramps, so I use the winch.
We will be using a winch for sure, and I believe that other than the 453, the trannys dont like going up those ramps. My DW needs a way to load without my help so the winch it is. I would not call that being a wuss. Do what makes the most sense for you. Undoubtedly when you have become more familiar and comfortable with the setup, you may find it reasonable to drive up.
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Glad that worked out for you. Have not personally used that product.
I am familiar with it.
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17 hours ago, D&J said:
Not sure what your experience with Crazy Seal and repairs but we had a encounter with a tree branch the first year it was applied that made 3 triangle tears in the roof radius. I sealed them with lap sealant and when we got home a couple of coats of Crazy Seal and all was good. Because the branch rubbed all the way down the trailer I cleaned and and recoated it all the way down. Just cleaned and inspected it after getting back from the winter in AZ and it looks just like I applied it.
Denny
Glad that worked out for you. Have not personally used that product. I have tended to stay with commercial products as they are more robust and being in the trades, I have access to them so I tend to stay away from those products that are sold in home centers and the like. Just my own preference.
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4 hours ago, GlennWest said:
I am very content with Henry's Tropic cool. Mine been on a few years now and still looks great. Only drawback I see is it slick when wet.
That is because it is silicone based. The biggest issue with silicone based products is that they are very hard to do repairs with. So if you happen to scrub a tree limb on your trailers outside radius and that needs to be repaired, then it becomes tough because silicone is SO SLICK that nothing sticks to it, but it sticks to most things. So it works well as a once and done coating and why it is used so much on residential, commercial and mobile homes, once and done, and those units dont move, unless there some sort of natural disaster.
If you are happy with the results then that is great, because it is your rig that you repaired. We all make the best choice we can with the information that we have available at the time we make the decision.
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On 5/5/2023 at 5:47 AM, Stayto said:
Good to know. Sadly, I overpaid for it as it was during a time a couple years back when inventory was low and everyone was looking to escape their various lockdowns. I got it as an emergency “bug out” vehicle to flee the state where I lived if that became necessary. It did not, but I ended up leaving anyway. I like to think if I can get the roof looking decent, that this will be better suited to be lived in than traveled with, which many folks around here seem to do. Thanks for the help!
I was an installer of RV roofs for a while and this was after I had done some of my own.
RV Armor and Flex Armor are the most expensive options but may be good for you IF you intend on having it done and the LIFETIME warranty is something that you have to have.
Another installed option is RVRoofingpros.com. Lou does a great job and also offers lifetime warranty. His membrane has Kevlar added for durability.
On 5/3/2023 at 3:47 PM, D&J said:Crazy Seal/Liquid Roof
Those 2 products are different. Crazy Seal is owned by the same guy as RV Armor BUT its a silicone based coating. While it works I wouldnt use it mostly because it is WAY more difficult to do repairs in the future. Liquid Roof has been around a long time and works well but it is a 2-part catalyzed product. I always added multiple layers but it is EPDM based and lends itself to repairs and is very DIY friendly.
On 5/3/2023 at 6:00 PM, GlennWest said:Henry's Tropic cool
Not really a RV product but can be OK for stationary rigs. It is more intended for flat roofs on mobile homes and houses.
If I was looking for a DIY product with proven track record and EPDM based and with the best value, as long as I was willing to do the work, Liquid Roof is my choice. I would use a couple additional coats. A best value for an applied roof that I would have installed and carries a warranty- Rvroofingpros.com. Can be done where ever the trailer is unlike Flex Armor which has to be done in a franchise location. RV Armor is solvent based and has a strong odor that lasts a long time but the product does provide a good result.
Any of these require good cleaning to get the best results. I dont encourage pressure washing just lots of elbow grease, cleaning with blue Dawn and removing all the soapy residue is necessary. Scrub brushes are absolutely key and for those hard to clean areas, some mineral spirits as a cleaner with elbow grease. IF the years have brought multiple applications of Dicor caulking to joint areas and the front/rear caps, knock those down if they are piled up, using a multi-tool. No need to remove it all although leaving some can be helpful. Embedding some polyester fabric into the coating over the joints is very good, and doing it before the monolithic coatings are done.
Hope this helps.
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On 4/30/2023 at 6:07 PM, Iroam607 said:
I'm going with "Americas Mailbox ".
We have used them for many years and they have been good to work with and their service is very useful. We plan to continue with them.
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On 4/30/2023 at 7:11 AM, Jaydrvr said:
These are the ones I got for my '99 Volvo. They're as perfect as I could want and they're holding up just fine. Jay
Suspa C16-09209 C1609209, 16" Gas Prop, Quantity (2), Force 38 Lbs Per Prop, Force Per Set 76 Lbs, Camper Rear Window, Tonneau Cover Lift Supports, Window Lift Support, Made in USA https://a.co/d/0xBG07r
Interesting that you send me to a Lift Supports Depot link as I emailed them with the Volvo specs and they replied that they had nothing close to what I needed. I have bought from them often by using dims and because they are quick to get them to me. Satisfied with them.
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Any body know of a substitute for the Volvo parts? I know there has to be the company that makes them for Volvo, selling them with that label on it. Need to replace mine as they are really lazy and want to increase the capacity. I have had many service trucks and replaced them there, and have added to the strength which was a real plus.
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9 minutes ago, Kirk W said:
Maybe it is people with CA license plates that need to worry?
My info is that weekenders are being pulled over by CHP using portable scales and then doing what they do from there.
One guy I know was over length and they made him leave his enclosed trailer on the shoulder till he could come get it with his pickup. Motorhome + trailer was 68'. Same thing has happened with overweight trailers.
Being cited for overweight is likely a good thing as the insurance companies can deny any claim if the rig is not lawful. So LEOs are doing a service to the public by keeping many of those folks, who may not know the laws, by informing them of the laws, ticketing them and forcing them to comply.
I, personally would rather become knowledgable before hand, although its impossible to know every thing necessary to be 100% legal.
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Being a Cali resident for now, I can tell you that here in So Cal, LEOs are looking out for MANY weekend RVers that load their heavy buggies, and other sand toys, water, gas etc. into their now OVERWEIGHT toyhaulers and head out to the desert towing with their F250/2500 trucks that are often lifted, "BUT IT HAS A DIESEL, IT WILL PULL ANYTHING" except you are grossly overweight and travelling the I10 through the Palm Springs area where winds will howl at times, and then you are putting us all at risk by being overweight while needing almost 2 lanes to control that rig and being unsafe.
To the OP-IF you fit into that category, then perhaps they should check you out, but for the most part, having RV'd for over 40 years, I have not been pulled over to have my RV weighed, inspected or otherwise inquired about(in Cali or elsewhere). I do follow the laws esp at it pertains to being within the weights of my rig's capacity, but I am of the school of HDTs and being in construction for over 33 years, I use the correct tool(truck/trailer) for the job.
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If you use the air source you are considering, at least on my truck, it WILL alarm as the truck doesnt like being in Drive with that air source activated.
I am in the process of changing my hitch also and will be using air from my rear air bags, added a ball valve and a regulator for control of my hitch.
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And admit that mistakes happen and dont dance around it but satisfy the customer who paid you $$ to do the job and should not have to check the work of the folks that did the job. Those shops should have a double check process internally. Only really takes a few minutes to do that.
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I have no experience with that system on a V10 but have some with a 460 V8. Definitely worth it on a 36' MH on the F53 chassis. I am familiar with the Banks location and have worked at their facility. They have racks to do those installs. Most of this is aftermarket bolt-on equipment and might be handled by shops that service MHs, esp gas chassis's. Not too difficult just time consuming, but really depends on skill level and available work area.
Banks does build good stuff.
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2 hours ago, Chalkie said:
even if the salesman says you can
And salesman also say your 1/2T pickup can tow a 36' 5er. Just ask him!!
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If you are planning on using a Smart and loading it on the bed, singling short is NOT a likely option.
I am in the process of doing similar. I am planning some bed mods as I need to extend my bed and move my hitch back to accomodate my new to me trailer and haul the Smart. I am going to keep my truck tandem, as I dont know what the future holds for my truck, but I did choose to run only outside tires and left the inner rims on the truck. Rides very well and only 4 tires.
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On 4/12/2023 at 11:10 PM, frame damage-responsiblity said:
there's no way an adequate repair could be made anywhere other than in a properly equipped facility.
I vehemently disagree. I have 32+ years as an installer of warehouse equipment, all done in the field using portable service truck and experienced people. There are MANY mobile welders, trailer repair techs and truck mechanics with great skills that can do a good repair, perhaps even overcome the unfortunate original design and/or materials & workmanship quality or lack of.
On 4/13/2023 at 7:08 AM, TXiceman said:Whatever the product was, it had my name on it and it was built right, or I walked from the project.
I agree. I want whatever I do to be safe and be reliable for the life of the product or equipment. It has my name on it. Now, I do find that this approach is not very common in our modern world. Too many are just putting in the hours needed to get a check, not so much caring about the quality of the job they are doing ie. poor welds which I see EVERYDAY.
It will be interesting to see how Lippert follows up on this issue.
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No display just the FT sensors and not sure what model either but the trailer also has a signal booster. I am a bit ignorant of this system and its technology.
Air supply for new TS hitch???
in HDT
Posted
Thanks all. When I have the time, I will be dragging myself under the truck to source a full pressure air supply, likely at the cab bags and then use that to accomplish what I need. The work continues.