rpsinc
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Posts posted by rpsinc
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On 12/4/2022 at 7:44 AM, Wrknrvr said:
Caterpillar hydraulic additive into the system
I used Lucas fork oil for motorcycles. Solved a leak AND caused the whole system to operate better. Will do that from now on.
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I am hoping for Larry's good karma to work for me to get mine started. Its a challenge for sure!!
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rigid insulation glued onto the back side of the door. Can be bought in various thicknesses at most home centers. Be sure to use the correct adhesive otherwise it wont stay on long.
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21 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:
If you jump the solenoid will the engine turn over.
Nope
8 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:does this truck have remote diagnostics from Volvo trucks USA
Nope
5 hours ago, ddm502001 said:Volvo dealer anywhere near to you?
The guy working on it is a Volvo master with Volvo software
2 hours ago, rickeieio said:It was a PITA to diagnose and fix.
Here we are living this. Now they are asking IF I can have the truck towed to their shop so they can have access instead of 50 minute ride each way to try a few things. Known good ECM did not change anything.
1 hour ago, Wrknrvr said:Also Volvo trucks USA may help
They did "tow it to a dealer"
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Is there any possibility to use conduit, perhaps running under the belly and some THHN??
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37 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:
Phoenix valley, east side. You?
I'm 20 minutes north of Jojoba Hills SKP park, north of Temecula, CA.
I like the facetime idea, I IPhone.
40 minutes ago, rickeieio said:I think you described the problem. Starting circuit doesn't know the tranny's in neutral.
Yes, I believe it is BUT what to do to correct it. That is what we are all chasing.
10 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:We would all feel relieved if he could get it running again.
Our relief will be unimaginable, I think. This truck, while being an '08, but with a little over 85K miles, doesnt seem to doing this kind of thing, but it is what it is and this too shall pass.
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Thank you so much for sharing this!! We have been married nearly 45 years (I'm not 65 yet) and have not started our long term RVing adventures although we have an HDT and a short Teton. So glad that you helped me realize the memories that are there for the making.
The RV community is out there and seems to always be welcoming. Which I was closer to give you a hug.
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36 minutes ago, rickeieio said:
Long shot, but easy...... do you have a gear indicator? Does it show "N"? Starting circuit needs to see neutral to go ahead and crank.
It is an IShift and the tranny has been in N all the time and this has been confirmed with a scan tool although the dash (TCM?) doesnt seem to acknowledge that. That is partly why I am suspicious of a broken wire some place. They guy I have working on it now owns his own shop but was previously a Master Tech at the local Volvo dealer. So he has resources and was able to "borrow" an ECM to eliminate that as a possibility. Now he is considering bringing a guy who specializes in the electrical/electronics side of these trucks, but he has accounts that he is obligated to take care of and so my truck is in an as-available situation. I am not bothered by that because I dont earn my living with it and they do, but at some point I have to get this done.
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Perhaps but I cant get the thought out of my mind that there is a wire/wires that have been chewed through somewhere, and since the neutral switch is the notice coming on the dash, perhaps related to the tranny. I do have rabbits in my yard and have seen them under the truck. They did get to my personal truck a couple years ago.
Not familiar enough to know where to look to eliminate that as an option.
49 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:Again, the ECM is not involved in cranking. You have a bad battery cable, or a bad connection. 7 minutes and 23 seconds of troubleshooting would have revealed the fault location, if I was hands on. I'm half tempted to pack a bag, my tools, and go fix this for you.
You would be welcome. Not sure where you are. The battery cables, grounds and associate relays and fuses have been checked several times.
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The latest TEST was to replace the ECM with a known good one. That did not reap positive results. Same issue was realized: dash goes dark when key goes to start position.
Several inspections and checks have been made to perhaps find damaged wires, either + or grounds and even signals. Nothing discovered yet. Still working at it.
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3 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:
W. I am not sure what these ground screws go to. Now if you have them on your truck, it could be a cheap fix. Take them apart and clean the contact surfaces. Ours is a 2000 Volvo 610. They into a wiring harness.
I do know if you have these studs or not. But it would be a cheap thing to try. I do believe there are three on the drivers side also.
just trying to help.
I very much appreciate ALL the help given. I am trying each of the things that have been mentioned, at least the ones I can do. Its a process.
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This UTube is exactly what I am experiencing. Seems he went down a parts rabbit hole and so not sure where to put the effort.
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Well the saga continues. Found another shop owned by 3 guys(Father and his 2 sons) all of them worked at Volvo dealer. Dad is master tech. They have found that everything wiring wise and electrically checks out but same result. Now they are thinking that the ECM may have taken a dump. They will be looking to see if they can "borrow" one from another truck to swap into mine to test if that is the problem. They will also do the same with TCM. Hope they can do that or also looking for a test device for ECM but those are not common for independent shops but they still have contacts at dealer.
Anyone know if those ECM/TCM can be repaired? Not sure what the availability is for those and what costs will be.
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FYI- we stayed in an RV park in Boulder City, which is way smaller and quieter than Henderson. I recently stayed at a motel there recently and enjoyed going there after my work day. I went back to Boulder because our experience with the RV park was so good. The one we stayed at was family owned at the time and they were pretty nice.
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19 hours ago, ddm502001 said:
46K eight bag KW Air Ride, not logical nor functional to drop to a single. Would require conversion to some other air ride to make it work, not in budget. Will suffer along as the Blue Beast is until tire of a tandem, will ten either trade out or sell outright and buy a single with a Auto behind to fully license RV.
Dave
OR, run just outside tires and leave it tandem. Thats what I am doing because I dont need the capacity but dont want to change the truck to single, cuz you just never know what tomorrow will bring.
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1 hour ago, rickeieio said:
I believe the Big Boy II rating is 2000#/axle, which is pretty moot since both axles are on the ramp for only a short time.
I thought of that and double checked their website and it says 2000# capacity. I did not see per ramp or per axle.
As to the spacing, well I can solve that if needed but for the advantages of cost and weight(which may change if I modify) I do like them. As a fabricator I even considered building them myself but after the material and labor is factored in, it becomes a wash. The Ramptek are lifetime structural warranty and Big Boy II are 5 years, and I also saw they are made in the USA as well.
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At 2000# combined capacity, that would not be sufficient for an EV Smart and barely would be for a gas model. I personally like to have a safety factor of 50% if possible.
With that in mind I found this: https://www.ramptek.com/products/ramptek-12-aluminum-bi-fold-utv-ramps
3200# capacity, weigh 45# each and American made. Oh, and did I mention they cost less! And what I like is that the rails are below the sides so that if you steer crooked, then you should be able to feel that and correct unlike the others that are flat all the way across.
Winner, winner chicken dinner.
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I'm at the point where it is time to get some ramps. What model are you all using? I see some at Discount Ramps BUT they cant be the only choice or vendor. As a fabricator, am also considering building my own but would like a model to follow with perhaps some "enhancements".
What say you?
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Not to judge anyones opinion, but we each have to become educated with what our personal situation is and how it applies to what we are doing and then decide to address it so that when WE are asked questions about how we came to have the type of license, classification etc. we know the answers, not "well this guy told me that I didnt need it". The ticket or other accountability will have our name on it, so know what you know and then decide how you will choose.
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I had this happen and used cooking spray to lube the valve. It would get stuck open against the rubber seal. It isnt a cure all but does help for a while esp if you cant immediately attend to it, it will allow the valve to close. And it is non-toxic.
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Gotta find out who made the windows for Volvo. Sometimes parts are proprietarty but not always. I found some slides seals for my Teton and after talking to the inside sales folks, come to find out that they supplied some seals to Teton although not sure if it was for my year/model.
It just takes patience and some research. Posting here will sometimes reap some tidbits of info
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1 hour ago, Steve from SoCal said:
Is there an actual switch like a micro switch or something in the shifter that determines when the shifter is in neutral?
I wish I knew what it is and where it is. I am thinking about if I can locate it, then perhaps jumper it out to isolate it as the culprit or not.
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On 9/30/2022 at 3:27 AM, lappir said:
Will the starter turn over the motor
Not getting any attempt from the starter. Kinda expected that IF it was a battery issue, then I would hear the starter trying or the solenoid clicking, but nothing like that. Just the dash going dark when turning the key to attempt to start. Which is partly why we are looking at some anti-theft interlock. Neutral safety displays on dash and anit-theft blinking light continues, BUT with the OEM key, I was able to get the anti-theft to go out, although neutral safety display stayed and dash still went dark upon turning the key to start.
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It is a D13/IShift and the neutral safety switch is the message on the dash. We believe that the switch is use to disable the starting of the truck as an anti-theft feature. My mechanic found some Volvo explanation for this, so now it appears that I need to get the ECM to recognize the chip key.
Not sure what AMT stands for.
Why is diesel still high?
in HDT
Posted
I see those fuel surcharges on my invoices for materials in my construction business, but I have yet to see them reduce when diesel price goes down like $2/gal. I understand the concept of passing those costs on to the customer BUT when I am working on fixed price bid jobs, I have to find ways to increase my efficiencies to offset the $ that my net profit gets hit with. It would really help if we would all realize that at some point in time, work will slow down because companies will choose to reduce projects, either new construction or maintenance, due to higher costs that affect their bottom line(GP) and we will all be affected to higher degree than we are today. Sometimes that includes turning down jobs because the travel & per diem costs outway the opportunity to pay my overhead and those pesky surcharges.
We all need to work together to flatten many of these inflation increases and when people talk about large corporations needing to return certain % profits, understand that many of us may own stakes in those companies too. IRAs are used to invest in funds that may include some of those companies. So when I say "we" I mean all of we. We all enjoy lower prices and complain about higher prices, so working at changing some of our old habits and behaviors can be a part of the solutions needed to soften this economy. This is not a political statement but rather one of choosing to be part of the problem or part of the solution. Either way, we are all feeling the same pain at the pump.