rpsinc

On 7/15/2023 at 1:26 PM, RV_ said:

rpsinc?

Checking in to see if you want anything from me, Derek?

I dont usually spend much for windshield screens but I did for my 730: https://www.raneystruckparts.com/volvo-vn-vnl-window-covers-sun-shades/  and I am really glad I did opt for this one.  Works very well.

I did not see mentioned that a day cab will likely be more difficult to register as an RV due to the lack of space for the accomodations needed to qualify for this use.  Perhaps it could be registered as a private truck but I have no experience with this.

4 hours ago, dblr said:

Henry, I always enjoy following along on your threads and build projects, sometimes I learn as I follow sometimes it goes over my head sometimes I get a good laugh, but when I get a question, I can usually look back and find the answer. Thanks to you and many other folks here we have always been pleased with our HDT decision. I knew when we bought my first upgrade was going to be our ET and knew it was a great upgrade, thanks again for all you have done to help many here!!!!

I second that sentiment!

14 hours ago, wmorrispilot said:

Do you have one for sale?

 

Yes I do.  

3 hours ago, sandsys said:

This is the best RV buying advice I have ever seen! It should be reposted everywhere!

Linda Sand

Thanks Linda, it has sure saved me from purchasing those shiny & pretty RVs that I later learned were just shiny & pretty, but didnt hold up to the use I intended.

tadibrothers.com  no personal experience just offering info

You may get better traction here: https://www.rvnetwork.com/forum/25-rvs-tows-and-toads-for-sale/

22 hours ago, 4McQueens said:

Some good questions to grill the sales guy with. 

I recommend doing this ONLY IF you are looking for some laughs.  Getting an experienced sales person is not very likely.  My first question was always, what type of rig do you have?  Have you lived in it?

If the answer is no, then that persons opinion doesnt matter and they are there only to facilitate access.  In the last 15+ years, I have NOT bought from an RV lot.  Private party only and I do my own research.  If I am serious and am willing to invest in a substantial rig, then hire an inspector and add your own comments and observations.

NEVER trust any sales person on towing facts or opinions, and dont always trust the towing info from dealers.  I have used Trailer Life's towing Guide with some level of confidence but only as a basis for comparison.

Maybe this serves well for "volunteering" to do repairs.  You may not be the fastest but you will be the cheapest and you will get some experience along the way, and will be of service to the community.  This of course assumes that you have some basic skills to be doing the work anyways, oh and the tools.  HF/HD/Lowes runs are not billable hours for me.

Could also use RMT conduit instead of the PVC/rebar option.  That would also allow crimping the end for bolting, all 1 piece.  Nice idea though.

Well Steve, 

Just filled up my service truck at Costco in Temecula, which has the best price around for Cali, at $4.05.  Earlier this week it was $3.98, a best price its been in a LONG time.  I fueled up at Locklove on my way to Caldwell, ID for the WCR and it was $3.59, a welcome sight for me.

Most other diesel locally is up above $4.50

13 hours ago, Av8r3400 said:

I used a 6-way weather pack plug to a 5-core wire down to my Jackalopee output bus bar.  This is also where I tied in the "safety lights" on the back of the farings.

I tied in  at the Volvo plug and used some SO cord to go to a plastic junction box with a small terminal strip in it.  But my uncomfortable issue is the connections at the light whips to field wiring.  I have some WP multi terminal connectors but the tying in of say the lights on the other side of the bed connection to the lights on this side of the bed and then going to the J-box.  Thats where the Scotchloks are and I want to replace them.

15 hours ago, JGWALES said:

This year we spent about 45 minutes with the main guy there . He worked with the owner fir years before he died. They were dropping off about 60 buckets of paint. He mixes them to create colors close to what he needs. The structure is made of old tree branches and donated bales of hay. Some areas are closed as they are deteriorating. Mud and paint.over the hay. I was told the land on the whole place is owned by the state. There was one offer in the works to buy the whole place , but it fell thru. That would mean eviction and bulldozers. I just learned all this from the visit there. Very interesting

Sounds like a sad ending to a very personal and impassioned project/lifes work perhaps motivation by an unfeeling bureaucracy driven by rules and laws.  Thanks for the update.  I should revisit it before it is gone.

I have read that Salvation Mountain has gotten a couple of offers to buy it.  Since the originator died, it seems that it isnt getting the same maintenance work and that area of the SW is pretty downtrodden, but yes, depends what interests you.  It is certainly a place where people live a different way.

Salton Sea seems to be getting some good things happening as mining for lithium batteries is gaining traction.  It would be nice to get some $ into the area so they can improve it some.  It is rather rural but not good that it is economically impoverished.

I had the same problem when I upgraded my hitch.  Previous owner used that air source and I got the same result, which is OK IF only filling the bags then shutting off the air supply, but I need a continuous supply for my heavier pin and hitch.  So I went to the cab air bag lines, be sure to use the line before the leveling valve, otherwise you have modulated air, and ran that back to my hitch, I used a regulator so I can adjust if needed for different trailers.

That is VERY strong and will resist a significant impact and add to its carrying capacity as well

I have met people who tow with the Gen-Y hitch for bumper pulls.  ALL of them have said, wish I had bought it sooner.

Some bubbles do happen due to the gases in the glue expanding during the curing process BUT if you can grab the membrane and pull it up at the cap, that isnt good.  The glue is a contact type, so when it makes contact 95+% of it should be adhered.

Glenns suggestion is correct, there are things that can be done, but you paid to have it done already, and if you arent satisfied, why isnt the shop striving to satisfy their customer?  Rather they are giving you excuses.  Contact adhesives attach 2 materials by contact, clearly you are not having that condition.

On 5/13/2023 at 7:10 PM, Av8r3400 said:

This is a dandy little turn signal, running, brake and reverse light that RVH's Jack Mayer turned me onto, so we have a bit of an upgrade along with all the repairs.

What connectors did you use?  I am not a fan of Scotchlok for this application but used them in my recent frame lengthen, hitch replacement, light upgrade project.  Would like to use something that is NOT prone to failure with vibration.

Just bought a TS and was available to ship right away after they added the 3rd bag with $65 shipping.  The ET was out 4-6 weeks before I could get an answer as to availability and I have heard that some are seeing 14-16 weeks for 1.  Well I didnt want to wait and I had a TS in the past and it was suitable for what I wanted to use it for.  Oh, and the shipping to me was about $475 and they were priced about $1500 more than the TS was at just under $4000.  32K# capacity and 7500 pin capacity.  Worked for what I wanted.  So now its installed and pulling.

Looking for a manual for my Brake Smart controller.  New to me NH has disc brakes and I need to reduce brake application.  Not sure what the M or E functions do as well as the arrows.  Have looked through the resource guide as well as called the # shown there, all without success.

19 hours ago, Sculptor said:

You guys know more. But….  Here goes,  I heard the vent tubes on my gen 2 get clogged and cause fuel problems.  Each tank vent tube has a kind of a breather or filter on the end.   When the breather gets clogged or malfunctions the engine can’t get fuel. The solution is to clip the end off.  Leave the raw end hanging. 
This might be bad info or not apply to your truck, Carl. Just something I ran across on FB.  

Might this thought point to a vacuum issue rather than getting air into the fuel system.  If the vent is plugged then NO AIR is available to fill the tanks when the engine is using fuel.  Perhaps just remove the filter for a test and see if it runs longer?  Although I would be surprised that the short run times you are experiencing would be enough to starve the engine of fuel but priming it could force enough fuel to let the engine run for a short time as you described.

Just another direction.  Seems that it could be tested without any cost.

Do some research on that Workhorse chassis as they havent made those in quite some time and that 8.1L Vortec engine is a good one, it does have its own personality and I am not sure what parts availability is.  Not sure how many miles they are going before needing some engine work.  I think they had some exhaust manifold issues but headers can correct that.

18 hours ago, Nigel said:

There is a levelling valve on the cab bags as well so make sure you grab the air before the valve. 

Well, Nigel, while on my back and looking at those lines, I wondered about that very thing.  Yep, before the valve and pulled a brand new air line from the valve input to the regulator at the new TS hitch.  Works like a champ.  1 item done on my list of a few hundred.  Dad used to tell me that a man walked around the world 1 step at a time.  Well, I am steppin'!!