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Well it looks like the Tesla purchase of Solar City is a go. With the Gigafactory opened or opening this month the PowerWall and Solar cell charging for Tesla could be a fast money maker while the model 3 effort is underway.

"Google has designed an Android app developer course for people who've never programmed." Now that claim encompasses a lot of hooey in most areas but his one looks to be genuine. Excerpt: "If you have an idea for an app but don't know the first thing about building it, Google has the course for you. Launched on Wednesday, the Google Android Basics Nanodegree offers to teach beginners how to build a simple Android app in Java. There are no prerequisites. Google says the target student is anyone who's used a smartphone to surf the web. All of the individual courses that make up the Nanodegree are available online for no charge, Google said, while Udacity offers additional paid services. The course material, developed by Google, is hosted on learning platform Udacity and builds on earlier programs such as the Android Nanodegree for Beginners. The basics course takes around four weeks if the student commits six hours a week and upon completion they'll have created two basic apps built in Android Studio. "Google, in partnership with Udacity, is making Android development accessible and understandable to everyone, so that regardless of your background, you can learn to build apps that improve the lives of people around you," Google announced on its developer blog. It consists of three lessons, two practice tasks, and several projects where students build simple apps, such as a score counter app, a quiz app, and a single screen app. The lessons cover design layout using XML, using Java to make an app interactive, and working with the Android Framework and Control Flow to get a taste of Object Oriented Programming. They'll also learn how to interact with Web APIs, and use an SQLite database. While making big bucks off mobile apps isn't easy, and getting an app noticed is even harder, Udacity highlights there are 3,000 open Android developer jobs on LinkedIn." Wow! Talk about a possible for folks that are looking to work on the road! Start before retiring and get one good app built and making money and take it from there. Here is the full article with active links and related articles: http://www.zdnet.com/article/google-launches-android-programming-course-for-absolute-beginners/?ftag=TRE17cfd61&bhid=19724681974700635514865380622813 Here is the Udacity page to start the course: https://www.udacity.com/course/android-development-for-beginners--ud837 For those even remotely interested I'd read all the drop down bullets on that Udacity page.

Ours did that just before blowing the compressor. However we had had a dead short several weeks before when staying at a friend's place overnight. His extension cord for his 30 amp circuit that he used to hook us up fried and it actually started my surge suppressor on my computer on fire! I ripped it out and threw it outside, no damage at the time. Two weeks later when it got warm enough to need the A/C, the A/C compressor failed. Ours was doing exactly as you describe until it froze. We had to replace the A/C on our second rig as well, but it was a different issue with a badly installed copper high side line rubbing where it went through the shroud and was secured to a sharp hole with no rubber grommet. Blew the charge then a year later failed after we replaced the line and refilled it

Smitty! Dang I missed all the folks that posted after mine. Sorry. That is what comes from using on show new content and then missing a few days. Yes I did and do a complete sanitizing shock of my systems every six months to annually. Annually when we used exclusively our fresh water tank and were filling with fresh water regularly. But the chlorine ceases its function within a couple of days. As long as no untested surface water is consumed, I believe that our North American water supplies in the US, Canada, and Alaska, municipal, RV park, and well water away from fracking, are safe.water supplies in the US, Canada, and Alaska. I think everyone who tries the Culligan system will like it. The spigot does hold water from capillary action and we cleaned/sanitized it too.

Ed, You'll like the Culligan system. The install seems too simple but in several years those push in connectors never leaked.We were full time and then we are now off the road and use them in our house. Rather than do any kind of storage why not just buy two and move the filter from the house to the rig and back? They do just twist off and I never had a leak swapping them out. Then you can replace when they are due. We've only done the EZ1 as we agree with you. I was a Med Lab Technologist for three years and we would do pathogen and incubations of water supplies on base. As well as run the autoclaves and produce our own distilled water. I was at an F-16 base and "The F-16 fighter jet uses hydrazine to fuel the aircraft's emergency power unit" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrazine I also did not want to waste my filter on dishwashing. So now we get all out drinking water from the charcoal filtered water dispenser in the fridge front.

RV Roadie's rule 1 for safe drinking water - Don't drink chunky water! We used the water in our twice yearly sanitized fresh water tank and never had issues, and had a whole RV filter system, first the inline hose Camco system which got rid of all taste issues fine. Later we switched to the two housing system described below with a cheap sediment filter in the first housing and the Carbon filter in the second with a brass nipple and fittings. Had I known of the Culligan system for around $30 we would have used them in the RV, under the sink only, as filtering the chlorine out of the water going to the water heater and the other plumbing where we don't drink from per se like the bathroom shower and. I use only city water and well water known to be potable and treated in the case of city water. But much of it has some really bad taste, though potable, and safe to drink. Jack's and Zulu's system are still not perfect for perfect water all the time. But they are near that. Boiling at a rolling boil for one minute is the only 100% sure way to kill all virus and bacterial contaminants. http://www.health.ny.gov/environmental/water/drinking/boilwater/information_for_all_consumers.htm Despite the rarity of outbreaks in known good municipal and RV park potable water systems, situations like the above can happen suddenly, be fixed, and you never know it. Flint Michigan is an example of ignorant state leaders posturing irresponsibly. However by the time an infection ids discovered can be too late to take action. You could be getting a drink out of a public water fountain or drinking soft drinks with ice at a mall or restaurant. Having said all that, like you, I was just concerned with the taste of the water. To get rid of chlorine tastes and most others you need a charcoal element to the filter/s to adsorb the chlorine and some other tastes. We use this now: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000THIZUG/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me= Simple, EZ install, and very effective after we used them for the past six years or so. Even better we had the choice of using several filters each with a more effective range of organisms and chemicals they are effective against, and chemicals and other sediments. They have EZ - 1 that we use, essentially just for taste and sediment and it does great, cheap at 10-12 bucks each replacement. then the EZ - -3, which does more, and the EZ - 4 which does even more. The more they filter the more often they need to be replaced. I like the Culligan system because it looks great and works well for our needs. The filters can be changed with the water on as they twist to off before you can pull them down and off. Then after you replace it you just insert and twist to the other direction, arrows on the plastic top show on - off. Go here to this page and scroll all the way to the bottom and the specs for each of the EZ - 1, 3, 4, are listed. Now in a home we have the filtered water in the door of the fridge for our already chilled drinking water. We put granite counter tops in the new house kitchen and I have hesitated to get into the tools and risk of drilling a hole in it. I am going to but, may have to hire out as that may be cheaper than buying the specialized tools for that. Why not just hook up an inline filter under the counter to the faucet? Because then it filters all the dishwashing, rinsing, and hand washing, water too which needs no filtration as we have a dishwasher now. The life straws and other survival water filters are a good thing to have on hand but water flow is not very good. The Culligan systems are the best bang for the buck today for me just for good tasting water. When we were fulltiming for 7 years I built my own whole RV system but later dropped it in favor of under the sink. Why? Because the Chlorine in the water was good for the RVs plumbing and shower fixtures so they were not growing algae and other red/green slime producing organisms. But if you want to filter all the water, here is the least expensive that does make water taste good: $16 bucks and no installation. I did use one for six months at a time, and it was fine, here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camco-RV-40043-TastePure-In-Line-Fresh-Water-Filter-System/111508897186?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36795%26meid%3D70beb35911bb4756b004cc34c4fa58d1%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D110980159527 Build your own? Here's my list from my 2002 article: "Go on down to Home Depot/Lowes/WalMart and pick up the following: Two of the plastic $14.95 whole house water filter housings http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Whole-Home-Water-Filtration-System/100471282 One pack of the matching paper sediment filters (two pack for about $4.99 - $12.99) One pack of the matching charcoal filters (Two pack for about $9.99) http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Household-Replacement-Filters/100034332?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-100471282-_-100034332-_-N One 3/4 in brass standard pipe nipple threaded at both ends and 4 or 5 inches long to connect the two housings Teflon tape to seal them if you don't have any ($.99 or less I think-don't use sealant or dope) One each 3/4 to standard garden hose brass adapters - one male, and one female Two hose repair ends (plastic/brass) One each male and female. Connect the two housings with the brass nipple between them to make it a two filter system, using the Teflon tape to seal the threads. Be sure to have the nipple attached to the “out” flow indicator on the first filter, and the “in” flow indicator on the second filter. Attach the ¾” “pipe thread to garden hose brass adapters” to each end of the two housing assembly with Teflon tape, female on the “in” side of the water flow (They are marked for the direction of flow on the tops) and the male on the other end of the second housing, where the arrow points to “out” flow. It is important to have clean hands when handling the filters and the inside surfaces of the filter housings. Install a paper filter in the first housing to screen out sand and sediment, and a charcoal filter in the second one to do the final taste filtering. Now put it under your RV in a convenient place where it will be in the shade. Take your water hose and cut off the male end of the hose long enough to allow the filters to be connected to the RV water supply inlet with no kinking. Put the female hose connector on that short hose, you left the stock male on it. Your remaining longer hose remnant has only the female left on it so use the male hose repair connector on it, so you can continue to use the hose too. Voila! You now have RV's discount water supply filter system, which, if purchased at an RV store would cost three times as much. It won't restrict your pressure unless you don't change filters every three months or so. The filters are rated at 30,000 gallons, and no RVr I know can use that much in three months. When you break camp you just disconnect the long hose from it and store as normal. The short hose is disconnected from the RV and connected to the other side of the filter bank hose that was connected to the spigot end, to prevent contamination by debris or bugs of your filters and hose, and also to prevent leakage in your basement/storage area. If you want the super filtration with absolute 1 micron filtration to weed out most possible organisms, they also have the 30-dollar filter cartridges, but I don't think those are necessary. I have seen RV water filters for RVs at up to 300 bucks for the system and the replacement cartridges can cost from 30 to 150 dollars. You can get pretty much the same filtering from the above-just select the price you want to pay for replacement filters. The ones I recommend work great for me. The housings can be laid on their side or upright as the water flows either way properly. But keeping em in the shade keeps em from becoming heated by the sun, even worse than the hose does. When changing the filters, always wash the inside of the canisters, and rinse with a little straight bleach, before installing the new filters. Same with the hoses, just pour a little bleach inside, screw the ends together and shake em to coat them, let them sit for 30 mins or so, then rinse thoroughly. I made the mistake of putting a hose up for the season with bleach in it and it ruined it. Remember no filter can remove all bacteria and/or chemicals, but from public use water supplies, they are rarely present. And when they are, you’ll usually be warned about it and will need to boil all drinking water. Never interpret the sometimes misleading statements of many filter manufacturers that their filter will make contaminated water safe. The best claims of 99.9% effectiveness won’t help with 100% contaminated water. If the water is suspect, don’t trust any fast flow filter, or any other type that does not include a distillation system or chemical treatment. Municipal supplies, even if they taste bad, are usually safe. Thus the sediment and taste filters. Hope that helps! I used the cheapest for taste because I always got my water from public tested municipal or good well systems at RV parks. The inline Camco is the easiest to install and use on the end of your hose.

Rich et al. I have been using the RV Atwood CO I referenced above from an eBay seller. Great fast service. and the Atwood is more compact than I expected and looks great. I mounted it behind the bedroom door when open door at eye level I in my home for about a month now and it works great as the peak reading memory works and no false alarms yet thank goodness. I used the old round one with the same new fuel cell technology for the sensor, when we were fulltiming. This one is great quality too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atwood-32703-Digital-Carbon-Monoxide-CO-Gas-Alarm-Detector-Camper-RV-Trailer-/141724540876?hash=item20ff70dfcc:g:mCAAAOSwMmBVrt2R&vxp=mtr

Rich, Good info.

Good comment Trucken. I keep folks on this thread abreast of Tesla and Space X because they are disrupting many areas of trade beyond their obvious main markets. There's lots to be made in suppliers for the tech. If Space X follows through with their partnership for a constellation of LEO communication satellites for broadband and cells. We are in a seriously transitional period where the status quo is again going to be turned on its head. The next five years will be seminal for investors that just watch and act on what is there, not what they want to be there. Tesla is ongoing because they are ongoing with new advances and new models of new tech vehicles. There is a story change monthly. Everything said to be impossible is done, now it is just overcoming the absurd resistance. It's like being a knowledgeable fan at a baseball game talking with friends during the game about what's going on during the game. Then someone complains about talking only about the game during the game. Tesla is a shutout in the offing. Some can't see it coming even pointed out as it runs them over. Rules are changing and the things that worked before don't anymore. There's room for enthusiasts in every field to share what's happening in their fields that will disrupt.

You're fine HD rider. I interpret that adage as a retort by some when someone long or has not sold their current holdings in a company claiming how much money they have made. It is a given when I or another say that our shares have made X number of dollars with the unspoken if I sold my shares today. There are others that say they lost money after they sold low. Think about that. If you read my posts all through here from 2011 to now you will see I never talked about losing money on Tesla when it took one of its steep dips. Instead I let friends know if it is what I consider a buy price. See I don't lose money until I sell either. The oft repeated axiom to buy low sell high seems obvious until you watch a major market drop. Folks holding stocks like IBM and GE are in no danger of them going completely under, just that the market IS mostly very nervous people. Those types really need to stay out because they will sell low and then even if they sold at half a drop, they usually don't get their nerve up until everyone says it is safe. The market swings up and down usually with a few years between Bear and Bull markets. For example I took a position despite being set with a retirement and no debt including our properties designing and selling steel buildings ands was very successful. I used almost 100% of that compensation in 2007/8/9 to buy USAA funds and property. I was working because it was fun, not because I needed the money. I left them in late 2009 as we had built it up to the point that the owner wanted me to step up and manage the Construction side of the house as well as the marketing, IT, and office tours and management. I was then 58 and decided that I did not want to go back to 18 hour days starting at "Oh my God! It's dark outside O'Clock!" So I retired again. Just in time to take my biz account for my payroll and petty cash that I was closing anyway and buy into Tesla. that was 2010 and I almost used it for a 15kw Solar system but held off and am glad I did. When I do cash in some or all my Telsa remaining shares I can build it then as well as the prices for Solar have come down a lot. So all I can say now is that I already cashed in enough when it hit $90s to take my original investment and a token profit off the table. So I can say I made money already, not even counting what I would make if I sold with it at $250 today. There are much higher risks like shorting, not for me. IT involves a tiny bit of market timing and no one can time the market. I do not go to the casinos here either. And there are other safeguards you can use to buy more if it goes down to a certain price, or sell if it goes above a certain price. I am indefinitely long. I reviewed my investment with them in 2013 as I said I would, then again after the Model S was in full production. I am now holding off selling any until the Model 3 is in steady production and the Gigafactory is in full production. Likely 2018 for both to have gotten ramped up to a steady stream of production. That is my thinking, does that help explain it? Welcome to the financial forums HD!

I took all of yours as supportive Jim! See what happens when one could be taken either way gets taken wrong. Jim I was agreeing with your post. I think it was another here because it was not on the forum thread but in a PM or an email. I think it was Smitty but I really forget. It may have been you. That has been three years ago. Lets all just relax folks. I am fine with Ron and said I am sorry. As I said I did not expect that from him. And he said he didn't mean so I accept that. Jim I am unambiguous and do not play games like only one other here I know of. Jim I count you among my best friends here on the forums along with quite a few others. Like my over reaction to Ron, I make it clear when I feel I have been mocked or demeaned. I take everyone as truthful until they prove otherwise. If you lost money or made it, good for you. But both of you Ron and Jim, thanks for caring above and beyond just acquaintances. I owe ya both a tour of the new house and a cuppa or drink if you ever are crossing on I-20 in the Shreveport area. More than a few other friends have.

Thanks Ron, Thanks for letting me know your intent. Just the post order threw me. Sorry pal. My bad. I wave off that stuff as just in fun too most times. No excuse either. My annual dermatology "I'm just going to freeze that" appointment went well and instead of looking like a maniac attacked me with an ice pick, or I have some incurable acne, I only had a few face spots to burn with cold, and a couple on my back. Doc said I'm doing better than most. So life's good, my bad, life's good again. Thanks Rich. I'm back. Yes, I over-reacted.

Jim, I agree it has been a good run so far, and I believe much more to come. Again the market surprises. And we've both done well. BTW, if the person who emailed me way back when and advised me to take my principal off the table early, for which I am still grateful wants to uncloak you have my permission. If not, then thank you so very much for helping a raw beginner out when I asked. Another advised me to learn how to short and when I looked at the loss possibilities with what I knew about Tesla I am glad I dropped that idea. There are a lot of "soiled shorts" on Tesla forums.

Kirk, You are truly amazing! I hope you are alright because your posts are getting weirder lately. If you can't talk straight why all the innuendo? What are you afraid of saying?

Ron, I would have thought that personally mocking me or anyone was beneath you. Apparently not. That was meant to be hurtful to someone who has always been willing to help here, including you. If you think I have mocked you, please post the link to that post here. You know you won't find it, not because I am careful, but because I am a nice guy. I won't return your lack of respect in turn. I have a wonderful life. If yours is less than you would like, I wish you better. I don't wish you the same as you wish me, as some say. That would make me petty enough to try to demean the many life winners here in this wonderful organization too. See, the thread has my track record. The 1494.1176470588236% (increase with today's price of 254 and my initial buy at $17)increase of Tesla or thereabouts proven. Yes I am playing with the house money. Yes I am fine with the risk, no fear. If I lose it because I was wrong then so be it. I am a big boy. It was discretionary money from the start. I am retired military and built up property and other holdings cash or paid off in a year or three. No debt of any kind. It's when I win that the worst in a few others seems to come out. But my friends are genuinely happy for us. Apparently you will not be counted in that group. For those whose savings are their retirement then it IS different. Good luck to you Ron, really.

Since I've been here in Cindona's thread since 2011, and a lot of this older thread is about Tesla, I thought I'd update the folks who read it. Last Thursday Elon Musk addressed the world live on streaming video from teslamotors.com with the debut of the consumer's priced ($35k) Tesla Model 3. They also opened up the reservation system so folks who wanted a Model 3 soonest could put a refundable $1000.00 deposit and get a place in line. It is great also that he made them non transferable which eliminates scalping by unscrupulous folks buying a reservation and selling it later for more than the $1k. Was the debut a success? You bet! How many folks made reservations? The latest from today's WSJ is: "Tesla Motors Says Reservations for Model 3 Surpass 276,000 Model 3 will be a rear-wheel-drive car with all-wheel-drive as an option, CEO says Reservations for Tesla Motors Inc. ’s Model 3 electric car have now topped 276,000 since the company began taking deposits on March 31. The figure is staggering and could represent both an evolution for Tesla and for electric cars. Tesla CEO Elon Musk gave an update on reservations on Twitter late Saturday evening, after updating the figure several times since Thursday evening’s unveiling of the prototype Model 3, due out in late 2017. The Model 3 is a sedan capable of seating five and going 215 miles on a charge and 0-60 mph in less than 6 seconds, starting at a price of $35,000. “All efforts focused on accelerating the ramp,” Mr. Musk said in a tweet, his standard form of communication. Mr. Musk also said the company is planning to send out gifts to people who waited in line at Tesla stores as a token of appreciation. To give a sense on the scale of the backlog, BMW sold about 95,000 3-series sedans in 2015 in the U.S. The Model 3 is roughly the same size and price and would likely outsell the U.S.’s best-selling compact luxury car in its first year of production if Tesla can make enough cars. Mr. Musk, on Sunday, said on Twitter that the Model 3 will be a rear-wheel-drive car with all-wheel-drive as an option." That whole article is here: http://www.wsj.com/articles/tesla-motors-says-reservations-for-model-3-surpass-276-000-1459724101?mod=yahoo_hs The biggest questions after the fact I have seen are folks that missed Elon saying that the Supercharger network free charging for trips is included in the $35k price without any incentives or rebates or tax rebates. And the other is thinking erroneously that the hardware for the autopilot feature are extra. Not true, the hardware is included in the base price. However some options will be extra later if wanted just like any car. Well not exactly because other cars can't send upgrades over the Internet and add features, performance improvements, and most firmware replacements over the Internet too. If you missed the debut live because of bandwidth constraints and want to watch it when you are where you can it is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4VGQPk2Dl8 The mention of Autopilot is 10:58 minutes into the video, and the Supercharging included in the price at 13:00 into the video. The shorts are going to be soiled next week and in the coming year, as before, IMO. I am so tickled to be a part of it! 2018 will be an eye opener too. No car has ever debuted with that kind of response. And for the few that start on about how most of those will never buy, just remember that $1000.00 gets to stay with Tesla with no interest paid for another 18 months to two years. I'm sure some may drop out with another year or two in backlog until the factories are ramped up and churning them out to meet demand. The guess is $340 by late this year through mid 2017. We'll see. I sure wish more of my friends and family bought in from the start. I did get my FIL to go in for mid 5 figures when Tesla was at 90. My son waited until $145. It has been a great week in our house. Even the family member with Alzheiner's was totally lucid more often than not. We've been most fortunate and grateful for each other.

Rich, I'm pretty sure all smoke detectors chirp day and night when they need a new battery, maybe like me, you only hear that irritating chirp at nigh in bed? I was exposed to light to heavy ground weapon fire for the last 20 years of my career and a fungal inner ear infection last year has me considering a hearing aid. My upper frequencies have been gone for decades. I can't hear the alarms on my Casio G-Shock watches and all around me can. Not even held to my ear since just before military retirement. I buy separate CO and gas detectors/alarms. So I can put the CO on a nightstand or on a wall about shoulder to eye level. And the gas detector for propane within six inches or so of the floor. For RVs I make sure they have been tested for confined spaces, which includes testing at extreme hot and cold tempos, which is what RVs require. Most folks don't read the fine print and buy a detector/alarm that is not tested and made for confined spaces. Read the fine print on the package before you buy if buying at Wal-Mart or local. They will specifically state that they are not for use in an RV, and that is not just legalese. For an RV, only buy UL listed for RV use. The CO alarms can be set off by humidity as well. I really prefer the battery operated Atwood for the CO detector as it has a 7 year warranty on the digital one. They expect a ten year life instead of the five years from other brands that need to be replaced every five years. The biggest reason for the Atwood is the LCD display and peak level memory. The LCD readout shows current levels and if it alarmed while you were out it will recall the highest peak reading. That can tell you how serious the CO detected was. I like being able to move a battery operated one around as a sniffer so if it does have a low level alarm I can track it down closer to the source with a little effort. From eBay $49.99. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atwood-32703-Digital-Carbon-Monoxide-CO-Gas-Alarm-Detector-Camper-RV-Trailer-/141724540876?hash=item20ff70dfcc:g:mCAAAOSwMmBVrt2R&vxp=mtr For those with a hard wired detector whether dual or only propane, here is the Atwood 12v hard wired Propane detector for $34.99 from eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-ATWOOD-PROPANE-ALARM-LP-GAS-DETECTOR-12V-LP-36719-/351643805549?hash=item51df9aa76d:g:JxkAAOSwjVVVu4X~&vxp=mtr I want the CO detector working even if the 12v power goes out in my RV for any reason. Why? Because unlike Propane, which has an odorant, Ethyl or Methyl Mercaptin added to it which means we can smell and detect it 99.999999999999999% of the time, CO is odorless and colorless and you don't know it in some cases until it is too late. I just keep up with the dates of purchase and change all batteries annually on the new year in home and camper, and replace propane detectors and non Atwood brands of CO detectors every 5 year regardless, and I guess every 7 with the Atwood. For those with a built in 12 volt wired in old detector this propane can go in the same place if it is near the floor. Then the other can go wherever you choose. If anyone runs a heater that vents the combustion by products inside instead of to the outside, the portable CO detector can be close by on a nightstand. Indoors Propane is heavier than air, so, like a liquid, it pools and flows to the lowest place/s. Hope that helps. Safe travels!

Right Bud! (But ya can't sell what you didn't buy) Smitty bought near the low and set a sell on a $40.00 gain or something, so he's made some. Me? I'm boringly long, happily having fun watching all the made up fairy tales of the shorts and transport change deniers. Remember, I sold enough at $90 to take back 100% of my initial investment, plus a token $5k profit, and keep almost 4/5 of my shares, so I can now stay long until the Model 3 is in full production and the gigafactory is cranking out the KWs, having already made a profit and playing with house money.

For folks wondering, had they bought Tesla on its recent drop to $142 as I'd mentioned, they would have made a month later almost 90 dollars a share as of yesterday. I know Smitty did.

Propane is heavier than air and as such will pool down low, like an invisible light liquid. Is yours placed low and within a foot of the floor? It may be detecting a minute amount of propane leakage. When it goes off if you can smell the Ethyl Mercaptin they use as an odorant, check close to the floor. As well turn on your burners just to check that the Propane you are using does indeed smell like garlic. Some bad batches of Mercaptins (Both Ethyl and Methyl are used) or old batches can lose their odor and are very dangerous because folks cannot smell it. Failing that you can contact Propane suppliers/Fire Dept locally and perhaps rent a gas sniffer? Some Fir Depts. will do a check free of charge as they cost a lot less than responding to CO deaths. If no minute leak exists then I would definitely contact the company and see if they have a recall on them or will replace one that is defective. You should get five year minimum use out of the detector/alarm sensor. One other thing is a sensor can be poisoned from being on the road in traffic emitting normal amounts of exhaust gases. This is why many or most detectors say not for use in RV in fine print on the package. While some folks have gotten by with the home and mobile home detectors, some also find out they got the wrong one when the warranty is voided. Usually a leak that is dangerous from a broken pipe or other major leak will cause the check valve in the valve that connects to your propane tank or cylinder on the end of the pigtail to shut flow down from high flow down to low flow, and none of your RV gas appliances would work.. It will cut off any large loss of pressure when opening the valve on the tank/cylinder to use it. You'll find it, let us know what it turns out to be. I'll put my money on a poisoned sensor first, and less likely bad propane odorant or a tiny leak near the detector/alarm.

It is not just taxis. The sales figures for Luxury car sales, the only class Tesla makes until the Model 3 later this year or early 2017 as planned originally. I expect the same thing to happen when the Model 3 comes out. The Bolt will be directly compared and I have no doubt of equally price Chevy and Tesla cars compared side by side, for some of the same reasons that GM had to be bailed out by taxpayers, I doubt the Bolt will do anything but disappoint. But we will see soon won't we? Excerpt: Tesla is Suffocating Rivals and Gaining Market Share PREFACE A lot of the information we are about to cover could feel like a surprise, and in many ways it is. Tesla’s market size is more than three times as large as previously forecasted. TESLA IS DOMINATING U.S. sales figures for 2015 reveal that Tesla’s Model S rose to become the number one top seller within the U.S. market for large luxury vehicles, overtaking the Mercedes-Benz S-Class for the first time. Here’s the incredible data (highlighting added): All of these vehicles start around the same $70,000 as the Model S. Just so we’re perfectly clear on this data: Every other luxury sedan saw falling sales while Tesla saw a 51% increase. Tesla’s Model S is now the single best selling large luxury vehicle and now owns more than 25% of the market. (Source: electrek). Tesla has already displaced the hallowed Mercedes brand. TESLA’S SECRET Those numbers presented above are basically a mathematical impossibility if not for one stunning secret: Not everyone buying the Model S was an owner of a $70,000 car before. In 2015, Jefferies conducted a survey of Model S owners and discovered that nearly 40% had previously owned a car that cost less than $40,000 (Business Insider). That’s borderline ludicrous. Tesla is not only moving people up – it’s moving people up by staggering amounts. Here’s why that reality changes everything. Here is Tesla’s all-time revenue chart:" See full article in link below for the charts and graphics, as well as links to the sources and related articles go here: http://ophirgottlieb.tumblr.com/post/139993954934/tesla-is-suffocating-rivals-and-gaining-market

Well Tesla is climbing fast. Had anyone shorted it at its low they are going to be in big trouble. I had said it was a buy opportunity and it looks like the usual Tesla roller coaster. We actually like the lows as when they really have a bunch of sell offs we get another buy opportunity. My price is now 120 for a buy, and it just missed that. Tesla is here to stay. The shorts got squeezed once and I believe we are about to see it again in spades. Anyone who bought at the low of $140.00 will have made 38 bucks a share as it is now at 178. If the pattern holds true as I know it will, it will hit some plateaus and hit 276 again if not finally breaking $300.00 with the unveiling/preview/status of the Model 3 in March starting the next rally. Watch. And read this thread from the beginning newcomers and see how easy it is to read what Musk plans in public announcements, then bank on it being executed more or less on time but executed nevertheless.

Tomorrow should be interesting for everybody. The "Chicken Littles" have begun running around in circles again proclaiming the sky is solid and falling. The longs with stocks they are sure won't be bankrupting regardless, are scraping together some liquid assets to buy low if the opportunity presents, the shorts, as usual, are getting all revved up about being down. The overseas markets are crazed and the price of a gallon of gas goes down even as the Saudis form a middle eastern alliance of 24 countries to fight terrorism there, and held a giant exercise including Turkey. What would you buy if the price suddenly halved?

Sorry Jim I meant to answer earlier but yes you have talked about several options like that and shorts in the past. I am just not into investing in induividual stocks. Tesla has been the only one and that after following Musk for about 10 years until they finally went public. I am not into any obligations that could end up making the investment risky. I do not consider it risky because he will, and has, always executed his long term plans, and only announces them once he has the course charted. So thanks for the thought. Did you do that? If so, I hope it works out. Me I am just boring long. At the moment we just did a house and our liquid is at our minimums for comfort. I will get more but not $12k at this time. Maybe half that. I am much more comfortable riding the oscillations of the stock long. I just wish I had a crystal ball that worked. Then I could have sold out at 270, and bought now or soon and double the shares I hold almost. I do not think bankruptcy is a danger. We will see in the next year or two. It works for us.

Tesla is way down and the financials come out next Wednesday I believe. and then it will fall more, stabilize then rise, or rise from there. It will IMO rise again but I have been wrong before in my life, just not about Tesla. If it gets down to 120 or less I am buying more again. Tesla is very volatile as you can see today. The shorts are having a field day saying they were right just like they did in the September to November Telsa drop from 270 to 120 in 2013. I wasn't fast enough to get it at 120 and did get a block for 130 or so. ($135?) We'll see. I want to remind folks that it is volatile enough that unless you have held it long since it IPO'd in mid 2010, it could aggravate any stress or heart disorders you might have regularly! . We just grin and hope for a buy opportunity and it looks like it is coming. Been through this at the $50, $100 $185, and twice now in the $270 range, give or take 25 bucks points in 2010-2012, and 2012-2016. I am in long and only regret I didn;t sell high to rebuy twice as much at this point. But I did that at 90 to try it and then it only went up. Since I took back $5k more as a profit, I just upgraded my cars, had $10k left over, bought some SCTY, sold it for not enough volatility and bought more Tesla when it was down in 2013, and now have almost 3/4ths of our original shares, and are playing with only a tiny bit of our money. I am not encouraging anyone to buy Tesla because if it tanks you are on your own. But since this ride I am still on was a big part of this thread from 2011 to date, today I thought I'd update everyone. Safe travels and trades!