rickeieio

Good observation Steve. The Resource Guide has helped me plenty over the years, but at times can be a bit frustrating if you don't think to look in the right place. Plus, Mark's not going to be tending it forever, and who will step up as caretaker? The top of the forum really makes a lot of sense. Someday, we might even have separate lines for Volvo, PACCAR, etc.

Not to speak for Carl, but I took what he wrote to be that either a new "pin" be started, OR include in the Resource Guide. Either way would be better than nothing.

But the t-shirts shrank while in the drawer.

Not quite what you asked, but here's a tip I used for years...... Most of us have Volvos. Dealers aren't on every street corner. But, Mack trucks use many of the same drive components, so perhaps you can find a Mack dealer near you. I used a small local Mack dealer for all my parts needs. Close to home, helpful, and WAY cheaper than the nearest Volvo dealer. It helped that I also had a Mack for my farm truck. Unfortunately, dealerships are consolidating, with many now handling both brands. But you might get lucky.......

Carl, the old "Risk v. Benefit" idea doesn't factor in stress or worry. Peace of mind becomes more important with age (and you have plenty of age), and also as we get older, we likely find we can avoid risk by throwing large sums of money at the problem. You've been very fortunate to have never had any large expenses in what, 12 years? A few $K now is still cheap. So, each individual needs to find where they're comfortable in spending v. worrying. Our solution doesn't fit a lot of people. Yes, we spent a chunk-o-change on a truck, but were able to build our own bed. Net cost, after deducting the income from selling the old truck, would barely buy a decent 7-8 y/o dually. YMMV.

Wellll, we've had a few "inconvenient" and "unscheduled" repairs. After I had the truck in, what to me, was pretty good order, DW declared she didn't trust it for long runs. So, we let it have a new home and bought a much newer, but not so much fewer miles, truck. We all know folks who have trucks with LOTS of miles, and little trouble. And then we know some who have fewer miles and much trouble. You're retired. Embrace the unexpected, Besides, break downs are another opportunity to make new friends.😁

Have you asked them? And, how much would you save by having it re-built v. buying from dealer? It might be easier and nearly same cost to just let shop di it all.

It's been 2 years since I priced, but the TrailerSaver, a pretty good hitch, was about $1k cheaper than the ET, top-o-the-heap. I think they were about $3.500,v. $4,500 ish back then. I opted for the ET because, A), we had a TailerSaver and while it did okay, I wanted better, and 2) This truck will very likely be pulling a heavier trailer in a few years.

This is not a cheap game we're playing. Some get lucky and run for years with minimal expenses, and others seem to have a little dark cloud over them. We have had our share of on-the-road repairs, and the two longest/costly were in Cummins shops. Neither fixed the issue, but cost us a total of roughly $11k. That said, we ran our 2001 from 2010 to 2021 and 50k miles with total repair bills of about $25k, and sold the truck for about what we had invested before repairs. Likely cheaper than towing with a dually in the end.

As a side note: I suggest y'all look at your owners manual before getting worried about a little air filter restriction. Most trucks have a restriction indicator on/near the filter housing. It will tell you when to replace or clean your filter. On our farm equipment, the manual says when it indicates service is due, wait until the next servicing, which for us was the next morning. Remember, the more clogged the filter, the better job it does at removing particulate.

My logic: 1) Truck stumbled before dying. Classic sign of sucking air/lack of fuel. 2) Fuel filter low/empty. Was fuller at previous service. You found/repaired a bad check valve. Supports #1. 3) Several pumps of hand primer will get it to run a few seconds, Pump leaking fuel. Likely source of air in system. 4) Early in this process, you found information where a fuel problem caused the same codes you've seen. Thus my recommendation to correct a known problem, (fuel primer), before moving on to more costly electrical parts.

So, eventually we'll have clean, sparkly systems and the plugged filter problem will fade into the sunset. Well, we can hope.

Carl, When they take the truck to the shop, PLEASE ask for a mechanic, not some snot nose "technician". Tell them how the truck stumbled before dying, and that the fuel filter level had dropped. Make sure they correct the fuel pump issue (leaking fuel and sucking air) before firing the money cannon at electrical components like are likely fine. All those codes can be, and likely were, caused when the ECM saw a drop in fuel pressure and subsequent miss-fires as the injectors received air.

I used the heat gun trick on motorcycle body panels. It looked great for a month or two, until the plastic dried out again. Just say'n.......

Not the truck, but.... Yesterday I decided I was tired of looking at the generator exhaust hanging low and too far out from the trailer. So, with a hand full of wrenches, I crawled below to see what I might adjust to correct the alignment of said pipe. I was only mildly surprised to find the previous owners had grafted an exhaust hanger/isolator strap with a piece of cheap pre-punched 1" wide metal strap all fastened to the coach frame by a self drilling, self tapping screw. The silly part, was they'd joined hanger and strap using three grade 8 bolts. Hmmmm. Just one grade 5 would have far exceeded the weight the single screw would support. Some say, "You can't fix stupid." Well, I can, but it'll hurt.

I believe, as David implied, the Pete and KW use the same fitting. But, I've been wrong before......

Yep. On our KW, the factory fitting is on the driver side frame rail by the steer tire. Male is a BH1-61, female is BH1-60. Same as many small farm tractors use for hydraulic couplings. We also have a quick connect fitting at the rear of the cab, plus a glad hand with fittings to back feed the truck.

I'm pretty confident the hand pump is the problem. That said, I've never worked on a Volvo motor, only Cummins and Mack, pre Volvo.

After each prime/bleed cycle, it would run for a few seconds then miss until it quit. It seemed to run a little longer the more we tried, but never more than perhaps 5-6 seconds before sputtering. The fact that were getting air out of the system seems to prove my theory that this is a fuel issue, not electrical. Also, after a few attempts, the engine would catch again on a second try, but not always. One other possible clue is that fuel is leaking our of the hand primer as we pumped it. I don't think that's a good sign, and possibly where air is entering the system. We finally gave up due to worry that we were going to cause a premature demise to the starter.

There's your red flag. The fuel level should never drop. Only way that happens is if air is leaking into filter.

We have red flags, and red herrings. The low fuel in the filter is a BIG red flag. All those messages on the display are herrings. My money's on the o-ring on the top of the Davco letting in air. Been there, fought it for weeks. It took 3-4 days for the filter to drain enough for the motor to suck air.

Carl, silly question, but have you checked your fuel tanks? if someone borrowed all your fuel, you'd be sucking air.

Carl, find your hand primer and pump it. If it pumps easily, it's sucking air. Filling the Davco will supply fuel to the hand pump, but that won't fix the issue.

Pappy always said: "Pack your hat and your wallet. And if you forget the hat, just buy another,"

Scrap's back!!!! You've been missed.