SuiteSuccess

12 hours ago, JPL said:

Carl And Donna    I haven't been on the site in along time and this is the first time I found out about your PL change. Glad it isn't health related but after all you two have done to make the ECR a great get together I know it must be a really important issue with y'all. I really want to thank you for all that you did to make the 5 ECR's we got to attend a really great time. And as you said  we got to meet a great group of people and make a bunch of new friends. We sold Pats Pride and the 5er right after the ECR in 2021. With the price of fuel now maybe we made the right choice at the right time. I miss it but Shirley was ready to get out of "That Big Truck". If you still are able to hit the road upon occasion and you get out our way know that We can put you on the slab with power, h2o,  and blackwater hookup. Take care and know you are in our prayers.  757-646-1686.   Pat and Shirley

 

 

The Old Sailor

Pat & Shirley,

Thanks so much for the kind words and offer.  It’s folks like y’all that make this group special.  Sometimes life takes a turn that you did not expect but you just travel that road and see where it takes you.  Again, for those concerned, it was not related to either of our health status.  We made good friends and hope to continue to see you on the road as circumstances allow.

25 minutes ago, Parrformance said:

Yes

👍

13 hours ago, Parrformance said:

Yes, almost all the sites are pull through and large enough for the truck and trailer and two Jeeps with room leftover.

That does look nice.  Do they allow you to camp even though you may not trail ride?

15 hours ago, bags said:

The last time I heard that noise my leveler valve arm had come loose and my bed was dragging on the truck tires. Fortunately it happened as I was taking off from a stop light. Unfortunately there was no where to pull off the road and my supply of zips ties was exhausted. 45 minutes later and one coat hanger down I had it aired up enough to get me a few miles down the road. My first hint when I got out of the truck was the smell of burned rubber. Good luck. JB

 

Good thoughts.  I haven’t inspected the back suspension system for awhile.  Will put that on my checklist.

19 hours ago, bags said:

Thank you ever so much. JB

 

👍

You may have to enlarge but this is mine.  Heavy duty magnet base from Harbor Freight and short length of pipe. Have used this setup for 13 years with no issues.  Magnet is plenty strong.

https://www.harborfreight.com/66mm-round-magnet-96650.html

On edit this was my original bolted plate which I didn’t like so I changed to the magnet base.

I’m still with Good Sams

7 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

You can't call it a "tranny" anymore. It is a gender neutral, gear changing device.

Now that’s funny, I don’t care who you are.

9 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

I'm pretty sure the noise is from Carl dragging the trailer thru the gravel. When we got to the ECR this year, I thought they were digging trenches to lay a new 12" water line but no, it was just Carl getting into his site....😄😄😎

Hey, do what I can to help the campgrounds keep from renting a trencher. 😜

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

Yes.  Low frequency vibration that sounds like the unused gears rattling.  We've had a few trucks that did this, pulling a hill, loaded, coming out of a field. Once the rpm comes up a little, it goes silent.

Hmm.  Thanks Rick.  

39 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Congratulations figuring it out.  I hope it stays fixed.

I don't know it this holds true for Volvos, but for many years, a John Deere fan motor cost about three times what the same motor cost elsewhere. But for $75, you done good.🙂

$180 for fan motor.  $75 would have been in addition if resistor had to be replaced.  Still pretty cheap.  I’m thinking dealer cost for the job around $1000 if I was lucky.  

24 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

very low rpm + high torque requirement = resonance through the driveline.

Resonance = vibration?

Henry,

I think “everything included” has definite merit. I hate to purchase something and then have to search for “accessories “ that optimize its use. Case in point. I just purchased a dashcam with GPS capabilities. Now I have to buy an accessory hardware kit to enable certain functions. Have to buy an sd card for data storage. Just throw it all in, charge more and let me get on with it. 

Update:  My A/C is up and running!   Thanks to all the suggestions and help.  You obviously can teach an old dog some new tricks.  For review the fan quit running then after some cursing and manipulating ran normally for a couple of days and quit again. So with some sleuthing based on suggestions above I checked continuity in the “resistor “ (that’s what it’s called if you order one and in YouTube videos).  It appeared to be okay.  Replacement would have been around $75.  I took the fan out and connected to 12 volt at home and fan ran.  Hmm!  Went back to truck plugged in resistor and metered the two wire connector to the fan. The control module metered 10 volts at low fan speed and incremental increases to 12.4 volts at high speed so I felt pretty satisfied the resistor was good.  So I’m thinking, voltage from controller (panel control) seems to be making it to the resistor and variable voltage is coming from resistor to fan, that still points to the fan as the culprit.  So plugged in old fan. Tries to run but stops. Voila, order a new fan motor, plug in, and runs like a dream at all speeds…for now!  Hope there are no gremlins lurking.  Again thanks everyone for helping me work through this.  Next step is to educate myself on reading electrical schematics.  Can’t be that hard right?  Maybe like learning Mandarin.

2 hours ago, Danfreda1 said:

Carl I still think it was the jack dragging in the rocks. We were behind you at deer run when it happened and it was the rear door side of the trailer. 

I’m tending that way even with my recent event. I cannot reproduce it under any other circumstances other than in loose packed gravel. 

I’m my case both occurrences were at operating temps after pulling in to campground and only in soft gravel where trailer was a bit bogged down.

1 hour ago, Overthinker said:

Definitely interested in a thin lube plate as the one we had isn't compatible with ET. I'm not a fan of a greasy top plate, but greasing the jaws is interesting.  

A very knowledgeable person (GeorgiaHybrid) once told me metals don’t like to rub on metals.  He slathers on lots of grease on the jaws  so I followed his lead. May not be necessary but don’t think it hurts.   The jaw grease lubricates the kingpin and let’s it turn freely as well as working around the pins.  Just don’t bump in to it when going under your front cap or you will have a hair full of “brown Brylcreem”, lol.

38 minutes ago, Star Dreamer said:

Check the lower shocks bolts on the IS suspension. They hang down pretty low and I found one of mine bent at a 90° angle from normal. Morryde said it wouldn't affect anything when we recently had an alignment done, but I bought a spare shock from them anyway just in case. 

Will do.  Thanks.

My D12 runs at 170 most of the time.  Occasionally on long hill pull will climb to 190 but fan kicks in and temps come down.  Also remember when that fan kicks in you will lose a little horsepower in the pull.  I think your temps are right where they should be.

I do the same as Av8r.  Never had an issue releasing.  I also routinely put axle grease on the jaws and upper plate.  Messy but seems to make things smoother.  I am also able to use a thin lubriplate.  David Dixon (NukeE) with Deep Space Lighting at one point offered some thin lubriplates.

12 hours ago, Case20hp said:

Maybe check the wheel bearings on each axle of the trailer? If it was mine I would after hearing that, but I have had wheel bearings fail before. My camper had the bearings not tight enough on 2 hubs on the one side from the factory. Never thought to check them on a new rig till tires were wearing funny. Was able to get a half a turn on each axle nut to get them back to being correct. 

My upcoming project before next trip.  Pulling and repacking trailer wheel bearings.  Also wouldn’t a bearing issue be grinding more than just occasionally?

24 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

Are you sure it wasn't gravel getting into the works and grinding around? I once was on a back TN road in heavy fresh gravel and thought I lost a wheel bearing, so I stopped and changed it. Turns out, all that happened was gravel getting in the wheel/brake area and grinding around, making noise. Nothing actually wrong. Jay

Well could be a possibility.  The gravel at the newer campground was small, finer chipped limestone. 

Have had an interesting experience occur twice in the truck recently that I thought I’d share for a learning experience.  In April prior to the ECR it had rained heavily and pulling into my site, my trailer wheels made approximately a 6” rut on one side.  When going forward, in the cab of the truck I heard a “grinding” sound which I really couldn’t figure out if it was coming from my truck motor, transmission, or if I had drug a leveling pad or frame on trailer.  Looked at frame and pad and no evidence of drag so was afraid it was truck issue.  No codes.  Drove truck unhooked from trailer 10 miles and shifted normally and sounded normal.  Pulled home later with no issues.  Fast forward until last week.  Truck has been driven but not with trailer.  Hooked up and short stay at campground nearby which is fairly new with gravel sites and recent heavy rains.  Created two 6” ruts with trailer wheels and same “ grinding “ sound again while pulling into site.   Repeat inspection of trailer, drove truck unhooked and all seemed normal.  Left today and softer “grind” when exiting site.  Return trip, truck ran fine, shifted normally, and no grinding.  Best I can figure is pulling through the soft gravel and sinking, the wheel sound  is transmitting through the frame and what I’m hearing in the truck.  Anyone had a similar experience in soft gravel?  Also after first experience was going to take my truck into shop for diagnostic but probably would have paid lots of $$ to not find an issue or they would of suggested transmission overhaul or something expensive.  Not saying it still may not be an issue but interesting in both scenarios the conditions were identical and not reproducible at any other time.

2 hours ago, Phil D said:

Kodiak brakes use the calipers from the 1985 and up GM front wheel drive C-Body (Cadillac DeVille, Buick Electra/Park Avenue, and Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight) and H-Body (Buick LeSabre, Oldsmobile Delta 88, and Pontiac Bonneville) cars.

I don't know what causes this phenomenon, but while I had no problems after the initial install, I did lose a caliper bolt after having new pads installed.

I had a previous thread on my incident.  My bolts actually backed out and sheared.  Why?  No one has answered that question that I know.  Since putting the red Loctite and indexing lines on my bolts I can visually check any backing out and have seen none in 1 1/2 years.  I check the index lines at the start of any major trip.  Just might be a PITA to get them loose.

I’ll ask again.  Anyone used liquid solvent to dissolve the Loctite rather than heat?

Thanks everyone. So I assume no one has tried the solvent solution?

dmk,

One of my calipers came off after the bolts backed out and sheared. This was AFTER the Kodiak recall and repair. They put it off originally to a bad batch of thread lock (Loctite). I now have indexing marks on the bolts and calipers so that I can visually check they have not started backing out. I check them frequently and the bolts all have red Loctite.