GlennWest

Several on YouTube. I would buy the crimper. Not an area I would skimp on

Also the Port Arthur, Nederland, Beaumont area RV parks survive from construction workers. Most would close down if not for us. The East end of Denver, just out of Denver, has an oil refinery there. Yelp, those darn construction workers. Glad I one of them. 

Don't know how I could take it any other way. You were complaining about the rv's condition and then bring up construction workers in same post.  If not your intention, good. 

Don't undrstand why the OP downs Construction workers. We have to make a living and rv parks cost way less then hotels. 

Might add your write up is strickly standard (non lithium) batteries and strickly 12v system. 

Don't know about yours. We that have Freightshakers have DTNA connect. Full access to everything on the truck. Maybe someone will see this that knows about Volvos

My lines from exspansion to rear bunk are all steel. There is a second exspansion valve and then inside bunk. Have not pulled that out yet .

Add more power and things break sooner.

You shared that with me a few years ago. I copied it. Thanks again.

I got a piece of unistrut and formed it for my hitch handle. Works great.

Have LED in mine. Huge inprovement.

I had a 2013 until deer got it. Doesn't take a huge deer to total one at 80mph head-on. We hauled it sideways. Same length as my 2016, although it is wider. 

That's where we got ours. 3 filter system jumbo units. Got the South of the border system. Have 5 micron first, 0.5 micron ceramic second (this is 6 candle filters in 1 carrtrige), third is charcoal unit. Our first two are cleanable. 

Yes, my general foreman on this job, his wife is an RN. She got a job as soon as they came here. No problem at all. This job 1 1/2 years long

Going to replace all hoses under my hood. Compressor to expansion valve. May replace valve too.

Mini splits are quiet. That's the noise from ac out of the equation

X2

But if it runs on batteries it should work.

My electric box has 2 seperate legs of 110v. They are staggered just like a house box. Just buy a 2 pole breaker and install it. That connects both legs together to get 230v. Now a 2 pole breaker is twice the size of a 1 pole. You will be removing two 1 pole and that will allow room for 2 pole breaker. If you don't have room for your project, you can install a subpanel for the 230v. Just bring a wire from each leg in your box to the subpanel. You can feed it off of the factory ac breakers. Mine has a subpanel from the factoy since it came with an inverter so I had room in my box.

If it can be powered by batteries, shouldn't it work. Looking at this one.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GGPMO2/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

On 7/5/2019 at 10:11 AM, Bill Joyce said:

https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-thermostats-reviewed/ might help.  The good information is at the bottom.

only problem most all mentioned there is same as mine. Works off the ac control box up top. 

Have not decided what to do with existing ducts. I considered just putting an insulating material in the vent openings. If you tried to use the existing ducts, most of the unit would be on the roof. And then your interior cover with the sensor would not work. Only way for ducts would be like Spacecraft uses, interior. Our Teton is a Grand Freedom so it is just shy of 40'. We do use the living room ceiling fan to help distribute air. Now one of ours is a wall mount. If you done both ceiling cassettes, it should be a very balanced air flow. Cassettes are superior to wall units.As far as power, I used the existing wiring that was for the dometics.Just tied into it and ran it with the tubing.In the electrical panel just replaced breaker with a 230v. If I did both cassettes I would buy one outside unit. Although 2 12k units is more efficent than the multi unit. See how high mine are to clear running lights. One unit could sit in center and remain low. The only hard part is cutting the hole out. And that might not had been so bad in milder temps. Got sunburned and dehydrated. And I had a cooler of water up there! The wood Teton uses is like high grade plywood. Miltilayered and full 2" thick. You will cut thru that, roof top, rafter. I had very little bracing due to the support existing. You may know this, but all cassettes are 230v. Also Teton around the acs doesn't space rafters the same. Locate the side rafters before yur hole gets full size. You may have to offset it to center. I built a box that goes to inside to ceiling and protudes roof.You could just put wood in there for hangers and built box off top. This would allow you to adjust if you are a little off center. That offset rafter fooled me and mine is offset to one corner of my box. Made hooking up lines difficut. I could not get a torque wrench in there. Just open end wrenches. So I torqued fittings at compressor unit and noted the amount it turned to tighten. Did same up top. Leak free. No issuses with copper. I turned my rear mount camera downward and watched my units on the road. They are very stable. I did put flex on the 110v unit I did a few years back. I did not on this one. I do not believe it is necessary if your mount is solid. If you can spare to loose the storage are, put them in there. I can't. I have my air over hydralics tank in there now and future Chevy Volt battery and 2 inverters. Plus all our stuff. Hense mini splits on rear. It took 50' of line set to go from bedroom to unit. I think yours is longer than mine. I had no spare length. Actually had to lengthen the wiring for the cassette. They have to go to inside of the unit and gas lines up top. That how close the length was. Did I cover your questions?

Mine is not a super brinkly. It is the 32k Brinkly. But my pin weight is in line with it. Just looked at mine. Yes, welding required to change when mine wears out. Pivot side to side is bolted and welded to hitch. But as a welder, it is a simple job. Cut or grind weld out. unbolt and install new head. Reweld. Hour or two at the most. Bet that TrailSaver same way.

11 minutes ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

You can order a new head from Henry- ET hitches.  Mine was a drop in replacement.  

I was thinking the pivot was welded to the hitch. May have to go back and look at mine.

Doesn't that head just weld on the hitch body? Should be simple job to replace. As long as one is a good welder.