Jump to content

Solar


On The Road

Recommended Posts

I am learning and installing solar, Jack's web site has helped a lot plus Jack had given me some information. There is a lot to learn and the correct way to install. I am using a WindyNation MPPA solar controller with remote panel and a battery temp. I am installing two 265 watt high voltage panels, I found out the shipping is what makes the solar panels expensive. I am using Grape solar and they are sold by Home Depot with free shipping to home or store. They will come by freight. I found them on sale, which I think is a decent deal here http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-Solar-265-Watt-Polycrystalline-Solar-Panel-2-Pack-GS-P60-265-Fab2x2/206365797%C2'> They are 600.00 for the 530 watts shipped. On sale until the 4/30. I have 6 awg wire from the roof, which I think I could have gotten by with less. I only have enough real estate for the two panels. Trying to figure a combiner box or should I just connect the two panels to the 6 awg and seal the connection. Should have it complete sometime this next week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  1. Consider running each panels wire down to a combiner inside the coach. This allows you to put a breaker on each panel, which also serves as your disconnect device - on both ends of the controller. See THIS for the gory details. (you probably already saw it..) It also has design examples in it that can step people through decision making.
  2. If you want to use the existing #6 then for two panels just put in either a purchased combiner, like the AM Solar one, or build your own. The article above will step you through several solutions. From crude to sophisticated.
  3. Do make sure you support the panels if they flex on their long dimension.
  4. To simplify the wiring you "can" wire serial, since you have an MPPT controller. Make sure it can handle the voltage...but it should. There are not many of the "restricted voltage" controllers left on the market. If doing that then you can simply lug together the #6 and #10 from the panels, and then tape them to keep it from working loose. Just put it into a junction box and go down through the bottom of that. This is the simplest wiring solution, but there are some negatives, relative to shading, for serial panels. Again, you likely know this by now.
  5. If you select #2 or #4 then for disconnects just use automotive re-settable breakers as I indicate in the article above. One on each side of the controller. Make sure the "array side" breaker support the voltage. The ones I reference should.

There is far more detail in the article.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

  1. Consider running each panels wire down to a combiner inside the coach. This allows you to put a breaker on each panel, which also serves as your disconnect device - on both ends of the controller. See THIS for the gory details. (you probably already saw it..) It also has design examples in it that can step people through decision making.
  2. If you want to use the existing #6 then for two panels just put in either a purchased combiner, like the AM Solar one, or build your own. The article above will step you through several solutions. From crude to sophisticated.
  3. Do make sure you support the panels if they flex on their long dimension.
  4. To simplify the wiring you "can" wire serial, since you have an MPPT controller. Make sure it can handle the voltage...but it should. There are not many of the "restricted voltage" controllers left on the market. If doing that then you can simply lug together the #6 and #10 from the panels, and then tape them to keep it from working loose. Just put it into a junction box and go down through the bottom of that. This is the simplest wiring solution, but there are some negatives, relative to shading, for serial panels. Again, you likely know this by now.
  5. If you select #2 or #4 then for disconnects just use automotive re-settable breakers as I indicate in the article above. One on each side of the controller. Make sure the "array side" breaker support the voltage. The ones I reference should.

There is far more detail in the article

1. I am unable to get the wire from the roof to the controller. The 6 awg was installed when the coach was built.

2. I will make a combiner box or connect together in two boxes on the roof. Then tape the connection to insure moisture resistance.

3. I have 8 supports for each panel, I am thinking three on each side and one on each end. If it still flexes I can add more.

4 I believe these panels are rated at about 8.56 amps each 265 watts divided by 30.96 volts would equal the 8.56. My controller is 30 amps so should be ok.

5. I am using re-settable 30 amp breakers on both sides of the controller.

 

The wiring on the roof will be 10 awg double layer MC4 solar cable and the 6 awg is also double layer solar wire or is suppose to be. That is what I paid for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

RVers Online University

campgroundviews.com

Our program provides accurate individual wheel weights for your RV, toad, and tow vehicle, and will help you trim the pounds if you need to.

RV Cable Grip

RV Cable Grip

All the water you need...No matter where you go

Country Thunder Iowa

Nomad Internet

Rv Share

Dish For My RV.

RV Air.

Find out more or sign up for Escapees RV'ers Bootcamp.

Advertise your product or service here.

The Rvers- Now Streaming

RVTravel.com Logo



×
×
  • Create New...