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Anybody even installed Laminate Wood Floors your RV ?


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Hi All

 

I was forced to rip up my carper in my 1987 Fleetwood Tioga, due to nasty dogs living in it before and I'd like to install Laminate Wood Floors.

 

Has anybody ever done this to their RV? Is there something I should put down on the plywood floors before laying down the Laminate?

 

Also, what would be the easiest direction to lay the Laminate Strips to avoid aggrevation with seems, etc.

 

On another note, after removing the carpet, I sprayed White Vinegar all over the wood floor, chairs, bench seats, etc. in hopes of removing the fowl stench of dog and neutralize the odor. Any suggestions or past experience with this would be helpful. I've never owned an RV before and I'm trying to restore this one.

 

Here's some photos of whats been done so far.

 

Tim

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it's almost impossible to get it all out of OSB. Plywood, depends on the surface grade and how bad/long it was kept wet. Yes, enzyme odor killers do work but sometimes only for the short term. When it gets warm and humid, smells usually come back to some degree.

 

About the best you can hope for if it is not a replaceable surface is to seal it really well after treatments.

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I did vinyl flooring instead. It's waterproof, thinner and at least as pretty. I used wood grain, but there

are a wide variety of patterns and it's easy to deal with. What I didn't do that I wished I'd done is glue it

instead of floating it because the joining edges aren't as secure as laminate. Or, I guess one could glue the

joint...?

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One thought on treating the area is to use one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00632Y4VK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

 

My '07 5er had a 'musty' kind of smell that I couldn't get rid of. I checked everywhere for leaks or mold and couldn't find any. I purchased the ozonator and was really surprised at how well it eliminated ALL of the odors. I was really impressed. Be sure to follow the directions carefully. You don't want to breathe it in or expose pets or plants to the higher concentrations of ozone. I set a fan up to circulate air over it, plugged it in and with the 5er closed up let it go for a few hours. I'd then turn it off and let it air out then do it again. After about the 3rd treatment it was all good. And for the price of this one you can't even rent one. It does work better when it is cooler outside.

 

Steve

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Several years ago we removed all carpet and replaced it with laminate flooring. We used Armstrong's best grade of laminate. We picked it based on some tests that Consumer Reports did that showed it had better wear and scratch resistance than Pergo. Its 3/8 inch thick.


We were surprised to find that a Carpet Time store had much better prices on the best grade than Home Depot or Lowes had on the middle grade which is all they carried. The best grades were special order.


We did the installation of our flooring ourselves. We couldn't find an installer willing to do the job. We installed it with the planks running parallel to the walls. It would been easier cross ways but my wife thought it would look better length ways.

It took us about ten day’s altogether (we only worked about 4 hours a day though). It wasn't terribly difficult but did require a lot of cutting and trimming because of all of the corners. There were also some challenges at the front of the slides, around the stairs, and underneath the dinette.


Before we did the installation we did a test by removing a square of carpet and making sure the slides would ride over a piece of T molding, laminate and underlayment.


Some people try to cut the carpet back under the slide, but we cut the carpet in front of the slides leaving enough carpet to be stapled down. I was afraid the slides would catch the carpet when the slide went back out. A Tee molding or baseboard covers it so it doesn't show.



If you do the job yourself I would recommend a few things to have:

1) table saw, 2) chop saw, 3) good saber saw, 4) Rotozip tool, 5) air slight head brad nailer, 6) air stapler, 7) utility knife and sharp hook blades. 5) A staple puller - looks like a flat blade screwdriver with a V cut into the bent end of the blade. 6) heat gun for a few places where the carpet was glued down (stairwell for example)


There were two grades of the foam underlayment available. We used the best grade - more expensive but thicker and provides a moisture barrier.


We also used a special waterproof joint glue in areas that are prone to getting wet - like in front of the sink, refrigerator, and around the stairwell. (This is used to glue the joints so spilled water can't get in the joints - not to glue the flooring to the subfloor).

We also used silicon caulk to fill the 1/4 gap at the edges in those areas.

The caulk and waterproof glue are both recommended in the instructions from Armstrong.


We vacuum and mop carefully before we bring the slides in to avoid leaving anything on the floor that might scratch it. In spite of that over the years we have had some minor scratching in three or four places. One fairly deep place at the very beginning was due to our cat batting a couple of paper clips under the slide while we were working on the project.

I stapled door sweep strips behind the base boards in front of the slides because of that.

Even with the scratches it looks much better that the carpet did after only three or four years. In addition it is so much easier to keep clean.

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