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2004 VNL Door latch "broken" - manual needed :)


kidder

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Hi Everyone,

 

We are in the process of getting our 2004 Volvo 780 back on the road (after 1.5 years of sitting). The good thing is after we connected up the batteries - she fired right up - good oil pressure, good air, everything just 'worked'. There is a bit of belt squeal so not sure if it is the fan belt or something else - so will have to watch that... but sure nice to see it fire up and see everything coming back on line.

 

Here is the issue: On the passenger door, the outside hand latch won't move up to open to door ... and the inside door hand actuator will go forward and back ... but the door won't open (ie. it is not releasing). I am going to take the door the panels off and take a look inside as I suspect something has broke between the actuator and the actual door release mechanism. I was wonder if anyone has the shop manual on how to take the panels off and a view of all the insides to see what part of the mechanism might be broken?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Curt

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Thanks Siber/Mark,

 

Mark, thanks for posting that Manual - I will see how close they are.

Let me know how close they are. I have a handle that is "hard" to open, sometimes. I'm intending to pull it all apart this summer and "R&R" it as necessary. Before it breaks, hopefully.

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Let me know how close they are. I have a handle that is "hard" to open, sometimes. I'm intending to pull it all apart this summer and "R&R" it as necessary. Before it breaks, hopefully.

Jack,

 

I was actually able to source the actual manual for the 2004's early today.

 

The doors are different but honestly, the door is actually very easy to take apart. Mine is still apart (need to go to Volvo tomorrow to pick up some plastic clips that were obviously never replaced when someone else took the panel off) - so if you want, I can take some pictures. And if you want the actual manual (I think it is the entire thing) I can compress it for you and put it in dropbox somewhere.

 

After inspecting it closely, I found that handle was actually 'siezed' where the handle meets the 'bar' that goes up and down to the latch. It is very easy to remove the bar - once removed, I used a little lubricant (read WD40) and before I knew it the handle worked smoother then it ever has. As a side note when you remove the handle, you are removing the lock assemble as well which looks a little more involved.

 

On these doors though - there is a nice little 'peak a boo' window which if you remove the rubber grommet that is inserted you can get right to the lock/handle assembly so you don't have to take the metal plate off the door (which is still pretty easy) - I took it off just to have a peak at all the internals.

 

As I said if you want some pictures and/or the manual, let me know and I will take some and fire them your way.

 

Curt

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Curt,

 

Thanks - I'd love the pictures. I likely just need a "lube job" like yours. Mine works fine, it is just getting "hard".

 

Don't bother scanning the entire manual. If you already have it electronically I'll take it, but if not just the door section would be helpful. Of course, if you do have it electronic it might make sense to get it to Mark and see if we can get it hosted in the Resource Guide. I'd bet it is different than what he currently has.....up to you two....

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I found on both my Gen I doors, that the locks and mechanisms were stiff and pretty corroded/oxidized from all the years of weather. Since I was fabricating electric door locks from after market parts at the time, I just removed all the mechanisms and soaked them in CLR for a day or so or until they quit foaming. They came out almost OEM clean. I used white lithium grease on them and they work like new now.. It's a little more work, but easy to tear them down that far. I hate having to do things twice, PM is the name of the game! The nice thing is they are easy to work on because they are designed to be worked on, unlike our cars. :o))

BTW, when you peel off the moisture barrier (sometimes it's plastic sometimes it's a paperlike product) The black super sticky, gummy, adherent (it's butyl rubber) can be bought at automotive paint stores....I think I paid abt $15 for 50 feet-ish. It comes in a flat box not a roll.

 

 

Al

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Curt,

 

Thanks - I'd love the pictures. I likely just need a "lube job" like yours. Mine works fine, it is just getting "hard".

 

Don't bother scanning the entire manual. If you already have it electronically I'll take it, but if not just the door section would be helpful. Of course, if you do have it electronic it might make sense to get it to Mark and see if we can get it hosted in the Resource Guide. I'd bet it is different than what he currently has.....up to you two....

Jack,

 

I never installed the manual - even though there is an installer function. I just looked at the splash screen and it says it is the 2004 VN/VHD version 2 Manual. The diagrams for the door were pretty much spot on to how mine was layed out.

 

I will send you a link via dropbox. You can get my pictures and the manual. If you think it is usefull - feel free to pass along to Mark :).

 

C

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