ARGO

There are a couple, my supplier sells Pfifertex. I believe Sunbrella makes "Awntex" but have no experience. This is good stuff, meets Calif fire codes etc. 80% is like mosquito screen on steroids, 90% is much closer weave. My toppers don't flap, don't hold water (don't rust,bust,collect dust) etc. Comes in several colors too. Check out colors at Sailrite, or my supplier www.manart-hirsch.com

On 2/26/2022 at 9:40 AM, ms60ocb said:

Thanks for the link There is many choices.

Clay

Note there are 2 grades, 80% & 90% sun reduction, I went with the 90%.

If you are near Baltimore, I can get it for you. If not, try Sailrite.com, it's called Pfifertex

I have the ability to make my own, and I chose Sunscreen material, NOT solid fabric.

just for fun, did you try "Thriftbooks"  ?

Tks, but have you ever seen a 9" wheel at 10,000 rpms ? Gotta be more like 4.5". I was asking about the material mostly.

I have been using a 4.5" angle grinder for polishing. I have a wheel made of cloth, and "fingers" gripping the cloth to the metal backing. It's lasted me many years, but now worn out. All I see available on Ebay are fiber wheels, look like Scotch Brite. Anyone use one of these? With the speed of an angle grinder I wouldn't use something that will fly apart. 

Volvo's system too complicated. Buy a cheap lock kit off Ebay & put a hidden switch in. Or, get a kit with a remote.

Reading these posts makes me glad my frame is 16" solid steel

One comment- I have a Leer hard flat type & love it. But I had occasion to have to get under it in rain. I'm now going to add strip lights under the bed rails. 

If you want to fill those square holes, I have a bunch of Volvo switches & blanks

Search salvage places, several good ones in Elkhart & one just up over border. 

RV museum too

With some practice, steering a hair left as the front of the semi passes helps

If you had the driveshaft redone, lenghtened whatever- my guess for your shake at 50-60 is that the bearings are out of phase. You can do a rough (very rough) guess at that by taking a string and laying it centered on one bearing cap, then taking the other end across the other cap. The string should run dead center across both caps. Note this a shade tree check, it could still be off several degrees and you wouldn't see that, needs a machine shop & lathe.

My "635" Volvo gets 10, I gross 38K  

So where did you find the biggest offender? I've put maybe 5 gals of soapy water on mine, & even bought a Whisper.  

I added a 48" Pete sleeper to the back of my Volvo. Not attached to the cab, merely bolted down to act as a toy box with the former cab access turned rear. Filled the opening with a school bus door and a FG panel over it. Salvage yards have lots of sleepers, not real expensive. And BTW, I had to narrow it 10" to fit between the Volvo fairings

You found a SQUARE "O type" ring?  Buy a ticket! 

& thanks!

My understanding of these motors is like a slide out. It runs until it hits major resistance then stops. If that's the case, try grabbing the roller on it's way out & try to stop it. If the motor then shuts off you need to wind those springs tighter.

Well, the Navy taught me "When in doubt, do without".

Tks for all the advice, but the RTV was outside the square. Shouldn't really need anything at all, ring was good. Just made me feel better where outside of the ring plate touched the main housing. 

Did you get the ring from Volvo? I'm surprised they could 1) be bothered, and 2) didn't want to $ell you the whole thing

16 hours ago, Barbaraok said:

How sad that one can not see the difference between hostile workplace treatment of another human being and the fussing of people who buy a house next to an existing airport.  

I DID buy such a house, near Martin Airport in MD. Air NG flies A-10's out of there, and I'd have no bitch except for their unnecessary antics. 

Now, about 10 yrs ago the F117 Stealth fell 297' ( That's FEET) from my house and we don't forget something like that. So take off & don't stand it on it's ass right over my house, just GO AWAY first. "Theoretical glide path of a stone" comes into play here. With airports, things once taken for granted can change, like the flight paths near BWI driving people nuts.

Thanks, I feel better

Left in 89 after taxes went to $5200/yr on a 2 bdrm ranch 50/150 lot. This in the middle of the "once washed by the tide debacle" in my seashore area. Retirees with house PAID FOR were losing them due to taxes. We still owned a property in the state till this year, and narrowly avoided the "NO lube anal probe exit tax"

I'll still love the state but from afar, like an ex after a brutal divorce  

I'd sure repair it before I considered a front cap replacement. But if you want one, try 

Visone or Colaw

OK, took the little bugger apart. FYI, it is a fuel splitter block with a small rubber valve to direct return flow to each tank. The plate covering this has a square ring like an O ring in a recess in the block. That's what was leaking on mine. Cleaned it up, "helped" it a little with some RTV sparingly applied & we'll hope for the best. Tks for the replies!

So I have this fuel drip from the block where the lines come together between the frame. It's on a little bracket above the driveshaft. I'm gonna' pull it off & open it up, looks like a plate on one side. Anybody fool with this? Any experience with what's inside?