Jump to content

ARGO

Validated Members
  • Posts

    537
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by ARGO

  1. I changed gears in my Volvo ( AS .74 OD, 22.5's). Went to 3.08's. Little too far, should have done 3.23's. Worked out OK, I can run from 55 to 65 in 9th, cool to pass someone at 65 & shift UP

  2. OK, TWO air lines on back of cab. Blue is "service" air, for the brakes. Red is "emergency" line, which is charged only when red knob in truck is pushed in, constant air BUT WILL CUT OFF at approx 60lbs. That is why it is more properly called a "breakaway" valve, in case you lose the trailer. It will cut off while you are using whatever when it hits 60lbs, you will have to go into the cab to reset it.

    If you don't REALLY understand a truck's air system, I suggest you NOT MESS W/IT until you do, it is a real safety issue..   

  3. Get a roll of 2" blue tape, start taping all the joints near the area, drive it & see if it stops. Another option on the front door- spray silicone on the metal ( i say metal, meaning the door frame or the door shell, whichever does NOT have weatherstrip). Close the door, open it & look for shine on the weatherstrip indicating a seal. If you see no shine on spots, there is no contact. Remember, the noise could be coming from an outside source, like the mirror or arms. The RV repair near me has a big fan in a board for leaks. They mount it in the doorway, turn it on & spray soapy water on suspected leaks. Maybe that would work. Cheap solution- get ear buds.................

  4. To get back to the topic- many engines with a return line use a "day tank" . This works if it is not a "bypass" system like Detroits had, & you only need a suction line from truck to sealed tank. It will pull only what it needs. 

    On a "old trucker story"- I ran team for an outfit out of Minnesota for a while. They had a HUGE reefer tank, like 150 gals. We were expected to stop halfway to the east coast and HAND pump the fuel to the truck.  Wonder why we had to do that? 

×
×
  • Create New...