Ray,IN
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Posts posted by Ray,IN
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I found their website; The sales brochure is here: https://www.cortescampers.com/_files/ugd/6a4159_bebe547f138847f28f698ceb4274dab2.pdf
Everything is one-piece molded fiberglass, even holding tanks, which cannot be replaced as they are part of the "frame", wet bath, and It has a 16G black tank.
Their 16' trailer starts at $40,000 + taxes and fees.
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7 hours ago, noteven said:
My uncle knew a guy who’s friend’s cousin made a 200 mpg carburetor…
https://www.apparentlyapparel.com/news/200mpg-carburetor-conversion-pdf
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On 2/22/2024 at 11:00 PM, kb0zke said:
Reviving an old topic.
We're looking to get a stand-alone GPS. As some mentioned, the navigation system that comes with new cars/trucks is good as of when it was installed, but over time new roads are built and existing roads are straightened, which sometimes leaves us "driving" off the road. The system doesn't quite know what to do with that. The phone navigation works well in a car, less so with a pickup, and a lot less well with an RV.
What's the current thinking about a good GPS? We have a pickup towing a 40' travel trailer.
I used to have Rand Mcnally GPS' but their lifetime maps timed-out @ 3 years. So, I bought a cheap OHREX Chinese trucker GPS off Amazon for $70. It has been entirely accurate here in the lower 48 for 3 years now. Maps updates must be purchased and come on an SD card for something like $26 ea.
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Just now, Ray,IN said:
I agree; clean off the steering box so you can locate the leak source. While under there find the numbers on the steering box casting, that number and perhaps a brand name is very important for locating a new box. This is nothing special, virtually all are heavy-duty truck parts.
I will say it is probably a leak from a power steering hose or fitting instead of the actual box, but when the box is oily/greasy it's impossible to accurately locate the source. Use engine de-greaser spray on the box and surrounding area then flush with water. If it has air suspension, do not get underneath without the frame being blocked so it cannot lower!!!
Some brands are rebuildable, some are not, so if one must be ordered, make sure the shop has received it before removing the old one. It isn't going to do more harm by driving it to the shop.
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I agree; clean off the steering box so you can locate the leak source. While under there find the numbers on the steering box casting, that number and perhaps a brand name is very important for locating a new box. This is nothing special, virtually all are heavy-duty truck parts.
I will say it is probably a leak from a power steering hose or fitting instead of the actual box, but when the box is oily/greasy it's impossible to accurately locate the source. Use engine de-greaser spray on the box and surrounding area then flush with water. If it has air suspension, do not get underneath without the frame being blocked so it cannot lower!!!
Some brands are rebuildable, some are not, so if one must be ordered, make sure the shop has received it before removing the old one.
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Do not drive an RV into the keys without a reservation unless you plan to go during the summer/off-season months. During peak-season months you cannot even find a parking spot for a few hours without getting a ticket.
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On 2/26/2024 at 6:26 AM, Wrknrvr said:
I believe putting attachments under the slide would not allow the slide to retract.
I will say I have seen slides on Prevost conversions and other high end motor coaches, come up and over the interior floor. But that whole mechanical system is built to do that.
I believe a trip to a hardware store to test plywood, could be a learning experience. Get a piece of finish grade birch plywood out and lay it so it is supported on both ends. Then push on the middle for flexibility. Your with is 32” I think , so support it at those distances.
Then get other types of plywood out and do the same test. See if you can detect a difference in the stiffness of the plywood.
My thinking cannot remember the tool that puts wood wafers in wood joints. I will check and get back to you on your subject. But I use the biscuit cutter and biscuits when joint joints in wood. Apparently I thought of breakfast biscuits for the last sentence.
If any screws are used to attach anything from above the floor. They cannot be long enough to penetrate the lower side of the floor.
That machine is a biscuit-cutout, the inserts that are glued-in are biscuits shaped like a football,and come in many different sizes.
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7 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:
So now let’s go back in racing time.
What is the name of the private citizen that took a reverse Offenhauser engine to the Indianapolis 500?
That must have happened before I got interested in cars and going fast on a 1/4 mile dirt track. I think I was still being introduced to the opposite sex. 😉
I do remember the man,Johnny Johnson, that ran a "cross-fire Cadillac engine" in unlimited dirt track racing. He had redesigned the engine to fire 2 cylinders at once, sounded strange, but it kept up with the pack.
I agree with watching the boating crowd and applying things to RVing, one floats the other rolls. Inverters came to the RVing industry from boating.
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My internist Dr. uses Google Scholar for her research daily.
I had an eye Dr. appt. Tuesday afternoon. He had diagnosed me with beginning Glaucoma a few years ago and put me on Latanaprost eye drops to bring the pressure down. Tuesday it was 16 in left, 17 in right, right in the middle of the normal range, with 20/30 left and 20/40 right eye. Not too bad for being 81, the important thing is to follow Dr.s instructions exactly.
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Since the present floor is only 5/8" OSB, which was a poor choice anyway, I like Kirks idea better than mine. Depending on clearance under the floor, If there is clearance, 1" angle iron mounted under the present bowed floor, would push the OSB back up to level. Each end would have to be secured with carriage bolts from above and nylock nuts on the bottom, It might require more than one piece of angle to completely level the floor.
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Does the same amount of sag show on the underside? If not, I wonder if the same thickness of plywood, beveled on each side would fill-in that sag?
The expensive way to correct that would be to saw right down the center of that sag, then pry up each side and insert a wide shim underneath to bring it all back to level. Then the particle-board can be screwed down to the glued (using structural adhesive) in place shims
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I have a similar problem.. I did find my pictures finally, they are in a sub-sub folder within pictures. Now I have to figure out how to put things back as they should be, while not losing any pictures or files.
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On 2/21/2024 at 7:59 AM, justRich said:
Yikes! $34 dollars, used on Amazon. And a solid 5 stars. Not available at my public library Overdrive.
You should find this review quite interesting and informative. Be sure to watch the video at middle of page. https://www.gunsholstersandgear.com/book-reviews/gravest-extreme-massad-ayoob/
This book is $15 from https://pangobooks.com/books/7deac20f-b0e2-4ec4-adce-d7ad1efbefeb-bCAEPXxO7maMUb10UfRhu8LhVLy2
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If incandescant bulb it's the same thing as 12v patio walkway bulbs, should you have an extra laying around.
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I agree with Kirk. When a breaker trips, before it will reset the lever must be pushed against the spring resistance until it stops, only then can you turn it back on for a reset.
Now I'm wondering if your slide not level is connected to these problems.
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https://imgur.com/signin is a free web picture web hosting website. Create an account and follow onscreen directions, then follow Kirks directions so your pictures are seen here.
Usually flat-floor slide rooms have HWH brand systems, which are complicated underneath. Inspect your slide movement system for a brand name and model#. If you find a sticker beginning with AP then numbers it is a HWH brand system, that sticker is the part#. Armed with that number you can find and download the troubleshooting manual.
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i bought all my LED "bulbs" from Amazon, yes they are cheap, a dozen will cost what 2 or 3 name brands cost.
I replaced every incandescent bulb ( 56) plus entire LED stop light fixtures, with an LED about 5 years ago, so far 2 have failed, but since i bought by the dozen i have plenty of spares in my onboard toolbox.
I seem to recall I spent a total of $93 to replace everything but headlamps. I don't drive at night so no reason to buy LED headlamps, the rear docking lights were not bright enough nor the correct color, making them useless, so I returned to the OEM headlamp bulbs in the rear docking lights.
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11 hours ago, Kirk W said:
While that is a big improvement, the engine that has sat for months will still have no lubrication when it begins turning over. Delaying the start does lessen the amount but only a prelube system completely resolves that and looking at the Cummins website it lists a prelube system as optional on some engines. I suspect that starting any engine is the thing that is most wearing thing we do to it under normal circumstances.
i agree, and statistics have proven your last sentence.
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On 2/8/2024 at 9:21 AM, Kirk W said:
That is true for any vehicle engine if it has been sitting long enough to be considered to be a dry start, according to the Ford tech support folks. They define a dry start as all oil having drained from the lubrication points and it is typically about 2 weeks. The reason that they gave me for driving was to warm not only the engine but also the transmission enough to evaporate any moisture that may have condensed inside and to fully lubricate all critical points in the entire drive train.
Recent/this century, diesel engines/Cummins, have a feature in the ECM to prevent "dry starts". The ECM only allows an engine start after the ECM "sees' oil pressure.
My 1999 ISC used to start immediately when the starter engaged. I had work done on the engine and Cummins had to wipe my ECM clean and install the latest version, just to be able to communicate with it, after that my engine cranks a lot longer before starting. I thought something was wrong, but I was assured the new program was the reason, to allow oil pressure to build.
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A point of general knowledge; do not start the engine unless you can drive the vehicle for 20 minutes to get everything, including motor oil up to normal operating temperature. A diesel engine will never reach normal operating temperature at low idle.
source: https://www.cumminsengine.net/is-really-good-that-engine-running-with-low-idle-speed.html
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16 hours ago, jenandjon said:
If I'm in the middle or nowhere and I have a flat on the steer, I figure I will take one off the back and put it on the front. It will get me to where I'm going. That plan in my mind is enough to ease my anxiety. Technically I have 2 spares.
I also keep 2 trailer spares.
I was thinking of the MH's with different steer wheel sizes when I wrote that.
I once owned a 1976 Allegro MH on a Dodge 1.5T truck chassis. The owners manual said exactly what your wrote to do if a front tire went flat.. It said to run the good inner dual wheel up on a 2X4 to remove the outer dual wheel.
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The nail, no, but I have heard of placing a 1" cube of meat in a coke and a few days later there is a greasy film on top of the coke, but no meat left.
The original Coke/Coca Cola contained cocaine, I've seen a gallon jug of coke from perhaps a century ago and the label listed the ingredients.
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ms60/Clay these water pumps will not prime when all faucets are closed. To me, it sounds like your pump still had some water in the pump-head, which froze and created a leak.
Cortes travel trailers
in Travel Trailer
Posted
That's it! I knew I'd seen that one-piece design before.