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noteven

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Posts posted by noteven

  1. Hi Lance - Moving, complete with animals, is never straight forward it seems.

    I know in the RV world we are not used to particularly good after the sale support from dealer organizations. 

    Your centrifuge story is a good reminder why to not necessarily dismiss dealer support for mystery issues with heavy trucks.

    Handling troubles - when you get time please reply to these questions - something might come to light you can investigate further:

    1. What cold psi tire pressures are you running front and rear? Are the wheels and tires in balance? 

    2. You mentioned "left it tandem...". What was the original wheel base - steer axle to center of tandems? What is the finished wheelbase - steer axle to center of rear axle?

    When your truck was "singled", were the ackerman arm and driveline angles checked to be within spec and a complete chassis alignment done? 

    When you get a chance to uncouple the trailer and test drive on the same road that you last experienced bad handling with the trailer, is the problem still there?

    If the problem goes away when you are bob tail, is the trailer alignment correct? 

    If the problem(s) are more or less the same bob tail or towing your trailer: 

    3. Are all steering linkage components tight within spec? Is there any unusual tire wear pattern?

    4. Are all wheel bearings tight end play wise?

    5. Are all suspension bushings and mounts tight and within spec? 

    6. Are your cab suspension dampers (shock absorbers) in good shape and functioning?

    There is a tire coupled testing machine some shops may have commonly called a "shaker". It applies lateral force to the tires and any worn beyond spec parts in 3 to 6 above become readily apparent. 

    7. Are your seat mounts and mechanisms reasonably tight? Some air seats have some side to side slop from new. No idea why. Adds to the bobblehead motion/human discomfort when the steer axle ducks around on rutted roads. 

    Anyways unless parts are obviously worn out CSI is needed before throwing parts at the issue(s).

  2. 5 hours ago, jenandjon said:

    I don't know but I'm scraping this one. AC unit and fridge will be put in storage for now. Water tank and pump just might get mounted on the Freightliner. 

    Yes when you look at price and availability of stuff these days there can be good salvage in a unit like that. 

    The chassis will make someone a good little gooseneck flatbed with a little work.

  3. 2 hours ago, jenandjon said:

    Use mine the other day. Got a free salvage camper. Some lady had her brother living in it at a trailer court. He quit paying the rent last spring so she threw him out. When he left the roof vent was open.  It was open all summer. It still had potential but the door flew off on the way home.

    mkaKy2Dl.jpg

    What do they say about free boats or rv's?

  4. After braking the gaps will be welded with heat controlled TGMAW process.

    It will have two side holes drilled that could not be lasered due to braking process.

    It will be black.

    It is a fake ET Hitch top plate for Florida residents to point at and say "it is not a 5th wheel hitch - see - no hole for the king pin" when they are at DMV registering their truck not as a truck but a motorhome. 

  5. Jinx & Wayne -

    When I see an interesting name branded on something these days I have a little look see to make sure the brand I am "indentifying with" isn't something stupid or offensive from some movie or Tik Tok "influencer" and so on. 

    Anyhoo "Crugen" looked interesting - it seems it is mostly a family name mostly found in Pennsylvania, USA.  

  6. This is exactly why US "customary" and British Empire Imperial measurements are the best one for this sort of "marketing." 

    You see, if damnphoolmetric was used, even I could figure out something is up when the 800ml container is the same price as the 1000ml (1 litre) container I usta get for the same 4 point 39 dollars last year. 

    We don't allow this in RV's - you just try and market something smaller for more money to the RV community at your peril.

    Maybe "consumers" could hire us...

  7. A stick is what you need. Use it to measure "swing clearance". 

    Make it as long as the distance from the closest point on the front of the trailer to the king pin. Lots of trailers have sloping fronts behind the tow vehicle. Measure up high on that to get your closest distance. 

    Take your accurate stick to the proposed tow vehicle and place one end on the centerline where you would like the king pin to be connected. 

    Swing said stick to 90 degrees each side.

    The rear corners are the usual points of trouble. Measure to what sticks out the farthest. 

    If it clears all parts of the vehicle by 4 inches you are good. 

    If it does not you need to move rearward until you have the 4 inches.

    Then look at "dip clearance". This is the clearance for the tow vehicle and trailer not to come in contact as the rig travels through "dips". It is vertical clearance.

    With a flatbed body this should not be any issue with a RV 5th wheel coupled trailer as they are primarily designed to be towed by pickup trucks. 

    If you end up having to locate the king pin behind the rear axle, then refer to your truck's rear hitch ratings vs it's 5th wheel hitched ratings.  Especially as you go farther back. 

    What you want to avoid is 3000lbs of hitch weight at the rear of a truck rated for 2000 on the rear hitch.  Their is no way to "weight distribute" weight to the trailer axles and steer axle via a 5th wheel connection like you can with a weight distributing rear hitch. 

    Part 2 is make a stick as long as the distance from trailer king pin to it's front corner.  Most RV trailers have "zero pin offset" meaning the pin sticks out even or a bit ahead of the front of the trailer. 

    Use this stick to check clearances from the hitch point you discovered above ^ to anything you may intend to mount on the bed ahead of the trailer.  This is "jacknife clearance". 

    Then X marks the spot. 

    Now if your trailer king pin weight is 1200 lbs and your truck is good for 2000 on a rear hitch no weight distribution put your hitch wherever you want ignore above blah blah blah. 

     

     

     

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