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noteven

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Posts posted by noteven

  1. 23 hours ago, mr. cob said:

    Howdy All,

    I just now received an email from the shop in Grants Pass Oregon, that is an authorized MORryde installation center to have the IS and disk brakes installed on my trailer.

    $16,909.31 cents and that does NOT include final alignment.  The estimate from the MORryde factory if it were to be installed at the factory in Indiana, was $12,367.41

    Needless to say MORryde parts are not going to be installed on my trailer.

    Dave

    Dave that is a whole lot of beer and pizza ...

    My 06 Dodge won ton has a rear full air suspension from these people. Many many miles still going strong. It is retired to a family member's farm/ranch doing light duty like hauling 30K bale loads now. In the pickup application it bolts in to all existing factory mounts.

    I would say the trailer suspensions involve some welding.  Contacting Derek would confirm all questions. 

    Autoflex and Trailerflex suspension systems

  2. On 10/29/2021 at 7:38 PM, rickeieio said:

    Lawrence, that's just crazy enough to work.  A 12v water pump, a little tank with soapy water, some nozzles, and a wireless remote, and yer in bizness.   I'd bet Dave has everything in his man cave.  If not, I do.  C'mon over and we'll do mine tooo.

    (edit)  Duh.  We usually have plenty of soapy water on board.

    Problem would be for us motor scooter riders, like before the fluid dries or after a rain.  Kinda like those folk that forget to replace the diesel tank caps.... 

  3. Some thoughts, kind of in priority order:

    Trailer design and weight distribution. RV teeter totter wheels in the middle with long body behind the axles vs trailer with wheels farther back.

    Aero design of the trailer plus how high it rides off the ground. 

    Tow vehicle overhang - distance from hitch point to rear axle. Might be negative number for geese and 5th wheels.

    Axle loading of tow vehicle when hitched.

    Weight of tow vehicle as a % of trailer weight.

    Wheelbase of tow vehicle.

  4. Thanks for the replies. My truck went on a couple short flat land trips without me last summer with electric brake trailer not mine. The user confirmed his trailer brakes were not working last trip “with that truck you don’t notice on dry roads” Forgot to mention it….

    The control is a Hayes air/electric proportional contol. It responds to the air brake application pressure of the truck. I got bizzy with some stuff and haven’t sat down to contact their support line to see if I have equipment to test it.

    Kirk I called 2 shops about that brake control tester - um, ya, we don’t have one of those…

    Couple more places to chase after the week end.

     

  5. 2 hours ago, beemergary said:

    You should have 12v at 2 locations when the brakes are activated. Is that 12v just your 12v hot wire?

    The controller indicator light is on with no trailer connected and off with trailer connected. It then comes on when brakes are applied. This is correct as per Hayes manual.

    The controller has 12v from truck on black wire, 12v from truck on red wire when truck brakes are activated. White/ground has continuity to truck at the 7 way plug and the controller connection. 

    The problems I am chasing are: brake circuit (blue wire) is showing 12v (with key on) whether the controller is activated or not, but the brakes are not activating on the trailer.

    The brakes activate on the trailer when 12v / ground are supplied direct to the cord. 

    I have been doing other things for a couple days. 

    Thanks

     

  6. 9 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

    What are you pulling the toy hauler with. Pickup or MDT.

    My wee Kenworth - Hayes air/electric controller

    Some late model Chevy/ GMC trucks have a electric thing on the rear of the chassis. If it is not working properly it can cause problems.

     

    Let’s start with this first,   Vern

     

    9 hours ago, GlennWest said:

    12v always coming from tow vehicle? That can't be right. Brakes would stay on. I would tow vehicle receptacle bad.

    I suspect it is a low current "leak" - see Darryl's remarks below

     

    7 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

    Brakes aren't activated by voltage, it takes current to drive them. Each brake should run about 3 amps. If you insert your meter leads into the wiring on each axle, set to DC AMPS, each axle should read 6ish amps. Most meters will handle 10 amps, so don't get rushed and try all the axles at once. I'd start with the rear axle, and work my way forward. If you don't get any current readings on the trailer axles, it's time to look at the splice box at the hitch, the connections at the bumper, then the tow vehicle wiring. Work your way forward.

    The problem appears to be on the truck.  Another person (who does heavy haul etc) used it to move their Big Toyhauler. He called me "how do I set this brake controller?" I let him know ok bye.  It came back and got put away for the winter. It got a couple bob tail exercise trips last summer. I hooks on the trailer this fall and no brakes. I calls person above "oh ya... I forgot to let you know there were still no brakes..." 

    Anyway I put power direct to the trailer circuit at the plug in the shop and brakes come on. I did not measure as above thank you for that info. 

    Today I am going to check truck vs a known good brake trailer, call Hayes tech support etc. 

  7. I hooked up the Big Toyhauler the other day. All lights and signals function correctly. But - no brakes. Hmmm.... 

    I am a bit of a dummy when it comes to things electrical. 

    Here is what I know so far, with Hayes air/electric controller:

    Jump 12v direct to the brake terminal on the trailer cord, brakes come on.  Verified with one wheel off the ground and listening for magnets humming. 

    Test truck 7 way plug.  12v is present on the brake connection in the plug at all times. When trailer is plugged in it's brakes do not come on. 

    Cleaned connections in truck and trailer plugs. 

    13.5v at battery terminals on truck at slow idle.

    12.6v at the blue wire coming out of brake controller at all times. 

    12.6v at black wire coming in to brake controller from truck. 

    0v at red brake switch signal wire from truck.  12v at this wire when truck brakes are actuated. Trailer brake blue wire volts do not change, stay at 12,  brakes to not come on. 

    Disconnect Hayes, connect a simple Tekonsha controller. 

    All readings etc. identical to above.

    Tomorrow I connect a 3rd known to be good controller from another truck. 

    No fuses blown. 

    Any and all ideas welcome. 

    Thanks

     

  8. 30 minutes ago, TXiceman said:

    Generating and running electric motors in nowhere near 100% efficient.  There are generator losses, power transmicssio0ns losses and finally the electric motor is not 100% efficient.

    Ken

    I kinda know that Ken but I don't have the credentials* to do those calculations. 

     

     

    * too stupid most days 🤣

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