noteven
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Posts posted by noteven
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On 10/29/2021 at 7:38 PM, rickeieio said:
Lawrence, that's just crazy enough to work. A 12v water pump, a little tank with soapy water, some nozzles, and a wireless remote, and yer in bizness. I'd bet Dave has everything in his man cave. If not, I do. C'mon over and we'll do mine tooo.
(edit) Duh. We usually have plenty of soapy water on board.
Problem would be for us motor scooter riders, like before the fluid dries or after a rain. Kinda like those folk that forget to replace the diesel tank caps....
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I remember when Chinese junk was a ship.
Digi-Key is another on line supply with meellions of part numbers.
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In Canada a Big Survey was done. It was found that 98% of Canadian drivers say “oh shit!” just as they are about to hit a snow filled ditch.
The other 2% are from Saskatchewan and they say “Hold my beer and watch this!” -
In the Big Trucks and Coaches the first action when you blow a steer mocassin is to add power then set up your emergency landing and slow to a stop.
Totally not what the brain says to do.
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Some thoughts, kind of in priority order:
Trailer design and weight distribution. RV teeter totter wheels in the middle with long body behind the axles vs trailer with wheels farther back.
Aero design of the trailer plus how high it rides off the ground.
Tow vehicle overhang - distance from hitch point to rear axle. Might be negative number for geese and 5th wheels.
Axle loading of tow vehicle when hitched.
Weight of tow vehicle as a % of trailer weight.
Wheelbase of tow vehicle.
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Fixed it!
Got back to the issue late pm today.
Wiggling of wires while checking continuity and whaddya know -
Intermittent broken ground between the controller and the batteries in the truck wires.
Thanks everyone for replies and ideas.
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Thanks for the replies. My truck went on a couple short flat land trips without me last summer with electric brake trailer not mine. The user confirmed his trailer brakes were not working last trip “with that truck you don’t notice on dry roads” Forgot to mention it….
The control is a Hayes air/electric proportional contol. It responds to the air brake application pressure of the truck. I got bizzy with some stuff and haven’t sat down to contact their support line to see if I have equipment to test it.
Kirk I called 2 shops about that brake control tester - um, ya, we don’t have one of those…
Couple more places to chase after the week end.
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A guy needs to invent a solenoid activated system that applies vegetable oil on the front and rear tires of a 3 axle for carving turns on hard road surfaces.
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2 hours ago, beemergary said:
You should have 12v at 2 locations when the brakes are activated. Is that 12v just your 12v hot wire?
The controller indicator light is on with no trailer connected and off with trailer connected. It then comes on when brakes are applied. This is correct as per Hayes manual.
The controller has 12v from truck on black wire, 12v from truck on red wire when truck brakes are activated. White/ground has continuity to truck at the 7 way plug and the controller connection.
The problems I am chasing are: brake circuit (blue wire) is showing 12v (with key on) whether the controller is activated or not, but the brakes are not activating on the trailer.
The brakes activate on the trailer when 12v / ground are supplied direct to the cord.
I have been doing other things for a couple days.
Thanks
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2 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:
Do you have brakes yet. Or is the snow too deep to work in.
Just curious, Vern
Been off the project for a couple days - it has been sunny and nicely above freezing so helped with a couple outside jobs.
Heated shop to work in 😎 once I get back to it.
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9 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:
What are you pulling the toy hauler with. Pickup or MDT.
My wee Kenworth - Hayes air/electric controller
Some late model Chevy/ GMC trucks have a electric thing on the rear of the chassis. If it is not working properly it can cause problems.
Let’s start with this first, Vern
9 hours ago, GlennWest said:12v always coming from tow vehicle? That can't be right. Brakes would stay on. I would tow vehicle receptacle bad.
I suspect it is a low current "leak" - see Darryl's remarks below
7 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:Brakes aren't activated by voltage, it takes current to drive them. Each brake should run about 3 amps. If you insert your meter leads into the wiring on each axle, set to DC AMPS, each axle should read 6ish amps. Most meters will handle 10 amps, so don't get rushed and try all the axles at once. I'd start with the rear axle, and work my way forward. If you don't get any current readings on the trailer axles, it's time to look at the splice box at the hitch, the connections at the bumper, then the tow vehicle wiring. Work your way forward.
The problem appears to be on the truck. Another person (who does heavy haul etc) used it to move their Big Toyhauler. He called me "how do I set this brake controller?" I let him know ok bye. It came back and got put away for the winter. It got a couple bob tail exercise trips last summer. I hooks on the trailer this fall and no brakes. I calls person above "oh ya... I forgot to let you know there were still no brakes..."
Anyway I put power direct to the trailer circuit at the plug in the shop and brakes come on. I did not measure as above thank you for that info.
Today I am going to check truck vs a known good brake trailer, call Hayes tech support etc.
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Darryl 🤣
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I hooked up the Big Toyhauler the other day. All lights and signals function correctly. But - no brakes. Hmmm....
I am a bit of a dummy when it comes to things electrical.
Here is what I know so far, with Hayes air/electric controller:
Jump 12v direct to the brake terminal on the trailer cord, brakes come on. Verified with one wheel off the ground and listening for magnets humming.
Test truck 7 way plug. 12v is present on the brake connection in the plug at all times. When trailer is plugged in it's brakes do not come on.
Cleaned connections in truck and trailer plugs.
13.5v at battery terminals on truck at slow idle.
12.6v at the blue wire coming out of brake controller at all times.
12.6v at black wire coming in to brake controller from truck.
0v at red brake switch signal wire from truck. 12v at this wire when truck brakes are actuated. Trailer brake blue wire volts do not change, stay at 12, brakes to not come on.
Disconnect Hayes, connect a simple Tekonsha controller.
All readings etc. identical to above.
Tomorrow I connect a 3rd known to be good controller from another truck.
No fuses blown.
Any and all ideas welcome.
Thanks
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1 hour ago, 2gypsies said:
I don't know if he's associated with The Onion but he's not credible.
I better toe the line then.
They say “consensus of science” - what does that mean?
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Hi Dave - give City Spring and Axle Ltd (since 1956) in Edmonton, AB a call. 780-463-4291
No promises except I’ll buy supper.
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Hi dmk,
A heavy duty suspension shop can align a leaf spring/shackles/equalizer type trailer.
All parts must be in wear tolerance.
They bend the axles to point the wheels where they need to be.
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.. there's this new invention out for heavy vehicles I heard... brakes operated by compressed air... do you think it could catch on?
Dexter 8 on 6.5" bolt pattern 10K air brake axle
I'll shaddap now.
Back to the regular thread programming...
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Vern - I plan to be on I-15 around the 8-9-10 of November ish.
Heed my warnings about me can make it snow and be general crappy weather on I-15 any month of the year 🙃
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I don't see any claim from Tony Heller he has anything to do with "the Onion" on his website or u tube channel.
I can see how someone thinking those headlines over and over at the start of the video weren't actual headlines from actual publications but some kind of satire.
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30 minutes ago, TXiceman said:
Generating and running electric motors in nowhere near 100% efficient. There are generator losses, power transmicssio0ns losses and finally the electric motor is not 100% efficient.
Ken
I kinda know that Ken but I don't have the credentials* to do those calculations.
* too stupid most days 🤣
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No that was the mystery - I was using my Verizon phone / Montana phone number.
MORryde independent suspension and disk brake conversion, is it worth the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
in HDT
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Dave that is a whole lot of beer and pizza ...
My 06 Dodge won ton has a rear full air suspension from these people. Many many miles still going strong. It is retired to a family member's farm/ranch doing light duty like hauling 30K bale loads now. In the pickup application it bolts in to all existing factory mounts.
I would say the trailer suspensions involve some welding. Contacting Derek would confirm all questions.
Autoflex and Trailerflex suspension systems