dennisvr

Planning on being at Flaming Gorge UT in a few days and was wondering if anyone has camped in the Jug Hollow area with a HDT?  I'm pulling a 40' 5th wheel with a HDT (2 axle Volvo 660).  I've read road is washboard and some places sandy.  That's what I'm concerned about with 1 drive axle with no locker.

15 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Price of wood lately, cheaper to build with steel. Just sayin'.

I know wood prices are stupid now, but so is steel prices.  I bought a 2x2x20 .120 wall tubing the other day at a near by steel distributor for $90.   My building with wood or steel has been put on hold.......

42 minutes ago, Chad Heiser said:

I just connect my router to the Mobley WiFi signal and then connect all my other devices to the router.  My devices connect to the router through either Ethernet cables or through the WiFi network the router rebroadcasts.  With this method, there is one device connected to the Mobley (the router) and then everything else is connected to the router either wirelessly or wired.

Thanks, I'll get one and give it a try.

4 hours ago, Chad Heiser said:

I’m not sure exactly what you are asking, but I go from my cellular hotspot (Mobley) that has no physical connection ports to a router by connecting the router to the Mobley via WiFi.  The router then has Ethernet ports built into it that I use to connect several devices to via Ethernet cables.  It is pretty simple to do with the correct router.  I use a Linksys wireless capable router.  I have an older version of this.  There are other companies that make them as well.

Chad is this something I can connect to my Mobley?  I'm looking to be able to use more than 5 devices off my Mobley.  Would I have to contact ATT to connect or is it plug and play?  

9 hours ago, RV_ said:

Dennis that sounds like a decent set of specs. Glad you found one you liked at a good price point. Do you have a link to it or the model number? Is it a 10th gen processor?

HP 14" i5 8GB/256 Laptop- Digi Camo - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

One place it says it has a i5-1135G7 processor.  Then another place it says it has a  i5-1035G1 processor.   I'm confused, course it doesn't take much to confuse me when it comes to computers. 

Thanks for your replies.  I found this (HP 14, Intel Core i5-1035G1, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD)  for $499.00,  I guess I'll go with this.  Thanks again.

I'm in the market for a new laptop.  Laptop I have now is a Lenovo (cheapy, $300) 4gb ram, 1 TB storage, it says I have 840gb of 930 storage left .
 I don't know a lot about computers, I use mine mostly to surf the web and store my pictures.  I'm thinking I would like one with 8mb ram, storage??   Anyway if any of you computer gurus out there can steer me to a good computer for me at the best price I would grateful.  

12 hours ago, Jaydrvr said:

Yes, but you can often tell if the circuit is working by checking the trailer plug. That would isolate the problem to the light and its fixture. Jay

I don't know about Volvos, because I haven't had to work on the trailer lights on my truck.  But I had a fleet of KWs back in the day and they ran a separate circuit for the stop lights for the trailer.  The tractor stop lights worked but no trailer stop lights.  Had to call KW and found they had a 40a inline fuse tucked in a harness behind the alternator, strange place to put a fuse. 

On 6/30/2021 at 6:47 PM, Rotorhead said:

I decided to pull the lights and get a look at the filaments. (should have started with that). The picture isn't the greatest due to small file size but you can see the higher filament is definitely not the same as the lower. It appears to be connected but something happened to it. It is the same on both fixtures. So I ordered two more Type 60 incandescent fixtures. Hopefully that is my problem. Now the question is will the LCM need to be reset? Will it reset itself during the self test when you turn the key? There are no LCM faults. 

I did learn that the turn and 4 way share the lower filament, which means the marker and brake share the upper one.

The upper large filament should be the stop, turn and 4 ways.  The lower smaller filament should be tail lights.  The larger filament makes for a brighter light, that's why the stop, turn and 4ways are always brighter then the tail lights on a vehicle. 

All good suggestions about the drivelines, ujoints and splines.  One other quick and easy check is to check and see if the driveline is in time.  This means, are the ujoints lined up.  If the truck was towed and the driveline pulled, what they do is un bolt the ujoint at the diff and pull it out of the splines at the slip joint.  When it is reinstalled it could have been one spline off and it will cause a vibration.  Look to see if the ujoints are lined up to each other.  

19 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Listen to Dennis. 

Damn Darryl, if I could only get my wife to listen to you I would have it made.😁

Your truck should pull from both tanks and return to both tanks.  The pick up tubes and hoses (both at same lengths) go to a Tee.  So it will draw off the tank with the least resistance, as will the return line will flow to the tank with the least resistance.  By doing this they probably wont be at the exact same level, but somewhat close.  One thing that causes uneven levels would be a dirty or clogged vents.  Which is located at the top of the tank with a hose hanging from it.  One way to verify if they are clogged is to run the truck with the fuel tank cap opened a bit to let it vent from there.  If it levels out it tells you they may be clogged, (best done with less then full tanks) less mess. The vents can be removed and cleaned with a liquid cleaner and reinstalled.  Don't recommend using compressed air to blow them out, it may get the little ball stuck and wont vent, as they say (don't ask me how i know that). 

I bought the Predator 3500 to run the 5th wheel while parked on my property and build our house.  Used it for 6 months while building, in the CA summer heat and then used while boondocking for the last 3 yrs and it now has about 600 hrs on it and still running good.  One thing I do is not leave gas in it if I store it for more then a month or two without stabilizer.  I've got my moneys worth out of it three times fold.

13 minutes ago, Cotreker said:

This ended up being a good trip to Volvo. 

Boy, you don't hear that very often about any dealership.  

Nwcid, You may ask them if they price match.  They can usually get any tire you want.  I do that with Americas Tire here in CA.  I go online and find a tire I want and show them and they usually will match the price and order the tires in.  The last time I needed steers, I went online and found the best price for the tire I wanted at the "Tire Rack" and had them shipped to my house and then loaded them up on the truck and took them to the tire shop and had them installed.   

I agree with the flock.  At 12 yrs old they are time to be replaced.  It was hard for me to replace my 10 yr old tires that had 3/4 tread remaining.  I went with Sailun tires at 2/3 to 1/2 the price of Michelins or Bridgestone's and good reviews.  I figure they will last me for as long as I have the truck and still look good at the time I sell it.    

5 hours ago, COFLTravler said:

Need to ask the experts on the forum..

Really need new brake pads on my rig - it has disk brakes all around so really easy to swap out the pads...the issue is getting the wheels off and back on...always trying to save a nickel and besides love to tinker....

What are other folks doing to remove wheels ( I've done a lot of reading about the Milwaukee 1/2 gun as a possible tool)  If I get a torque multiplier to remove the nuts  do folks use the multiplier to reinstall and how do you know if it's torqued correctly? 

 I know besides taking it to the shop?

Mark

 

 

I used my torgue multiplier on a friends truck to do a brake job, and after he took it to a tire shop and had them check them and they said they were all tight.

59 minutes ago, Deezl Smoke said:

 This truck will have anti-lock brakes.?

 So there will be an electric connection between the brakes and likely the ecm, or an electrically charged anti-lock system. If it were my truck, I would attempt to locate the anti-lock system and inspect all wire connection and routings. I am not a truck mechanic, but I have to wonder since this appears to only do this upon a re-start, perhaps some sort of anti-lock feedback or wiring component holding a bit of electric charge might be the culprit.?

That's a good thought, but I believe the anti lock only works on the service brake side.  If the park brake is activated a spring sets the brakes.  I have never ran across anything like what is described in all the yrs of working on them.  

2 hours ago, jenandjon said:

How loud is it? Pretty quiet?

You can barely hear the exhaust and the fuel pump ticking, not loud at all.  I plan on using it to warm the cab before going to bed and after waking in the morning, so I don't think it will be a distraction.  

Installed 12v diesel heater for the cab, nice and toasty....Built upper cabinet behind drivers seat and installed microwave......Fabracated and installed 12" pedestal under fridge to raise it off the floor.  Have clips for the curtain track around windshield that I still have to install and trashed the old vinyl curtains and waiting for the wife to make new ones. 
Noticed that the stimulus money hit our bank acct. this morning and told the wife we should fill up the fuel tanks and leave the 5th wheel at home and just drive until we have to fuel up again and turn around and come home.  She said she would pass and if I wanted I could go and send pictures of where I went.............Hmmmmm road trip?????? 

I was so impressed with the one I installed in the Volvo that I bought another one for my wood shop.  I have a three car garage with one bay walled off and using as my wood shop until I can get my shop built.  The bay is 14'x25' so I went with the 8kw suit case, all together type.  Should be here in a few days so I'll be nice an toasty in no time.  

I bought the Predator 3500 3 1/2 yrs ago when we were living in the trailer while our house was being built.  I didnt want to run the on board 5500K Onan that many hrs.  We have 600 hrs on the Predator and its still running strong.  It will run the 15000 BTU AC.  You just have to turn off the AC if you want to use the microwave.  I'm still using it now when we boondock, I just cant stand running the Onan just to charge the batteries.

4 minutes ago, noteven said:

If these are a bit overkill Herman Nelson 😀

Take a look at the website of "Expedition Upfitters". Planar portable heater

I think the price in the link is Cdn dollar. 

 

That would be too much coin for me even if USD exchange would be lower.  I thought for a tent something like this would work.
12V Air Diesel Heater 5000W 4 Holes LCD Monitor Parking Heater for Trucks Boats Bus Car - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

11 minutes ago, jenandjon said:

I never knew such a thing existed. I wonder if they would work in a tent.

Dont see why not.  The only thing you need to do is vent the exhaust outside.  I would think if I wanted to put it in a tent I would get the (what I call suitcase type).  They have a tank already installed in one neat package.  
Just route the exhaust outside, fill with diesel and hook up battery and you will toasty in no time......

One other thing, I was torn between getting the 5kw or the 8 kw.  I'm sure glad I went with the 5kw.  I had to turn it off after awhile because even on the lowest setting it got to hot (82deg) inside the cab.  Also there is a lot of info on Youtube, on installation, operation and trouble shooting.  Just a word of caution, the instructions are garbage.  I had to go on You Tube to find out how to use the controller.