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As my truck was being towed to shop the passenger side middle chassis tank fairing blew off and got destroyed. Looking for the piece shown by the arrow in the pic. It is 65” visible, 69” with piece that tucks behind front step. I’ve tried VanderHaag and others with no success yet. Any help?

Thanks

If you have a Volvo engine, would you please post some pics of the locations of these sensors and also part numbers and where purchased? Would be helpful in future since my old Volvo is starting to become infected with gremlins.

Daryl. Didn’t link. Saying can’t find server. Could you please repost?

Reasonable. Will see what happens.

Rick, I plan on following the tow truck over to the shop and hopefully can talk to the mechanic. Being my usual OCD self I have a spread sheet with all the codes I could pull and a second sheet with all the “fixes” I’ve/we’ve tried with the results of those tries. At $185/hr don’t need them repeating a lot.

Thanks Jay

Would you be so kind as to list the model of 12 volt pump(s) you are using. This is a great idea.

So you are just cycling the polished fuel back into the tank rather than out into diesel cans or jugs, am I correct?

Rick, David. Thanks. Good information. This episode reminds me that cheap little gadgets can be very helpful and I thought my misfortune might help someone else to be ready in case they break down and can’t or don’t want to cage their brakes. Maybe someone can add a Pete adapter. When I built mine after seeing Charlie’s it was around $10. Hardest thing today was remembering where I put it. 😜

At least on Volvo engines and I would assume on others there is an access port to use “shop air” (compressor) to fill the air tanks. Useful to check for leaks without truck running but in my case a lifesaver to get my brakes released without caging them so I can move truck out of storage stall to be towed from the rear. Was told this was cheaper tow rate than having to disconnect driveline or axle. I have actually seen videos where some tow trucks can hook their own supply to the port. This port is pre- air dryer so not huge risk of moisture although I have a water filter on my compressor. To build one find fittings for air conditioner lines and use the red high pressure fitting on the port (the blue low pressure will not work). Plumb for air hose connection and you are set. The pics show the connector and the location of the port on a Volvo engine. Note: Be sure and trace the hose back to your truck air compressor or to the air dryer to be cure it’s an air line! Cheap insurance if you need to be towed. https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Adjustable-Fittings-Manifold-Conversion/dp/B014FFQJEG/ref=sr_1_20_sspa?crid=2Q43B2VDZBFSZ&keywords=Automobile+air+conditioner+pressure+connections&qid=1685551271&sprefix=automob+conditioner+pressure+connections%2Caps%2C5383&sr=8-20-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVkJJTVI5N0ZZVTVQJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzI1NjYzNDdXVFA3VzQ2NzAzJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNTM5NDUzOU9KWDk2NlZZRlg0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYnRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Thanks. I need some luck.

🙏🙏

Thanks Deezl and is the TruckersReport the correct Facebook page? You have been a great help.

Have one more question for you smart and experienced folks. Spoke to another reputable tow company in town and they are even cheaper than first quote, however, they use a stinger and tow from the rear so they don’t have to disconnect driveshaft or axle. My bed hangs low in back so I actually think it is a better solution. Trouble is my truck is sitting butt first in my storage site so it is not accessible from the rear. The pictures below show my quandary. The red device is a thing Charlie Lord told me about years ago which hooks to the nipple in the compressor line and allows you to pressurize the tanks with shop air. So saying I can do that and release the brakes, I can pull forward with a heavy tow strap I carry and my Dodge Ram (very level ground) but using brute force will I be able to turn the steering wheel to position for the tow truck?

Ok truck going to dealer end of the week or first of next. Went to two places that provide mobile mechanic and they listened then said they wouldn’t touch it especially if a J1939 communication issue popped up. (It did). Oh well, it’s only money, they print it every day.

Thanks Kevin.

Volvo D12. Had wiring harness replaced about 6 years ago.

Not sure it adds any to the thread but my good friend dropped by and suggested we try bleeding the fuel line as a trial to see if there was air in the system. Found the high point and using manual pump did get some air out. Motor would turn over and catch for a few seconds then die. Does this mean I may be lucky and it may not be a toasted ECM? Professional help will be employed next week.

Thanks David. Watch out for the bears.

Thanks everyone. Deezl, I use dielectric grease also or Nolox. I have a good stripper tool and some Channel Lock crimping pliers. I know you get what you pay for but the Ancors are really expensive so they are reserved for jobs like this. Saw the Wirefys and thought they would be good for other jobs.

Thanks

Nigel, glad to hear from you. Hope all is well. As you might imagine I’ve been YouTubing and iPadding a lot. Just found that video. I have the same cable and setup. Mine had Qualcomm and I once pulled back the mat and was going to take that cable loose but didn’t really know where and if I should mess with it. Actually asked Greg Shields at an ECR and he didn’t know about it either. Do you happen to know where the t connector is located and where to disconnect? Below are pics of bare cab floor. Cable runs in tread groove. Second picture is under passenger dash with cable connections. Will check this theory out tomorrow.

Update, replaced ring connectors at battery on small wires (assume to ECM and other modules), crawled under truck searching for anything loose or broken…no joy. Still same issue. On bright side ( if there is one) got a quote on towing the 25 miles to dealer..a mere $750 but I was expecting twice that amount. Hopefully something simple and relatively inexpensive. Also on a good note, my Davco refurb seems to be performing as advertised.

In my issue with my truck recently, I replaced several ring terminals at the battery (12 gauge wire size). Fortunately I had 5 nice Ancor heat shrink connectors but this is what I took off. I assume they are factory and were heat shrunk which obviously outlived it’s purpose as you can see from the corrosion. However, the originals are copper, large contact surfaces, and quality. Anyone know where they might be available and if not, is Ancor the best, or Wirefy, or suggestions. Ancor pricey!