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OTR shows installation in Volvo in this video. Seems fairly straightforward.

Does it stay on? Or extinguish when air pressure hits 60 psi? If stays on use stalk to find “vehicle messages” and it should tell you what to check.

On the Volvo engines, they require programming so some place with computer capabilities (i.e dealer) still involved. As far as storage, sealed Mylar bag with couple of oxygen absorbers would work or simple vacuum food saver with couple of absorbers. All available on Amazon.

Take a look at this product to consider for your arsenal. https://petroleumservicecompany.com/power-service-clear-diesel/?sku=9264-06&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&gclid=CjwKCAjwrranBhAEEiwAzbhNtXeHYs9CoiZq7h2I122guuRq1-wAJbRZYBU0k4OIs75DCBLZ-C-KuxoCuhcQAvD_BwE

Cold will inhibit the growth of the algae but will not kill it. Just goes dormant until sunlight. There’s algae and bacteria present in the polar ice. Remember though, the “slime” is a combination of BACTERIA & ALGAE and it grows mostly at the diesel water interface. I have the Davco and can periodically drain off any accumulated water but that doesn’t help with any water that may be sitting in the tank. I trust Rick’s opinion on most things but for me a $30 bottle of biocide is cheap insurance against what Vern went through. https://askabiologist.asu.edu/explore/frozen-life#:~:text=The Arctic ecosystem is home,large amount of food available.

Thanks.

Vern, Someone (maybe it was you) was trying to come up with a little suction “straw” several years ago just to suck that material up. Never saw the finished product. I do like your polishing apparatus that you built.

Henry, Not trying to hijack the thread but how often should the bags be replaced because of aging?

I’ve run Biokleen in my truck every fill. Stuff is expensive but gives me piece of mind. Still saying that, wish I could get my tanks polished. I’ve got a thin line of black “goop” on the bottoms.

Vern, Who did the ECM rebuild?

Craigjanelle, Listen to this man. If it’s electrical he can help you fix it or modify it. 😊

dbrandon, What a concise and informative answer to the question. Kudos and thank you for that. I’m going to archive it.

Yep, I don’t disagree. 🙂

Considered that but my nature to solving a problem is permanence. Don’t like a lot of moving parts to keep up with, lol. Also satisfies my OCD. 😊

Same for my 2006. Made several spares at Lowe’s. Didn’t know there were different styles of Volvo keys.

Point noted.

It’s drainage only. Not inline fuel hose. Suspect it will probably last as long as I need it and if it deteriorates, so be it. For further explanation, my barbed connection was 1/2” and none of the auto supply had 1/2” i.d. fuel line. Will check at NAPA today. I’m also cheap, don’t want to go spend another $10 for a brass barbed connector with smaller diameter.

Final solution to close the thread. Drain valve is 1/2” -14 NPT. Found a barbed fitting in brass at HD. I originally put on 1/2” i.d. clear vinyl hose and ran along the rail but after researching melting point of the vinyl tubing felt engine heat “might” become an issue so switching to 1/2” i.d. heater hose for the run.

Ok Davco confirmed on drain valve both male and female threads are 1/2”-14 NPT

Thanks. Yeah, I just found that same page. I found the 382 specs page but it didn’t list drain size. Parts page showed it. I’ve got some braided fuel hose so probably just barbed fitting and hose clamp. Wife doesn’t like me getting “greasy “ ever time we’re leaving on trip by reaching between the rails, lol.

I have the Davco fuel filter pictured below. Normally I hold a Solo cup under it to drain water because of its location on my frame. Want to add a fitting and hose to make it more accessible. Has anyone done this? And do you know what size barbed fitting to buy? Also is it male or female fitting?

I run Toyo steers and Cooper drives. Used to run Goodyears. Have no complaints about the Toyos and Coopers. First tier brands (Michelin, Goodyear, Bridgestone) would be my choice if I was putting a lot of miles on them yearly. However, for my needs, second tier (Coopers, BF Goodrich, Toyos, Hankook, Sailun, etc.) should be just fine. Of course this is my opinion only.

Just so we are clear so everyone understands. “Tow Insurance “ is not an insurance in the strictest sense unless it is an add on to an existing policy. It is a service contract if bought through a secondary agent like Good Sam or Coachnet much like appliance service contracts such as Home Shield. That is important because the service contracts although governed by insurance regulators have less stringent requirements. Just be sure with any product get in writing what will or will not be covered. Plus they place the burden on you to keep up with their policy changes unlike insurance which must notify you. Important difference. Not familiar with Runaway Parents suggestion of Insurance Solutions. Would be interested in what they offer. Please note my remarks are my opinions based on my own experiences and research.

My 20 mile tow was $750. Out on the road that or more.

Please see my reply in the thread you started.