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$180 for fan motor. $75 would have been in addition if resistor had to be replaced. Still pretty cheap. I’m thinking dealer cost for the job around $1000 if I was lucky.

Resonance = vibration?

Henry, I think “everything included” has definite merit. I hate to purchase something and then have to search for “accessories “ that optimize its use. Case in point. I just purchased a dashcam with GPS capabilities. Now I have to buy an accessory hardware kit to enable certain functions. Have to buy an sd card for data storage. Just throw it all in, charge more and let me get on with it.

Update: My A/C is up and running! Thanks to all the suggestions and help. You obviously can teach an old dog some new tricks. For review the fan quit running then after some cursing and manipulating ran normally for a couple of days and quit again. So with some sleuthing based on suggestions above I checked continuity in the “resistor “ (that’s what it’s called if you order one and in YouTube videos). It appeared to be okay. Replacement would have been around $75. I took the fan out and connected to 12 volt at home and fan ran. Hmm! Went back to truck plugged in resistor and metered the two wire connector to the fan. The control module metered 10 volts at low fan speed and incremental increases to 12.4 volts at high speed so I felt pretty satisfied the resistor was good. So I’m thinking, voltage from controller (panel control) seems to be making it to the resistor and variable voltage is coming from resistor to fan, that still points to the fan as the culprit. So plugged in old fan. Tries to run but stops. Voila, order a new fan motor, plug in, and runs like a dream at all speeds…for now! Hope there are no gremlins lurking. Again thanks everyone for helping me work through this. Next step is to educate myself on reading electrical schematics. Can’t be that hard right? Maybe like learning Mandarin.

I’m tending that way even with my recent event. I cannot reproduce it under any other circumstances other than in loose packed gravel.

I’m my case both occurrences were at operating temps after pulling in to campground and only in soft gravel where trailer was a bit bogged down.

A very knowledgeable person (GeorgiaHybrid) once told me metals don’t like to rub on metals. He slathers on lots of grease on the jaws so I followed his lead. May not be necessary but don’t think it hurts. The jaw grease lubricates the kingpin and let’s it turn freely as well as working around the pins. Just don’t bump in to it when going under your front cap or you will have a hair full of “brown Brylcreem”, lol.

Will do. Thanks.

My D12 runs at 170 most of the time. Occasionally on long hill pull will climb to 190 but fan kicks in and temps come down. Also remember when that fan kicks in you will lose a little horsepower in the pull. I think your temps are right where they should be.

I do the same as Av8r. Never had an issue releasing. I also routinely put axle grease on the jaws and upper plate. Messy but seems to make things smoother. I am also able to use a thin lubriplate. David Dixon (NukeE) with Deep Space Lighting at one point offered some thin lubriplates.

My upcoming project before next trip. Pulling and repacking trailer wheel bearings. Also wouldn’t a bearing issue be grinding more than just occasionally?

Well could be a possibility. The gravel at the newer campground was small, finer chipped limestone.

Have had an interesting experience occur twice in the truck recently that I thought I’d share for a learning experience. In April prior to the ECR it had rained heavily and pulling into my site, my trailer wheels made approximately a 6” rut on one side. When going forward, in the cab of the truck I heard a “grinding” sound which I really couldn’t figure out if it was coming from my truck motor, transmission, or if I had drug a leveling pad or frame on trailer. Looked at frame and pad and no evidence of drag so was afraid it was truck issue. No codes. Drove truck unhooked from trailer 10 miles and shifted normally and sounded normal. Pulled home later with no issues. Fast forward until last week. Truck has been driven but not with trailer. Hooked up and short stay at campground nearby which is fairly new with gravel sites and recent heavy rains. Created two 6” ruts with trailer wheels and same “ grinding “ sound again while pulling into site. Repeat inspection of trailer, drove truck unhooked and all seemed normal. Left today and softer “grind” when exiting site. Return trip, truck ran fine, shifted normally, and no grinding. Best I can figure is pulling through the soft gravel and sinking, the wheel sound is transmitting through the frame and what I’m hearing in the truck. Anyone had a similar experience in soft gravel? Also after first experience was going to take my truck into shop for diagnostic but probably would have paid lots of $$ to not find an issue or they would of suggested transmission overhaul or something expensive. Not saying it still may not be an issue but interesting in both scenarios the conditions were identical and not reproducible at any other time.

I had a previous thread on my incident. My bolts actually backed out and sheared. Why? No one has answered that question that I know. Since putting the red Loctite and indexing lines on my bolts I can visually check any backing out and have seen none in 1 1/2 years. I check the index lines at the start of any major trip. Just might be a PITA to get them loose. I’ll ask again. Anyone used liquid solvent to dissolve the Loctite rather than heat?

Thanks everyone. So I assume no one has tried the solvent solution? dmk, One of my calipers came off after the bolts backed out and sheared. This was AFTER the Kodiak recall and repair. They put it off originally to a bad batch of thread lock (Loctite). I now have indexing marks on the bolts and calipers so that I can visually check they have not started backing out. I check them frequently and the bolts all have red Loctite.

When it cools a bit going to tackle repacking my wheel bearings. After my debacle with my Kodiak Disk brakes and some of the bolts backing out, new bolts were reinstalled with red Loctite at the suggestion of Kodiak. I know it will come loose with heating to about 500 degrees but have been seeing some videos of dissolving it using chlorinated brake cleaner which seems better and safer. Anyone ever done this or something similar and does it work?

Ok local NAPA has National bearings in stock (28580 and 25580). Said they are American made. Opinions?

Thanks Ken.

Thanks I’ve already checked with them. Their bearings are Redline which are manufactured in China. Dexter’s also use China bearings. I’ve previously compared the Chinese to Timkens and their are definitely quality differences. So if and when I replace, would like Timkens.

That was plan B. Was just hoping someone was knowledgeable on cross referencing. Thanks.

My DRV has the MorRyde IS 9k axles with Kodiak Disk brakes. Time to repack again and I’ll be doing myself this time. I called MorRyde to get part numbers for bearings and seals because I would like to carry a set in case of emergency. Spoke to MorRyde parts department and got the following information: seal- Scotseal 27438. For bearings got Timken: Inner 031-031-02; Outer 031-030-02. Standard bearings (non Timken): Inner 100-0663; Outer 031-030-02. Turns out the 100-0663 is MorRydes number and didn’t correspond to any part number. I had misplaced the piece of paper that I had written the numbers on and called back and was routed to a Ms. Gregory who emailed the info in the picture. My question is, I would really like to order Timken as my spare set but I’m having difficulty cross referencing the bearing parts numbers she sent to Timken bearings. Is a 28580 the same as a 031-031-02? And is a 25580 the same as a 031-030-02? I ask because Timken also lists a 28580 and 25580 bearing as well as the 031s.

David, the video I watched on the 2013 Smart (which mine is) has no petcock. Basically is a PITA. Have to drop the plastic bottom cover to get to lower hose. The radiator doesn’t have a petcock so you remove an engine plug on the back, jack it up to lean it left. Without the vacuum fill you then have to remove a small coolant hose or sensor on the engine to burp it. That’s why the vacuum might be better…to negate those last two steps. Just didn’t want to encounter ant “gotchas”. BTW hope you’re having fun.

So did you drain using just the block plug or did you take off lower hose?

Hey thanks Roger.

I I I have one of these vacuum lift tools that can be used to change coolant. Was wondering if anyone has used it to change coolant in their Smart? If so did it work okay and any “gotchas”?