GlennWest

There is a ton of info on this forum. No need here for a redo. These batteries don't degrade like lead acid. Totally different animal. Also the Chevy Volt is a hybrid. The batteries are barely used. They literally have thousands of cycles. Also lead acid can't be pulled down much without ruining them. 30% can damage them. Lithium can be pulled down 70-80%. You get much more use out of it with less charge time. There is no float charge with Lithium. Bulk charge. Set a minimum and  maximum at high charge rate. Done in quick order. Lead acid has 3 stage charging. Takes long time to reach full charge. Has a float cycle to achieve this. I am going to buy a complete Volt battery for my camper. 18KW

It is 24v as is. Just rewire to 12v.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/2014-Chevy-Volt-Battery-24V-1kWh-pack-Solar-Golf-cart/222641917269?hash=item33d67e0d55:g:S1kAAOSwl7JZl0ZJ

Just go to eBay and type in Chevy volt battery.

1 kwh battery, $180.00. simple bulk charging. 

I was referring to the "The 12 volt side of life" article. Not you. If I needed a battery, would advise to look up Chevy volt batteries. Can find them separated and 12v too. Just need a modern charging system that's adjustable. 

58 minutes ago, Yarome said:

Installing a seperate charger does not necessarily make it a given that you will see improved charge performance. What is being discussed as a "charger" is quite vague and makes it impossible to determine what is actually being represented as a "proper charger".

What it boils down to is "which" converter/charger is currently installed in your rig. In a 21' trailer where space is premium, many may choose to upgrade their existing converter to improve charge performance... and... sized appropriately for optimal charging (and health) of their battery bank. In newer year rigs... the installed converter may be more than adequate.

One additional factor is if or not an inverter is going to be in use. In that case.. and moving to solar, a combination charger/inverter unit may be a better choice.

But this thread is on portable generators.

As Kirk said... having a converter capable of "proper" output is just as critcal as the generator that feeds it.

When determining generator size you need to consider what your energy demands will be. Charging batteries only? So.. turning off your reefer, all lights, fans, TV, water pump, etc while you sit charging? I'm being sarcastic to illustrate the point that your converter/charger's maximum output to your battery bank is not your only consideration.

Do you have any "heavier" loads you wish to power with your generator? An electric space heater, microwave, coffee pot, toaster oven, etc? Things that could operate off battery via an inverter, but makes more sense to run off a genset when able (and often while charging is taking place).

Also as Kirk mentioned... many boondocker/dry campers will look at a 1500-2000watt generator as a minimum. A common practice is to kick over the genset in the morning to handle your heaviest loads while charging your batteries. Ie., running the electic coffee pot and toaster.

Unless your needs are specific, LP may or may not be the best choice as your primary fuel. Unless you purchase a dual fuel unit, conversion can be quite costly. $300-$500 into a conversion can buy a lot of fuel.

As pointed out, it will reduce your generators rated output by approx. 15-20%. It also requires a LOT of LP to run a portable generator for the equivalent period of time as a genset on gas or diesel. Empty LP tanks are exponetionally heavier and more difficult to transport than plastic fuel storage cans. LP output is more greatly affected by temperature and elevation.

While LP purchased in bulk and in local communities of often cheaper the gas or diesel, in "tourist" cooridors or in or around RV campgrounds, that may not always hold true.

I'm not say that LP isn't a "bad" choice, just that there is more to the equation than just that it stores forever and burns cleaner.

I would also X2 the suggestion to carefully review Mark Nemeth's "The 12V Side of Life" articles 1 and 2. That will give you a great foundation to build on in making these types of choices and as you move forward to expand your energy capabilities (solar). 

He doesn't address lithium though. Great info on everything but.

I'm back on Gladewater tx to work at refinery in Tyler. Be here for about a month. Sure was warmer in Baytown

We are in Baytown TX for sometime in the first of year. Be then when work starts back. At Galveston Bay RV Resort  

Yes I have. 

My skylight is rather large. 2 fantastics might fill hole. I want roof flat there though

18 hours ago, rynosback said:

If I ordered a new one again, I would opt not to have one.  From the factory you get one led light in the shower and when you delete it you get 2.  So light is not really an issue.

I would think it would be a ton more work to delete one vs replace one on a used rig.

Not really. Build frame inside, plywood, luan, roof , etherbond edges.

Never use our fantastic fan

1 hour ago, Mntom said:

Yep. Just delete it and put a string of LEDs around it for light if you want more.

You don't think the steam would cause problems?

This is interesting. I'm surprised how many like a skylight. Know if I custom ordered one I would delete it.

See I have to remove it and repair area. Also would rather have it flat here for solar panels later. Be simpler just to board up. 

3 minutes ago, SWharton said:

I agree about the light for the shower. Also, if you are tall the skylight gives you additional head room(think resale).

Height not an issues with our Teton. Have no intention of trading it in. Keeper.

See a lot of forums about leaks around skylights. That my problem. Usually damage is done once you see a spot on ceiling. Yes, it supplies light for showering. Most of my showers are at night and I see fine. They have no insulation there so they are hot in summer and cold in winter.

I need to do some repair in the skylight area. Considering doing away with it. Really don't see a benefit keeping it. What you thoughts. 

Does this work with the brass DOT fittings? I just been buying new ones. they are a little pricey. Understand a manifold though. need to practice on something.

I wouldn't go with dark colors. Look good but heat is a problem and don't need to add to it.

This is what I intend to do in the next few years. Decals pealing, caps dull. Very nice Teton and feel it is worth it.

I seem to buy less fuel with the Freightshaker. $100 goes further that the Chevy did. So I can't complain. Now bobtail the Chevy wins but not by a lot. Short trips, town, it burned a lot of fuel. 

We in Gladewater TX. Finished a short job here and staying the month. If job is 2 weeks or more we just pay for a month. Leaving next weekend and headed to Livingston Escapees unless more work comes up.

Mine geared so 60 is just in power band 55 is in yellow band. Seem to get best mileage at 60 towing. But if in hills, need to run 65 or us 9th gear.