2gypsies

It's a phosphate and they are bad for septic tanks which some parks have.

Stop in a Klamath Fish Hatchery to see some big ones! We volunteered there.

If you have any questions or problems the Water Filter Store is the place to go. The owner is so patient and will give you any kind of information or suggestions.

Cost depends on where you go and what kind of parks you stay at. If going to a very popular attraction such as Disney or national parks, or to big cities you'll pay more for a campsite nearby. If you need a 'resort' then you'll pay big time. If you travel secondary roads you'll find the cost goes way down. Some small towns have city or county parks. We've stayed in them with our 40' motorhome. If you're 62+ get the America the Beautiful Senior Pass. You can save 1/2 in the national park campgrounds and free admissions to the national parks. This also extends to national forest campground, Corp of Engineers and others. You can also boondock on public lands such as national forest lands and this will be free. We really enjoy this! Have a good trip.

We found the Diamond Lake area to have LOTS of mosquitoes.

I don't think he's looking for a Park Model. The 'pup' is 21.5" exterior. There are many permanent camp sites that allow normal RVs.

If you can't get in there I'd suggest one of these two very nice parks: Joseph H. Stewart State Rec. Area on Hwy 62 south of Prospect or Collier Memorial State Park at Chiloquin. Both are a very easy drive to Crater Lake for day trips.

If parking that RV on the ice to do some ice fishing you had better be ready to drive your truck out there in spring to get it off before it sinks! Wow!! We had a ice shack once and one guy wanted to go home for more liberations. On return and driving the car 5mph on the ice he slid right into the shack and everyone dispersed very quickly!!!

We bike and carry a small container of pepper spray for dogs that chase. When we crossed into Canada we forgot we had it. They asked if we did and we owned up to it. The agent took it and examined it carefully and even took it inside to ask someone else about it. He returned and was so apologetic saying if it's not bear spray and marked as such he'd have to take it. Big deal. I think it cost a couple bucks. No fresh food just to be sure. Things change yearly. Frozen o.k. No potatoes. Open condiments and spices ok. Enjoy your trip. Canadians are very friendly, helpful and we never felt safer!

Just wondering what made you think you couldn't drive through it? Did you see a sign, someone told you or read something about it?

Look at getting a rider on your vehicle insurance policy. Cost is usually around $10. We've used one successfully.

You can drive the whole route in Oregon/Washington on 101. No issues. We've driven the tunnel many times with our 40' MH. Semi trucks drive 101.

You stated 2m for Alaska. If you can, plan on leaving the 3rd week of May and re-crossing the Canadian border in the lower U.S. the end of August to mid-Sept. How often do you plan to go on this long trip? You might as well see it completely your first time.... just in case. There is just so much to see in Canada and the Yukon before you even get to Alaska. It's an awesome trip!

Another suggestion is to alternate tasks so you both know what to do if one is sick or injured. That includes driving. We always took turns on the daily drives. We both knew how to dump the tanks and do the other connections. We both knew how to do laundry, cook and wash dishes!

Backing in? - Both get out & look over the site first & decide approach, if necessary - tree limbs above are important - The driver doesn't move unless he/she can see the director in the mirror - The director should alternate going to each side every so often to make sure things are going right - Hand signals only. No telephone; no radio. The driver should have both hands on the wheel & not have to fiddle with devices. It really does go smoothly when both knows what's expected of them.

We full-timed 16 years without sanitizing the tank. We got our water from many sources and used the water for everything, including drinking. Especially for full-timers, when the tank water is used continuously it's not going to grow stuff. If we went to Mexico, I would sanitize it though.

When we took ours to PPL for sale, PPL suggested a price. We upped it thinking everyone wants you to come down in price. Our buyer flew in from Florida and paid the price we put on it.

I agree with SnowGypsy...... look at PPL's web site for floorplans and prices for used Class A motorhomes. There's also a place to click to find out what others sold for to give you good ideas. In your search you should be able to find something that will suit you, expect perhaps the solar you want. You may have to add that yourself. https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/used-rvs-for-sale/class-a?sortBy=price+asc

We spent a week in Glacier Nat'l Park in rain. Still... our solar charged enough to keep us going. Again... we're not energy hogs. A reading light and the radio was just fine with us. Even if you're in dappled sun you'll still get some charge.

Backing into a pull-through spot doesn't always work because of angles and one-way roads.

Welcome to the forum! If you're going to stay in RV parks with hookups there's no reason to have solar. If you're planning on national parks, national forest campgrounds or just out in the boonies on national forest or BLM lands, then solar is awesome. You get a charge continuously with no noise. You won't be running the AC though and although you can get some charge in shade it will be minimal so you'll need to find sunny spots. We always stayed above 6500' elevation in the summer so it was fine with us. For our 40' motorhome we had 300w of solar which was plenty for us because we're not energy hogs. Some people would need more and if you have a residential refrigerator you'd need more. Batteries are an important part of solar installation.

Keep in mind that when folks refer to different types of camping without hookups, this may mean what they're talking about. Boondocking - out in the boonies; national forest lands or BLM lands Dry Camping - no hookups in an established campground; typically a national park, national forest campground but can also be in a state park, Corp of Engineers campground, county or city park and other public campgrounds. Pavement parking - such as WalMart, rest areas, etc.

Matthew, the family history you gave doesn't mean it's an absolute given for you. A lot of things aren't hereditary. You could also be in a car accident, for instance.

This is exactly what I would recommend. Go to a state park with full hookups, if possible, since you seem to want to experience public parks. Come into the park with a full tank of fresh water and empty grey and black. The first days do what they call '"dry camping" ( in a campground without hookups). See how much water you use and how fast the other tanks fill. See how long it takes before running out of power. When any of them needs help then plug in for the remainder of your stay and you'll probably need to dump the grey, at least. A full hookup site will help. This will give you a basic idea but definitely not foolproof. As to not setting off the smoke alarm when cooking - we had a plastic bowl cover with elastic (not a stiff plastic) that we found in a .99 store. I believe it came in a set of 3 sizes. One of them was a size that fit over the smoke alarm in the kitchen area. If we were going to make toast, especially, we'd put the cover on the alarm (stored with our toaster so we always knew where it was). That solved the problem. You have to remember to remove it though!! It seemed that only toast set off the alarm. We never fried foods other than eggs & the alarm didn't go off with eggs.

So instead, the upset guests were disabled because those with so-called emotional pets got their seat? Disney has a big problem there! The whole 'emotional pet' thing has gone too far. People need to put a little more honesty in their lives.