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A Thanks to All for Posting and Helping


mysticmd

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Hi Electrical People,

 

1. W/ Trailer plugged in 220 50 Amp

 

a. If Battery disconnected, the lighting system in trailer is 1/2 strength on bulbs.

 

b. If running Air Conditioning and turn several of the lights on in trailer, moments later A/C is out and breaker for A/C trips.

 

2. Connect Battery - same 220 50 Amp source plugged in -

 

a. Turn on ANY light - exterior or interior, everything is the correct lumination and A/C runs fine.

 

 

How is this wired? How is the battery integral to the system working correctly? Does this make sense?

What other info might you need ? Thank you for taking the time to read this and any considerations you have will be appreciated.

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The lights are powered by 12v, as is the ac thermostat. Without good 12v power the lights will be dim and the t-stat will not work. When you are plugged into shore power the charger is providing adequate 12v power. When you are not plugged in, the house batteries are too weak to provide adequate 12v power. My guess is that your house batteries need to be replaced as they are not taking or holding a charge.

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Hi Electrical People,

 

1. W/ Trailer plugged in 220 50 Amp

 

a. If Battery disconnected, the lighting system in trailer is 1/2 strength on bulbs.

 

b. If running Air Conditioning and turn several of the lights on in trailer, moments later A/C is out and breaker for A/C trips.

 

2. Connect Battery - same 220 50 Amp source plugged in -

 

a. Turn on ANY light - exterior or interior, everything is the correct lumination and A/C runs fine.

 

In an older, pre converter/charger rig, this would be typical behavior. Aka, "batteries required".

 

Basically... some older rigs had the equivalent of a charger only where the 12v current is tied directly to the battery. When on shore power.. and without a battery in place.. what you are getting is "residual" 12v current (charger supplied to the battery leads and then back up the distribution lines) that is generally inadequate to fully operate all of your 12v systems.

 

If you DO have a newer rig... with converter/charger... then you're converter is probably dead/dying and is "simulating" a charger only no battery setup.. or is simply not providing full 12v current. You'll need to determine what you actually have on your 12v side, but more than likely you'll need to check your converter to ensure:

 

A. It is receiving adequate current from your 120v source.

a.1. That your cooling fan is operating.

B. 12v output is in range.

 

Depending on your converter, it may have user replaceable fuses, or more than likely will simply need to be replaced which is "reasonably" inexpensive and more cost effective than having it repaired. Depending on your current equipment.. it is generally a great time to upgrade both sides (converter/charger) of your 12v supply systems.

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Hi Paul, Thank you for the info, but the trailer is never unplugged; when plugged in to land source with the battery switched to 'connect' everything works fine, when battery turned to 'disconnect' and still plugged in to land source, problem happens--- with 12 v lamps not at full lumination and the 12 volts drops the thermostat which drops the A/C unit and trips the breaker in a very short period of time after the A/C goes off. Hope this clarifies what I tried to write before (husband here now!) and we both say: Thank you.

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Hi Yarome: We have an '07 KZ 37FK Sportster Toy Hauler. We have put an e-mail out to KZ, also left voice msgs for callbacks -- nothing yet; also trying to find electrical schematics on line. We are the second owner (recently). Husband just said he knows where converter behind panel box is and will be putting meter on it. Will check cooling fan. He thinks you may be correct with what you are saying, and he says thank you for your input, and at some point we'll be letting the forum know the results - hopefully soon, as we need to travel in two days. Thank you , again.

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We have an '07 KZ 37FK Sportster Toy Hauler.

 

also trying to find electrical schematics on line.

 

Husband just said he knows where converter behind panel box is and will be putting meter on it.

 

Your previous post to Paul does clarify things. 10-1 your converter is on the fritz. I wouldn't hold out much stock on even getting a wiring schematic from the MFG. I've never known a mfg to maintain any type of "standardized" wiring scheme.. let alone make them available to the public. It's pretty "ad-hoc" in the industry and depends on the individual installer/s.

 

What you're explaining though is quite typical. 7-8 year old converter.. always plugged in.. it's probably getting about that time. ;)

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Hey Bill, thanks for the web site tip -- price is on the low side, shipping not bad. One dealer in Michigan wanted a good $100 over the average price we were finding on line and said: "but you get a warranty with it" ! Another place was asking $330 for 2 day air and $220 for 3 day air; husband thought that included the inverter, ha ha, noooooooo. Camping World has yet to return our voice msg. Will pass along to husband. Neither one of us had stumbled across your site when we were searching, thanks. Mary

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bestconverter.com

 

This is a reputable small business. Only advice is to call first to ensure they have one physically in-stock before ordering. Good customer service.

 

PD9260C.. Good choice!! I think you'll find your batteries will love you more over your 07' unit. ;) Depending on the size of your battery bank you might consider going with a 70 or 80 amp charger... however... you mentioned you are generally on shore power full time so a 60amp is probably more than adequate. The 70amp model will probably run you $10 or so more over the 60 amp charger.. but then there will be a big price difference moving into the 80amp model. Just a general FYI

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I would like to add one comment if I may and that is to make sure you use an EMS to protect your electrics from bad shore power. I lost my converter and a TV at one RV park not knowing that bad power was an issue.

 

Imo the best one to get is a Progressive Industries EMS...comes with a lifetme warranty.

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make sure you use an EMS to protect your electrics from bad shore power. I lost my converter and a TV at one RV park not knowing that bad power was an issue.

 

How does this EMS thing hook in, where is it connected, pls?

Husband also figuring he will replace our present battery - looks like it was replaced once before.

Thanks Jim (and Yarome from before - will look at the increased amps for the money).

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Everyone, OK - converter PD9270 on order. As much as we flailed around yesterday trying to get someone to express deliver it and a lot of nonresponsive suppliers, ( ie, Camping World never answered phone msg - we were hoping to pick it up) we'll be 'winging it' the next few days traveling and the new one should get to us on Monday. We've got our present battery on a trickle charger and is doing nicely.

Both of us appreciate everyone's efforts to help us. I'll update when we figure out whether this resolves our electrical issue or not, so keep your toes crossed, please. :P Mary

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Everyone, OK - converter PD9270 on order.

 

 

Great choice and an excellent "bang for your buck" IMO. For the price difference. $10... it's really kind of a no brainier if your budget can absorb the additional cost. I think you'll be amazed at what even an "mid-high" end "smart charger" will do for your battery bank.

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