$ Spot

General RV is a nationwide chain so when looking at the listings on the web notice the location within the listing, there may be one close enough to go see.

     Spot

4 hours ago, MrJohnson89 said:

Hello! I am just at the beginning of my research into RVing, and have read many posts about people going full-time. What I cannot seem to find is someone who matches with what my family and I intended to do. Maybe someone can help or put in their two cents. What we would do, is live in the RV full time and take it for travels during my time off (every holiday, Christmas vacation, summer, spring break, etc...).  What we plan to do is buy a class A (Thor A.C.E I seem to lean towards. Maybe five or six years old). The other thing is that we have a Dodge Grand Caravan and that would be our tow. I did not have a easy time finding people who towed a van, and so that might be an early struggle as well. Anyone do this, or know anyone who lives this lifestyle and can provide input or guidance, it would be much appreciated. Again, I am only in the early stages of research and just trying to get a feel for the realm of possibility. Thanks! God bless! 

 

Welcome All vehicles that are designed to tow or have the capability to tow will have towing limits, or weight limits in other words. Plus the towing vehicle will have it's own weight limits that enters into the equation. So beginning with the towing vehicle, or in your case (potentially) the Class A there is:

• the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating which is the maximum weight the vehicle's designed for, and in your future the tongue weight of the trailer/dolly will be factored in here, as well as hitch weight
• the Gross Combined Weight Rating which another maximum weight for the towing vehicle
• the towing capacity of the towing vehicle
• the hitch capacity that is installed on the towing vehicle

I bring these up not knowing what you know about RVs towing a vehicle or towing an RV behind a vehicle. These weight limits are just that, limits on what you can/should do with a particular set up, and items to bear in mind as you do research. Check the brochures & websites for info on your future Class A for these capabilities before listening to what the salesman may say. There will also be the sticker that's required on vehicles to find this information, look inside the driver's door jamb on your van for an example. On RVs there is a sticker at an entry door and one posted on the RVs exterior. As you shop and take pictures, take a sticker picture also.

Your Dodge Grand Caravan should be weighed as it may travel, then deduct the weight of you & passengers (if you are not alone at the time) to give you an important factor in the equation. Check the Thor A.C.E. towing capabilities, hitch capacity, and the GCWR against this weight, and also include the weight of the dolly that you'll be using to tow the Grand Caravan if it's front wheel drive. On a side note, Motorhome Magazine has an assortment of Dinghy Towing Guides that may be helpful, if only for more information (prepare for overload, at first there seems too much but then it seems to level off, or maybe we just get smarter) http://www.motorhome.com/index.php?s=dinghy+towing+guides Another item I like about that mag is the amount of information that they give regarding the specs of an RV that they're reviewing, some of which you won't find on many brochures/websites.

Good luck with your search, see & get into as many RVs as you can, go to every RV Show or dealer that you can, and watch walk thru videos till your eyes bleed. You will be a smarter shopper for it because another tidbit always presents itself, something that you may not have considered before. Here's a tidbit that may alleviate some pressure, many folks don't get the right RV for them until #3 as they learn what's what on the first two. Lots of experienced folks here that are eager to help so y'all come back now hear  

     Spot

^ This parallels & validates that substance of my post. The kit is a great start, however, et cetera... And like Phil said, it's bare minimum. Room to grow from there should she choose.

     Spot

That set in the Home Depot link is a great start. Looks like it'll have what you need to take care of what you will. Have a look at your RV to see what tool(s) you would need for something that you would do. Beyond this kit, you may or may not pick up tools on an as needed basis, depending on how you'll address a project. A digital multimeter (make sure it can accurately assist with a 12V system) will come in handy as well. Auto Zone, or maybe Home Depot too, will have a flat tire repair kit that will enable you to plug a tire that has picked up a nail or similar, this could get you to a better place or even to other help to assist with changing the tire. So get a 12V air pump to go with that to get you rolling again. The Viair 12V pump has enough cord and hose to reach around the RV. https://www.amazon.com/VIAIR-45053-Automatic-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0141KJTKQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1PXMLMKYE9MZY&keywords=viair+air+compressor+450p-rv&qid=1564627771&s=gateway&sprefix=viair+air+compressor%2Caps%2C231&sr=8-2 (I've had it for a while, can't remember what I paid for it). I've accumulated some tools over the years that fit into a large portable toolbox that weighs about 50 pounds plus a smaller one that weighs about 20 pounds, plus the Viair, a ladder, couple of shovels (a real spade, not a folding thingy), and some roadside safety discs and reflective triangles, DOT approved. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=roadside+safety+discs&crid=20MHR7XUNRO7W&sprefix=roadside+%2Caps%2C423&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_4_9 (Another handy item is some Eterna-Bond tape)

     Spot

Best awning ever!

12 hours ago, Herb said:

I have my rv permanent in a campground every time I come my holding tank smell so bad I have tried everything to fix this but the next week it is the same way any idea on how to correct this

8 hours ago, Herb said:

Replaced the vents with cyclone rotating I have tried  everything 

8 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

It more than likely is a stuck open vacuum breaker on your grey water tank system. If you haven't replaced them, look for them under the kitchen sink and bathroom sinks. You would be surprised at how bad a grey tank can smell.

could this work? https://www.menards.com/main/search.html?sf_categoryHierarchy=&search=air+admitance+valve

     Spot

12 hours ago, maggie blair said:

I’m looking for info on how much solar to put on a 27ft Class C to maintain a comfortable lifestyle while boondocking.

Maggie

Peruse websites for the dimensions of solar panels which come in a variety of sizes and the take this information to the roof of your RV to see what can fit where. Feel free to use different sizes to fill your roof but try to leave some walking space for maintenance tasks.

12 hours ago, maggie blair said:

Also, I will be traveling to Yuma in the fall.  Could anyone recommend a good reliable solar installation person?

Maggie

Your schedule and your route are factors here, as well as how far you'll venture away from either. The snowbirds gather within a short drive of each other in AZ and some bring their tools and abilities. If you haven't already, register at cheaprvliving forums and present your request there as well. There are people that install for other folks and do so with a fair price and sense of community. Jamie's Van Build event and the annual RTR come to mind where friends & connections are made with folks that have a desire to help someone. Many, if not most, have installed their own and have helped others with theirs with success.

     Spot

Found this on your link's page  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-125-Volt-Straight-Blade-Grounding-Inlet-Outlet-Gray-15378-CWP/301304864?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-301304898-_-301304864-_-N

2 hours ago, jenandjon said:

I just cant figure out how I am going to run a wire across the ceiling and down the wall and outside. Without it falling down or looking too trashy. Conduit? PVC pipe? 

Do you mean to use something like this  https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-ft-Cable-Cover-with-Adhesive-Backing-33636/306838777 

     Spot

On 7/12/2019 at 4:44 PM, RV Hooligans said:

Looking for input.  RAM 3500 w/5th wheel so no room for bikes to be upright in the truck bed.

 

B: Anyone have a rack for front mounting on pickup truck for traditional bikes?

Put in your truck's info @ this website, I randomly put in a '17 Ram 350 and got this

https://www.etrailer.com/Front-Hitch/Ram/3500/2017/C31067.html?vehicleID=2017648640 

I put a Curt on my truck that's not a Ram and it's a straight forward bolt on using existing holes, their hitches are model & year specific. Ordered from etrailer.com on a Tuesday and was using the bikes on it on Friday.

     Spot

On 7/4/2019 at 6:04 PM, Carolaow said:

  They were lovely creatures and very well behaved.  Stayed outside and, even when the family was away from the site having fun, the chickens stayed close to their RV, toodling around, clucking a soft song

That's how it was with the small flock I once had

     Spot

1 hour ago, Bigthinkers said:

Are we correct in thinking the RV lifestyle tends to encourage a LOT more movement? A lot more ability to take advantage of fresh foods (I'm thinking local farmers markets, etc)? A lot more mental engagement outside the confines of "home"? A lot more inspiration and excitement about getting up each day?

Yes because the environment is ever changing & calling you, & the very nature of many RVers is adventurous.

1 hour ago, Bigthinkers said:

Or did your S&B lifestyle simply follow you on the road?

No because the environment is never changing & holding you, & the very nature of many S&Bers is sedentary.

     Spot

You know Vern, when I first seen this I thought that it would make a better garage than it would another camper, that it would add to the storage capacity of the Class B.

     Spot

Necessity is the mother of invention Sometimes I'll also see something and note other uses for it.

     Spot

I also have a front hitch on the truck and use a Swagman Escapee bike rack which is RV rated, pleased with them both. https://www.swagman.net/product/escapee/  The Swagman doesn't use a pin through the receiver but uses a bolt/pin combination, 15/16 hex head with a lock at the other end similar to other locking pins, and the hole through it is threaded. This creates a very solid connection between hitch & rack with no slop or wiggle whatsoever. Of course the bikes have weight and with motion have momentum, but that's it. It's all very solid. If I ever obtain a trailer with a hitch out back I may use it but at this point I am not concerned with that at all, being so satisfied with the front mount. I'm aware of the gyro affect Kirk alluded to that the smaller wheels have on two wheelers which is why I'll have a full size bike with, at the very minimum, 20" wheels (26" currently on my Townie, my favorite push bike of all time). Even when looking at scooters I only focused on those with 15" - 17" tires for the inherent stability (Aprilia among others in the 250cc and under class). So my vote is for option B in the original post for the comfort of a full size bike, the under 30 seconds each for two bikes for putting on/taking off/ready to ride, and the non-effect this set up has on available storage within the truck & trailer.

     Spot

2 hours ago, shooter51 said:

I have no way to scale my enclosed trailer or the 5th wheel. Having trouble finding even a ballpark number for the Rockwood. I was hoping to look up the 5er on the Rockwood site, no joy yet. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Paul in Venice

Trailers have a sticker with the weight information, although yours may be gone. That could be rough, not knowing your trailer's GVWR. If you do know it though, a ballpark weight figure to use could be 20% of the GVWR. This could help determine what size Sherline to get regarding the 5er. For your other trailer, 12% of the GVWR could be a workable figure, again just to determine what size Sherline to get. Also do a search on how to obtain tongue weight with a bathroom scale for the trailer. Some use this method alone to determine tongue weight, never getting a Sherline Scale. These percentages above are guidelines that some use for proper weight distribution (20% - 25% of 5er weight for pin weight & 10% - 15% of trailer weight for tongue weight). Another way would be as just mentioned, if you can, get to a CAT Scale or similar with truck alone and then with trailer(s) attached (don't make separate trips, just disconnect in a good spot in the lot, so two trips I guess) and the difference in rear axle weight would be tongue weight and pin weight, and would help determine what size Sherline to get. I hope these options are helpful for you.

     Spot

edit: I was just wondering if RV Trader or some other source that sells RVs would include the weight information within the listing for a particular RV. Maybe looking for your model for sale could help in getting weights.

A ballpark pin weight & tongue weight of your trailers will help and give you a baseline to work with. Too large of range on the scale and the needle may not move enough to be as accurate as you'd like, and of course too small of range on the scale will be useless. If the scale is indicating a weight that is near midpoint within the range, not exact of course but in the region, then this could provide the accuracy you seek.

     Spot

15 hours ago, oldjohnt said:

Wagler Energy Sales, 8631 E 925 N, Odon IN 47562. (812) 636-8355

 I have four of their panels on my RV rooftop. The last 305 Watt 24 volt panels (around 39 x 76 ) I bought were a bit under 85 cents per watt, they work great. Some in that community are installing 4000 or 5000 watt units for homes. With their cell phones and solar set ups they are GOING MODERN lol

John T

John, thanks so much for this info as well as the back story in the previous post. Personally, the timing in which you've shared this information is superb.

     Spot

8 hours ago, jacks said:

I wonder about basic comforts such as heating and cooling, the noise that heating and cooling produce, food prep effort, claustrafobia, and security. I recently downsized from a nice home to a small condo at age 64, single and dislike the condo due to all the noise and close neighbors, even though its on a golf course, view ,nice pools but drives me nuts with all the noise.. I see and have met people who have lived here for 15 years and I don't want to live here anymore.......jump or slowly expire? I see adventure, new experiences, meeting new humans in the jump.

 You may be feeling trapped in the condo environment while in the RV environment you're in control, leave if you like. It's not the same noise day after bloody day. It'll vary and more or less be characteristic of the location, and time of week or year. On food prep, I use griddle and grill outside and skillet or saucepan inside (really like one dish meals) and there's minimal effort here, believe me. When I had the house I heard the furnace or air conditioner break the silence just as it does in the RV, there's a little difference but definitely not a deal breaker given the adventure that awaits, and a given location can negate the use of either. Spend time in various RVs and take your time to find what you can live in, based on your own words this move seems inevitable

     Spot

Pets have personalities and provide companionship, but when considering the rules and the acceptance of dogs while RVing along with the logistics of having one or more dogs I've been thinking about getting a couple of chickens. They'd be in the Clam inside of the "doggie fence" so would not feel threatened by aerial predators, and their personalities would provide companionship (and an egg every day). Of course other pet ownership details would be included when traveling with pets.

     Spot

Nice to read a story like yours Joel, such a great outcome and on a Holiday no less. This is rooted in customer service, and based on your story and some other readings it'll be Coach-Net for me!

     Spot

Martin's post is a great example of courtesy and the community found among some RVers. His neighbor received a vibe from Martin, either implied or explicit, on Martin's 5er experience and wanted to be of some help and Martin was courteous enough to just let it happen. They each made a friend or in the least had a nice time, and I'd wager that their next meeting will be a pleasant one. 

     Spot

On 6/30/2019 at 3:21 PM, Big5er said:

$Spot, somehow I misunderstood...……… Sorry for any confusion.

No, no, no, we're good. It's all clearer than before we chatted. Thanks again 👍

     Spot

On 6/27/2019 at 6:59 AM, rollindowntheroad said:

TT would be used initially for weekends and week long vacations.  Eventually would like to full time it in when I retire so would like something fairly good size.

1 hour ago, rollindowntheroad said:

So a 5th is out, but a TT is certainly an option for me.  The other option is that it is a 4x4 and can be towed 4 down.  So a motorhome towing it behind is another option.

Sounds like an excellent plan, there are choices in travel trailers that'll be a good match for your truck. When the future arrives and retirement is at hand you will probably have a better idea what would fit you as you continue to research while using an RV regularly. FWIW, a while back I had an F150 Extended Cab 4X4 & a CAT Scale weight of 5300 pounds with me and about 100 pounds of tools, so if you still have the truck when you retire and go the Motor Home route that's a cost that you won't have to incur, with the right Motor Home. Good Luck & Happy Retirement  

     Spot

Thanks for the info and even more for the welcome to Texas When I read that portion of the pdf it made sense but seem to conflict with the chart that I found and the one that David-and-Cheryl have in their sticky that I mentioned earlier that has the GVWR as a determining rate factor. I've also read that it's good to have either a picture of the trailer's spec sticker or a spec sheet so the info on the pdf, which is what you've shared, makes even more sense. Thanks again my friend

     Spot

21 hours ago, Big5er said:

 

ALL VEHICLES
6,001 lbs. – 10,000 lbs. = $54.00
The annual registration fee for a vehicle with a gross vehicle weight of 6,001 lbs. – 10,000 lbs. is $54.00, plus applicable fees and local county fees.
Note: The gross vehicle weight of a truck is determined by adding the empty weight of the vehicle and the heaviest load that will be carried by the vehicle (carrying capacity) during the registration year.

12 hours ago, Stormin' Norm said:

I used the Box Elder address as the residence address, but block 3a on form says that if residence address listed is a PO Box (or rural box, or general delivery), that I must give the location of my residence.

4 hours ago, redcrzr said:

 I'm pretty sure you need to use the address that you used for your proof of residence.  In other words, the place you overnighted in to establish what SD considers is your address.  

What Red said makes sense, you have a residence on file that's on your driver's license, insurance files, IRS files, registration, etc., and it's not a P O Box or the like. That is the address that should be used, right?

     Spot