trimster

This style works pretty good I have found (In other cars). https://hidheadlight.com/products/2013-smart-fortwo-led-low-beam-bulb-h7?variant=32628974387275&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjo2JBhCRARIsAFG667XIhdzKk9E6cRO7PdA-kUV48nsTjhN9H8Ow2nBW_jtafFAwPb3xJZQaAtVNEALw_wcB https://hidheadlight.com/products/h7-led-headlight-conversion-kit-1 I'm going to put them in my 2013 Smart when I get time.

I've got this posted in the marketplace but I know there's a lot of Smart car owners here. This rack is for the 451 model version of the Smart Fortwo . They're well over $300 with the double bike rails and mount kit. Asking $100. If you can arrange for shipping (UPS I would imagine) I'll drop it off for boxing at the UPS store. Message me if interested. If you're coming thru Salt Lake City, you can drop by and pick it up.

Nice. I have the winch on the truck-side. I pull up a Can Am trike as well. Need to build a pull-bar across the fender/frame pull points. Fortunately my Smart has front and read pull points exposed. Should be easy. Just need to get some steel tubing like you show in your setup. I'm imagining that you have those eye bolts thru a slot in the back of the tubing? I think I will just bolt the tubing right to the pull points and call it good. Extra crash protection 🤔

Thanks. Helpful.

So the radio is dead. No power. Does not fire up. I'm thinking it's toast. But I will pull it out and check for power to the connector...if I can find the right pin.

Okay. Battery was replaced a short while ago. Maybe that triggered it. Where does one enter the code? This unit does not come on at all.

So, here in Utah and the region, the gas versions are still holding higher prices. Electrics...not so much. We bought the one I listed. Paid too much probably. Having the front and rear tow bar mounts already done is valuable for us. I now have the really cool bike rack and the StowMaster 5000 tow bar for sale. The only big surprise is that the radio head unit does not work. I think it can be replaced with something better. Researching this now.

So, I guess I could put just the aluminum rims (without tires) on the inside to preserve total width.

Think we have found a good 2013 Smart locally. $9600 https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7336841 It's in super shape. One owner. It has comes with the bike rack shown in the listing (which is tied to the rear two bumper tow bolts). Downside is no turbo and automatic, which is kinda gutless. First time I have driven one of these. Roomy inside but no really getup and go. Tires are close to the wear bars. It was a toad for a while. So it has the tow kit attachments in the front, wiring, and the tow bars included. I'll probably sell the tow bar. Thoughts on this one, welcome.

Outlaw tire scenario?

The other question...can the Smart hitch handle it's own weight? Hook to the hitch and pull it up on the bed.

Not doubting your 1:1 with a snatch block. But online sites about this stuff shows the following: If load N=100 The rope to the block 'sees' N=100 The rope returning to the tie-off point also sees N=100. That's 1:1 in my mind. Again. Not a mechanical lever wizard here. Just trying to figure it out.

Looking up block n tackle ratios. ... Winch to load (direct), and winch to pully on load back to winch support is 1:1. Maybe I've misread the drawings/tutorials.

2:1 ratio requires out-back-out. Just out-back is still 1:1 I think. So 60' min.

12' ramps kinda fix that distance.

So 2:1 ratio. Have to check if the winch drum will handle that much line. 50' has it about 90% full now. I'd need 75' to do the 2:1 ratio.

Having NOT personally moved a Smart onto the bed of the truck, there's two options: Drive it or winch it on. I'm setup for the winch option now. The question(s)... 1) is the tow package installed on the Smarts strong enough to support the weight of the car while being winched aboard? 2) is a 3000# winch enough to pull it up? It currently works pretty hard pulling our 1000# Spyder up, but it does so without a glitch. The Smart tips the scales around 2000#. Not sure how to calculate the 'load' with it going up the ramps. 12' ramps, 47" rise.

I'm considering moving both axles to super-singles. Right now I have a mix of previously owned virgin and recaps that came with the truck. 4 and 4 to be exact. I'm thinking of moving to super-singles on both axles. However, budgets won't allow for a full change-over. I'd like to do one axle at a time. I understand that there will be a difference in tire diameter so running with the axles locked is not a good thing. I only lock the axles when I am on rough, gravel, or uneven terrain where it might lift and axle and lose power to the ground. Otherwise, they are unlocked. Thoughts welcome. Please, this is not a discussion about super singles vs duels. I think I have a good grasp on that issue and have pretty much made a decision.

I put a Champion generator in a custom enclosure behind the rear axles. Had a local fab shop create an enclosure with a slide out tray (to service the generator) and holes for airflow, a radiator fan to suck air through the cabinet, etc. Now, after a few months on the road, I've leaned a ton. The up and down forces on the generator are massive. The generator jumps up and down (90lbs) and ends up sideways in the cabinet. I strapped it down with trucker strength bungies and that didn't stop the movement. I now have it strapped in with webbing. If the truck were singled, I would have mounted the genny and cabinet in front of the axles. More like where an APU is typically mounted. The generator cabinet is beefy steel with fish-plated top section. The cabinet is basically hung in place with additional supports down the front side to stop any swinging movement. It has help up very well under some brutal roads. I would like a diesel generator, but that was not in the budget. I added a 7 gal gas tank above the cabinet (under the bed deck) for additional run time.

Bolt boss... that's a mounting point on the metal bumper?

Apparently there's a second one on the right side. Just not cut out of the body work.

So looking at the UK Smart forum, newer (451) models, they have 2 tow bolt attachments on the front bumper. UK version has only one. They swapp out the bumper under the body. I think they are the same bolt size as the rear tow attachment points. Seems one could just purchase the 3rd party bolts, fab up a square tube cross bar and hook point.

Spendy mount... Blue Ox BX2004 Baseplate for Smart Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197YIR2C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_TFQ2B8Y50ZABRWX22VS1 I think there's a company in calif that makes an adapter of some kind. I'll research.

This thread comes at a perfect time for us. We too are getting ready to park a Smart on the truck. Want to winch it up on the truck. Where/how do I connect to it? Following with keen interest.

Thanks. We'll be in that area because of a big spyder ride for a week. 40 trikes so far, out of Delta. Last weekend of Sept.