DesertMiner
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Posts
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Posts posted by DesertMiner
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2 hours ago, NDBirdman said:
Just curious, in those states a non-commercial class A license is required, are you required to have a medical card like the commercial class A holders?
Can't speak to the other states requirements but in California a medical card is required. It's a "self certify" and renewable every two years.
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Are you still licensed in California? Might want to get that license upgraded if you are over 15k. If not, it’s a moot point and you can chalk it up to the DMV! The rules are pretty black and white as they stand today. I don’t think California has a “grandfather” clause when it comes to licensing for different classes of vehicles I pretty sure you need to have the current class of license for the vehicle you are driving. And as always YMMV. As a side note CHP has been known to stop folks at some of the more popular desert ATV spots and weight folks and it’s a long walk home! The funny thing is most folks have no idea about the weight classes and don’t even realize they are not legal pulling that toy-hauler.
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You might also check the turbo actuator to see if you have full movement. Might explain low turbo boost pressure. Could be why your Jake isn’t working properly. What where your EGT’s with boost at 20 psi when pulling those hills?
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Best to get the truck first and then do the measurements. Then decide your next move.
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Ever watch Rawze's series of videos on maintaining the ISX? Lots of things could cause your problems.....most likely sensor related if you haven't changed them in a while. Soot is not your friend.....
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Do DRV’s come wired to activate the “scare lights” when the TV is put in reverse or is this an added option?
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The “lights” ECM is called the “LCM”. Some LED bulbs are “polarity sensitive” and will only work in a socket that is wired with the correct polarity. Incandescent bulbs are not as sensitive and can work in a socket that is wired with incorrect polarity. Your trailer lights may be wired wrong but still work but not when connected to the truck. The LCM May be “seeing” the wrong polarity or might see it as a direct short. Can you remove the bulbs in the scare lights to see if the bulbs are causing the problem? Are the scare lights hooked up so they cannot come on when hooked up to the truck? Might be a wiring “disagreement”! Are you using a “Jackalopee” and running the reserve light circuit through it?
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First step in the quest for solar powered independence is to do an “energy audit”. This can tell you what power requirements you presently have and what it might take to have these needs covered. It can also give you some numbers to work with when you start to design your “boondocking” system. A “shunt style” bidirectional battery monitor is a very useful piece of equipment to help you “see” your actual battery usage. Baby steps are important so you can be educated when you talk to an installer to make sure they understand your wants and needs when designing your system so you are both happy in the end.
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Hey Mr Cob did you have your “drag chains” installed when you slipped off that icy road?
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My hyd slide pump can take more than 50 amps but my hyd levelers can use much more. I have 2) 24-12 Dc converters that are rated at 70 amp with a momentary surge of 85 amps I’ve got them running in parallel. Plenty of amps available. The 12 volt out put is also adjustable and they can also be used to charge a 12 v battery if need be.
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You can do that if you like. Just need someway to charge them!
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If you do FB there is a gentleman that might help you. It seems he has info on how to get the right docs. He posted on the HDT group.
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25 minutes ago, hemsteadc said:
I've been doing it a long time. Victron 48v->12v 360w converter.
x2 Victron 24v-12v 70amp x2
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Try this......
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14 minutes ago, Kirk W said:
If you want to be able to operate an air conditioner through the night you must have a generator. RV air conditioners are 120V-ac power and do not operate from the RV batteries.
Be careful when you make “blanket” statements that may not be true! There are folks that can and do run an air conditioner from their batteries all night!
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Question.... if you only have one plate and it’s on the rear of the truck how do you use “toll roads”?
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There are “dc clamp on meters”!
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On 2/25/2019 at 1:23 PM, SuiteSuccess said:
Looks like my clear coat is starting to peel. Is this something that can be easily repaired with sanding, spraying and feathering?
What do you do to fix this?
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You might reach out to a member by the name of Jemstone I think he may of had his HDT registered in Arizona.
Sometimes in a non HDT friendly state you can get it done if your current registration is already as an RV.
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2 hours ago, hemsteadc said:
You'll love it. No watering, no corrosion, no gassing, no hydrometers, no 50% restrictions, light, and maybe never have to replace it.
Just bring a “fat wallet” they are a bit pricey!
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So if you are caught in bad weather and chain up the truck.... what about the 5er? Chains?
x2 Victron 24v-12v 70amp x2
Lubricity additive: Do you use one or not?
in HDT
Posted · Edited by DesertMiner
My older Cummins ISX sometimes has problems with asphaltene and the only additive I have found that is designed to address this called Penray. Ive been using it at each fill up and it’s seems to have decreased the amount of black particles in my Davco fuel/water separator. As the info states it does add lubricity as well as a cetene booster. I’ve also used Opti-Lube products and they get good reviews here.
Diesel Kleen products also work well as Brad mentioned.