Av8r3400

Why not just rent an actual tractor and do this right rather than potentially sticking or seriously damaging your truck?

1 hour ago, jenandjon said:

I roll mine up the best I can, Put a couple zip ties on it and throw it in a tote so it dont tangle up with everything else.

That’s how we do it too.  I have several labeled totes in the basement, items like “sewer hose gear”, “electrical cables”, “water hose gear”, “tools”, etc.  They all can be kept organized and separated.  

7 hours ago, billr said:

Water filter store hoses custom made not crazy $. Have used these for over 12 yrs on our fifth wheel. Moved them to a park model and they are in 5th year. Using shorter hoses from them for softener etc. 
 

They hold up very well. A new set are in use now on our current fifth wheel. 

I’m not afraid of spending a little money for a quality product, but $115 plus tax and shipping for a 50’ hose, sight unseen, is definitely a leap of faith...

You guys with the Flexzilla hoses, some of the reviews say they are prone to grow mold in them, have you seen this at all?

Zero-G is shut down due to the Covid-hysteria, according to their customer service folks. 🤬🤬

13 minutes ago, Nwcid said:

I also use the Zero-G hoses.  They are light, very flexible and durable.  They do some in garden and potable versions, https://www.amazon.com/4001-50-Lightweight-Flexible-Durable-Kink-Free/dp/B014M9PEXC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2N7SEUX9BV40N&dchild=1&keywords=zero+g+potable+water+hose&qid=1601396882&sprefix=zero+g+pot%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-3

I have 3 of them, one 50' which is my primary potable hose.  I have a 25' that is my extra potable hose and a 25' that is my general use hose.  I also keep the original 25' and 50' white hoses stored away just incase.  

Since we rarely have full hook ups I have quick connects on all of my hose fittings.   

I would have already pulled the trigger on one of these Zero-G models, but they are out of stock for the blue potable models everywhere I have looked on line.  🤬

So, I may try one of the RVWaterfilterstore.com models.  

3 hours ago, Mark and Dale Bruss said:

We had hoses from http://www.rvh2o.com/ and the rvwaterfilterstore.  More expensive but we used one for 13 years and the other for 14 years now..

2 hours ago, Jaydrvr said:

We really like this one.. http://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.samsclub.com/p/lightweight-hose-75f/prod21991834&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwj2jez9hY7sAhWwl-AKHcgdA4MQFjAAegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw0_ono3znsoa8wy6zoMErPf

Are these white hoses made of a different material than the normal stuff?   My major complaint is not kinking but flexibility to store the hose when not in use.  
 

my current hoses are like trying to roll up a 2x4...

23 minutes ago, Chalkie said:

I have been using the Zero-G hose I got at Lowes. I like that it is flexible and lightweight. It is certified for potable water. Comes in 25, 50 and 100 foot lengths.

 

Zero-G Hose

Are you using the black (Garden) one or the blue (potable) one?

Anyone ever try this type:

https://www.apexhose.com/zero-g-rv-marine-hose

I absolutely HATE my water hoses for our camper!  White, plastic, Wal Mart quality garbage that is stiff and inflexible.

Who has a better quality hose for potable water??

HELP!

 

I also have a Dezl. I got the one with a built in dash-cam.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010D2URZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 hour ago, david carter said:

is this beast still available would like to talk 0614kad@cox.net, thanks David

I"m pretty sure Brett sold it.

I run a Garmin Dezl GPS with a dash cam built into it.  I like it very much.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010D2URZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

7 minutes ago, Nwcid said:

Are air lockers not fairly standard in HDT?  

Unfortunately no.  I wish mine had one.  $5-7k to convert from an open diff to a locker per rear end.

I had mine done at the dealer with new bags and shocks all the way around.  $1500.  Worth it to avoid the aggravation!

2 minutes ago, GlennWest said:

Had kingpin bushings put in. all tie rod and joints good. Still mushy. Had 4 wheel alignment too. I might need to tighten steering box some more.It is drivable now but not pleasurable.

Obviously it isn't a Corvette handling vehicle, but I can drive with my fingertips and it tracks wonderful down the road.  I did replace the steering shaft u-joints a little while back and that cleaned up some slop in the steering wheel.  If you do this yourself be aware that there is a steering angle sensor (in the column) that needs to be recalibrated afterward.

I love the air ride front on my truck.  It handles fine and rides like a dream.  If you guys are chasing the steering on your truck, have the king pins, tie rods, steering box and steering shaft checked.  If these are in good working order the air ride front drives awesome.  

This isn't just stupid me making this comment, a good friend and professional driver with several million miles experience (now retired) helped me inspect and test drive my truck when I first got it.  He stated that he loved the way the truck drove, handled and wished his brand new Freightliner drove half as well.

As to changing the ride height, the major question is WHY?  These trucks are engineered to ride with a certain distance from the axle to the frame.  The leveling valves maintain this.  Changing that height changes not only the driveline angles, introducing wear and vibration, but also the alignment of the chassis possibly leading to tire issues or even handling quirks that could be dangerous.

Tandem Inter-lock and diff-locks will be mandatory for you.  I wouldn’t singe with your plans in mind.  I would also consider higher traction tires rather than the quieter highway tires on most HDTs. 

6 hours ago, Steve from SoCal said:

Is there a particular flavor of this stuff you suggest?

 

Steve

The brand I use is "Sika".  However you can get similar at NAPA.  I think they carry a DOW product.  Just get the matching primmer and any other "support" items.

I’m in the auto glass business.  A bolt in, butyl sealed back glass is common in older Ford pickups.  The rest of the world uses urethane caulk to adhere and seal glass to the body.  The latter would definitely be the way I’d recommend.  

When I had the bucket-truck here to stain my house, I used it to do the roof of the truck and trailer...

I went to my local truck supply place and asked what they had.  I found mine that were meant to have taillights in them for super cheap because they couldn't sell them.  No one wanted them.  They were exactly what I wanted.  This is how I found them on their back warehouse shelf, covered in dust from sitting there for a couple years.  $300 for the pair, with mounts and hardware.

Thanks, Dan!  That's awesome!

Paul, I hope you can get the vertigo sorted out, that's not fun at all. 

I hope we will still see you next year at the ECR, with or without the big truck!