Jump to content

Av8r3400

Validated Members
  • Posts

    860
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Av8r3400

  1. 21 hours ago, trimster said:

    We're walking away from this truck. The yellow pig-pen. I think it would be a lot of work to get the smoke smell out. Like pulling the interior and replacing the insulation, deep cleaning, etc. I don't think the price will come down enough to offset the personal downtime and work.

    From several others, the leaking is probably coming from a bad roof seal where the roof meets the cab sides. Re-sealing seems to be the fix.

    Thanks for the input folks. Means a lot.

    Bob & Lisa

    I was very glad to read this.  Walking away was your best option on that particular truck.

    There are a lot of non-smoking trucks out there.  Ours was a non-smoker and we have had zero water issues.  That truck had problems written all over it.

    Keep looking, you'll find something.

    (I and some others on this site had real good luck with RDO in Fargo ND.  Ask for John.)

  2. 10 hours ago, castlewood57 said:

    What are you looking at for a cab cam system?  Are you recording?
    I am looking at adding some additional insulation to get things a bit more quiet during travels, it's ok now, but would like to dampen the noise levels down a bit more,  I figured since I am ripping things up now anyway,  it's the right time to do it.

     

    My camera system is the actual "Cab-Cam" brand unit.   It does not record as I have it configured.  It may be possible, but this isn't a feature I wanted.  Mine has is a screen capable of up to 4 cameras.  I currently have two (2), one showing the hitch and one to be mounted on the back of our trailer.  These are wired cameras.  I am hoping to get this system installed prior to leaving for the ECR (weather permitting).

  3. 1 hour ago, SuiteSuccess said:

    Dan,

    Did you see my binder with the above stuff last year?  If not take a look in April.  Other nice thing is have all those papers in a binder (mine are separated in plastic sleeves) with a table of contents in the front.  That way if the LEO asks you can politely ask if he would like the binder to look at.  Just make it conspicuous that you have everything he could ever need in an easy to read organized fashion.  If you pull a folder of loose papers and are shuffling them trying to find what he is asking for, it will make the situation worse for you.  Also I believe it’s LexisNexis that has most of the statutes.

    Carl - How about a "share your binder" gathering at the ECR?

  4. I just received from Don Rowe my Kisea Abso 2000.  Hoping for warm weather to get it installed before April...

     

    Jack Mayer - You recommended to me once a while back a source for the chrome (stainless?) plugs for shore power and block heater, can you remind me where they come from?

  5. 20 hours ago, mr. cob said:

    My Pete, has the 550 HP C-15 Cat, 18 speed auto-shift and 3.55 gears in the diff's, 1,500 RPM at 72 MPH and that seems to be it's sweet spot, it just pulls.  Having the 18 speed is WONDERFUL, being able to split gears it's always possible to have it in the right gear no matter what the road situation.  I love it.

    A little off topic, but does your transmission shift through all 18 in normal operation or does it skip up and down if conditions don't need all 18?

     

     

    On topic - I'm following this because I do not have a locker in my truck at this time and this is the one option that I would like to add to the chassis.  Is it possible that I could use the existing pneumatic plumbing for the power divider to run the locker?  (No additional switches or computer programming needed) Since I'm singled the PD is no longer there and I use that switched air currently for the hitch.  I plan to change my hitch air to a constant source rather than switched.

  6. Not being an electronics expert, having a "pure sine" wave inverter makes "cleaner" power for use with sensitive electronics?  Does this really matter for normal electric use?  (EG a window fan, phone charger or even laptop charger I have a new 12v Volvo fridge in there)  I could understand if I was plugging in an actual desktop computer or something like that.

    I see the  Kisae model makes a little more (and pure sine) power for only a moderate ($50) more than the Xantrex.

     

    Thanks again for taking questions from the extreme ignorant.

  7. I'm looking for recommendations and opinions on an inverter/charger for my Volvo.

    I've had my eye on a Xantrex Freedom 1800 watt model for some time, but I'm curious if there is a newer/better model.  What are you all using and what do you like - dislike about it?

  8. On 11/6/2019 at 8:37 PM, SuiteSuccess said:

    Yes, but....but....it’s got an ashtray!!  Grandma could have her Pall Malls rolled up in her t- shirt sleeve and hanging out the drivers window.  Scare every trucker within 30 miles.

    Only if she has her chain drive wallet and engineer boots to match...

  9. I have an iShift Trans in my Volvo with the "primium" shifter.

    Lately we have had some issue going into reverse.  It acts like the shift handle is not moving far enough to get reverse.  Some fiddling and patients gets it into reverse and all was well.

    Today we went to drive the truck, the shifter was in the "retracted" position.  It was moved upright to neutral and then into "drive".  The driver display showed "manual" and trying to put it into "drive" didn't change anything on the display.  The shifter was in effect stuck in "manual".  It wouldn't go to "drive", "neutral", or "reverse".

    I drove the truck home where I have tools and could do something.  (The local dealer was the first choice, but they closed at noon...)

    When we got home, I parked the truck where I could pull it around and get it out again if the shifter fix was unsuccessful.

    I took off the cover of the shift handle and took it all apart.  I should have video'ed the process, but I was able to figure out the mechanism and found the main shifter arm attached to the handle had come out of it's proper position, not allowing proper shifting.  There is what is best described as a "sensor" on the left side of the mechanism and the shift handle and buttons move little arms with small magnets on them for the sensor to follow.  (Seems a little over complicated to me, but I'm not an electrical engineer...)  Kind of a Pandora's box of pieces and parts.  Some patients and putzing around with all the little bits and I was able to figure it out.

    I got it back together and it is working properly now.  I wish I had an exploded view of this assembly...

     

    When I was having issues with going into reverse, I asked the dealer if the shifter could be out of adjustment or something.  I was told it was a "non-serviceable" item and would need to be replaced and the computer reprogrammed to match a new shifter, to the tune of near $2000...

     

     

     

     

     

     

  10. I just converted to 17.5 Alcoas.  I needed to replace the brake drums with 9/16" studded drums.  This allows for the "Hub Piloted" 17.5 wheels to center properly.  My OEM 1/2" stud drums were "stud piloted" therefore not compatible with the new wheels.

    I got the entire kit of drums, wheels, lugs etc. from Southwest wheel.  I sourced the tires locally.  I was a little disappointed with the Chinese "bearings in a bag" that came with the kit.  I replaced them all with name brand "Timken" bearings and seals.

    I went with an 245/70R17.5 18 ply 6200 pound tire.  No more blowouts.  Wheels and tires will follow me to new trailer when that happens.

     

    jo6S9Wq.jpg

     

×
×
  • Create New...