Sehc

Isn't CR the same as County Road in Postal Talk? Try sending yourself a letter or package.

You will find the bushing in the spring eye will be worn. That is what allowed the bolt to pound the shackle out of round.

A basic rule if there even is one.   LiFePo4 will provide 80% or 90% of their AH. Lead chemistry about 50% rated AH. Plus LiFePo holds near the same voltage top to bottom. I am converting my 460ah  GC2 system to LiFePo 200ah. The GC2 is oversize to start. Rod Collins has about the best read on the subject here:: https://marinehowto.com/lifepo4-batteries-on-boats/

I am familiar with the Mr Buddy heaters and have used one. They have a small pilot flame that reduces even smaller in low oxygen to shut down the heater. I had a catalytic heater in my class b. It was by Coleman and had a fan. Got nice and warm. Started it in am and huddled over it before coffee. But the windows had to be open. The condensation was unbelievable. 2018 I installed a Suburban RV vented furnace. Set the thermostat, stay warm all night. AM kick the thermostat up and relax with my coffee. The last two winters were much happier.

I am just giving Glenn something to look at. My system is designed and in the build stage. I am using 12 volts as I don't need the power that others use. Sterling has quality equipment. Also Victon has 12/24 volt stuff that is designed to play together. Not for Glenn

I'm learning about lithium battery. I hear much good about Sterling marine grade chargers. I know they have 48 volt stuff. They also have DC to DC that are recommended for lithium. Sterling is pricey.

This was on a very old thread.  This does sound like a failed negative connection. Chassis to engine, or battery. Also look for burnt fusible links. Usually near the battery.

Did it not have a fuse? 

You do have to admit, though,  that is a long rig.

Replaced battery.   Check for fuses, circuit breakers, and most likely a fusible link that has melted out. Could be a bad ground. Chassis to engine.

Those one pound tanks also have a pressure release valve. They need be stored upright away from heat. Torch handles can be left on with no flame but still dumping liquid propane.

My compressor fridge is not vented to outside. So if living space gets too cold the compressor just turns off. I would be wary of an absorption fridge that was not ventilated. Be careful.

Invent some way to anchor the mattress at the "top" when closed. Then it hangs. 

If not kept at 100% charged, the AGM battery could be done for after three months. But i bet you have a load some place. 

Most supplement plans use attained age to set the premium. Different companies charge different premiums. It is all specific to the client and personal. Any chart will be only close to your real costs.  

It is illegal to trap cats in some areas of the country. You must get permission first. Check with the local shelter or animal control first.

 I do reports for local utility. I have a Office 365 subscription. I'm happy. My clients are happy. I am always up to date with bells and whistles.  

Wild and crazy frontier of mobile solar power. I'm glad I only have 400 watts. It is a fun project.

If your steering specifies motor oil, Rotella is a good oil. I only use what is recommended by manufacturer. Transmission fluid, or power steering fluid, or maybe even 30w. 

I looked at that thing by Midnite. It is meant for house, roof top, earth referenced systems. I don't see what good it could do on a RV.  With a RV or trailer, there is no "ground" reference for it's operation. We do have to be careful with higher voltage dc,  but I don't think this devise will help. Maybe John could look. Midnite site;  https://www.solar-electric.com/mndc-gfp.html

My solar would send at most 20 volts dc to the controller and battery. I am not concerned with GFCI on that. Some solar panels are operating at 100's of volts. That would be a problem needing GFCI.

My 2000W inverter has the GFCI built into the 120 volt outlet. I connected the hard wire circuit to not be on the GFCI. It is wise to have GFCI on 120V ac. It is regulation in most building codes for some areas. Like near water or outside. 

If the cables from the panel to controller are sized to handle over the dead short output of the panel, no fuse is needed. Victron specks breakers on the positive and negative to enable disconnect of the panels from controller. With MPPT controller, it is important that the panels are not connected to the controller without the battery bank being connected. A heavy duty switch could handle that with less voltage drop.

With my former suggestions of wire awg, I was thinking with my 12 volt brain. 48 volt can use smaller wires with less voltage drop.  Fuses protect wires.

Three batteries. Three 4awg cables to one bus bar. Three separate 175 amp fuses. One 4awg from the bus bar to load. Dead short in last 4awg could pull 525 amps from the bank. 4awg can not handle that.  I use marine grade wire so my ampere ratings could be different than yours. Marine wire is rated at 205 degree Celsius. I would have 150 amp fuses at each battery and another 150 amp fuse at the other side of the bus bar.  

As breakers. The DC "interrupt capacity" is the rating you want to know. Remember a shorted battery can have tens of thousands amperes for a short time and weld the contacts in a breaker.  Blue Sea, known for their quality, only have DC Breakers up to 200 amps.

The panel to controller usually doesn't need fusing. There are exceptions with more than 3 panels in parallel. But a switch is good to have if needing to disconnect batteries or controller for any reason. . 

Fuses are sized to protect the wire or cable. You need a fuse to protect the wire from battery to bus bar. A fuse at bus bar to protect any change wire size. Example; 2/0awg battery to bus bar, 250-300 amp fuse at battery. 2awg bus to fuse panel, 150 amp fuse at bus bar.