oldjohnt

First off I agree with neighbor Ray to clean the coils, and of course that means BOTH the easy to get to Condensor PLUS Evaporator (which some people don't) as well as any interior foam type strip air filters. I use my air compressor plus a soft brush so I don't bend any of the delicate fins. They make a powerful spray coil cleaner I've seen RV AC techs use, but the solution is fairly strong so make sure no spray ends up other then on the coils Next, even if the unit normally draws say 12.5 amps, TO ME THATS TOO MUCH CURRENT FOR A 15 AMP BRANCH CIRCUIT BREAKER (I wouldn't use over 12 amps) and assuming its a Thermal Magnetic Breaker, a long continuous 12 to 13 amp draw could eventually trip the thermal, and of course your reported 17.5 amps will trip it quickly. Id fell better if a 12 to 14 amp unit were on a 20 amp branch circuit then a 15 amp.............. While capacitors can go bad, I suspect you unit just has a START Capacitor instead of any START and RUN, so such is NOT my "first" suspect (still anything is possible) . Is the fan motor clean and free, that's easy to see and get to, its not running overly hot is it????? If you clean both coils and the interior air filter and there's no bad capacitor (which I doubt is the problem) and all electrical connections (breaker and panel and at unit) are good yet she still draws 17.5 amps, I think Id have an RV AC Tech take a look as there may be a compressor or Freon problem. Last time I talked to one and he discussed the cost to perform a line tap to check Freon and/or or add any versus the cost of a new unit, I decided to try and check it wasn't worth it since it may fail again and then all that money would be wasted. John T NOT an AC expert or tech by any means, so see what the experts have to say or add to this.................

YES I also think its a "good idea" and agree with Kirk, Id buy a unit at Lowes or Home Depot or Ace Hardware versus an RV supplier as its cheaper PLUS you can pick up filter tubes about anywhere in the US. As far as dinking water ONLY, hopefully installed under the kitchen sink if space is available? Id go with the dual filter with BOTH sediment plus charcoal. However if you use a filter on the incoming city water supply, Id just use a single sediment filter as it will drop less pressure, be easier to replace the single element, plus for showers and washing dishes its less critical YET YOUR DRINKING WATER IS STILL DOUBLE PROTECTED. That being said and despite the above dual filtration, for drinking water and coffee we still keep 2 or 3 gallon jugs (plus the typical small plastic bottles) you can by cheap at Wally World etc and refill them for 15 to 25 cents. We do that because despite any dual filtration as above, you may be where the water supply is well water or no telling what and I trust the jug water quality better then maybe a well like at some Natl Forest. But if you're gonna carry jugs for drinking water anyway, why do all the above lol maybe just an in line sediment filter when connected to the utility??? Your choice John T

Yates, you ask "Would 11.8 be low enough to cause issues?" YES that could cause some "issues" (but even at 11.8 or lower LED's or other indicators should at least do something) 11.8 volts sounds awfully LOW for your "battery voltage" and Dinosaur Electronics (when they helped me troubleshoot my Dometic) indicated low voltage could cause the control board to NOT open the gas valve and fire the ignitor HOWEVER that doesn't explain a condition where nothing lights up whatsoever???????? How accurate is your voltmeter??? A good full charged 12 volt battery at rest and stabilized should read around 12.6 volts, 12 is like 50% discharged, and 11.8 is low for a charged battery. SEE WHAT THE VOLTAGE DOES WITH THE BATTERY CHARGER OPERATING Probably something simple were all overlooking but not being there its just hard to say. Kirk sent you the manual so go with its recommendations versus over the net guesses lol. I do remember Dinosaur talking about circuit boards and the eyebrow panel on mine could be the problem. The main thing I learned about how low voltage could affect circuit control board functions on my Dometic fridge was when the tech asked if I had a good voltmeter and I responded so far I ONLY used a test lamp whereupon he respond NOOOOOOOOOOOOO WAY a few tenths of low voltage can disenable the control board especially when it comes to ignitor and gas valve operation for safety purposes SO LOW VOLTAGE CAN CAUSE ISSUES according to that tech at least, but I cant guarantee such on all makes and models of course or that technicians knowledge. Just for the fun of it, Id still measure voltages and observe what happens if plugged into shore power and the battery charger raises battery voltage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Let us know what you find, it may help others in the future John T

I'm in agreement with the good gents who question whether or not a good 12 VDC SOURCE is present at the very INPUT to the fridge there on its rear where the 12 VDC supply makes its initial entrance????????? Its good you checked the 12 VDC distribution panel (and any fuse to fridge) where all the fuses are that serve the entire coach,. If 12 VDC is present there and through any fuse (or a branch circuit) to the fridge, it ought to be present at the very input to the fridge itself unless there's a bad ground or a wiring or terminal problem/open. NOTE I cant know sitting here if your fridge is powered direct from your battery bank (and it should also be fuse protected even if not via the panel) ORRRRRRRRR via the 12 VDC distribution panel, but much of that below still holds true YOU GOTTA HAVE GOOD NON RESISTIVE 12 VOLTS TO THE FRIDGE ITSELF. Are all the other 12 VDV circuits operative such as vent fans and water pumps and lights etc???? When you checked those fridge circuit board fuses, where you maintain they are okay, is 12 VDC present there??? I once had an inoperative fridge (ignitor board wouldnt fire nor open the gas valve) and had Dinosaur Electronics on the phone helping me troubleshoot AND WAS WARNED LOW VOLTAGE, even though approx. 12 VDC measured on a crude meter existed, could disable the electronic circuitry. Moral of the story, what matters is what voltage exists once a load is actually applied, as a bad/loose/resistive yet not totally open connection in the fridges 12 VDC supply circuit would still indicate the presence of 12 volts, UNTIL a load were applied and current flowed (V = I x R) . IE even if fuses are okay and 12 unloaded volts appears initially, ITS STILL POSSIBLE A LOOSE OR BAD CONNECTION EXISTS in the supply circuit. However, the electronic control circuitry requires low current (while gas solenoid valve does) as compared to what any 12 VDC (if the fridge even has that feature which many dont???) heater would, which makes me suspect more along the lines THERES NO 12 VOLTS PERIOD versus a bad/resistive connection as the problem. If the loaded supply (no loose connections) and all fuses are good but still no operation, then I'm out to lunch as the electronic circuitry or cards or boards etc. may be at fault. AS ALWAYS A BAD GROUND CAN ALSO CAUSE ALL SORTS OF PROBLEMS grrrrrrrrrrrr DOES IT MATTER IF THE COACH IS PLUGGED INTO SHORE POWER (I'm thinking about the low voltage condition I mentioned) HAVE YOU JIGGLED OR REMOVED OR MESSED WITH OR INSURED A GOOD FIT AT THE EYEBROW PANEL Best wishes John T Live from San Diego