mike5511
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Posts posted by mike5511
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If memory serves me correctly, the DirecLink will plug right up to the Prodigy wiring harness.
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No. Just be careful, swing wide on turns until you get the feel. Keep your speed under control going off a hill, use your gears and engine brake. Don't follow too close. Remember how tall you are. Look down the road where you want to go and don't try staying in your lane by using your mirrors. Not saying don't check them, but many people will spend all their time looking in their mirrors trying to stay in their lane. No need to do that. Check them often, but look where you want to go and you will go there. The feel will come to you before you know it. (and stay in the slow lane.)
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16 hours ago, lappir said:
That's a good thought. When do you expect to repack them?
Rod
About as often as I do my car or pickup. As long as the seals are good and the grease doesn't leak out, they will be good. I jack it up and spin them and listen once a year or so and check for any play. My trailer has duals. I don't expect any problems unless a seal goes. I do keep a good eye on that.
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I've got 9000 lbs Dexter axles with oil bath hubs that were grease filled from the factory. I called Dexter about switching to the oil bath. Their advice was that if my trailer sat a lot, like most RV trailers, the grease was better. Why? The oil will drain down over time and the bearing will dry out and possibly even rust. That won't happen with grease. Makes sense, and Dexter should know. Thus, when I put new Timken bearings in, I went back with Mobil 1 grease. My hubs don't leak, so I know the grease is still in there. (plus I did pull a cap and looked) Haven't messed with them since I did that 3 years ago.
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Looking good my friend!!!👍
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I really feel lucky reading everybody else's insurance woes. I forget what I'm paying exactly, but when I changed from the 1 ton to the HDT, my insurance dropped about $40 a year. (2015 1 ton to 1998 Volvo, full coverage) My HDT is registered as non-commercial. They put "pickup" on the title. They didn't know what else to call it, lol. The non-commercial fee was the same for a pickup or a motorhome, so it didn't really matter what they called it. (all they are interested in is the revenue). Southern Farm Bureau has had all my insurance needs for the past 30 years or so. I had to explain what I was doing with the truck, but there were no problems getting a policy. And, there shouldn't be! (I'm in Arkansas) FWIW
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4 hours ago, runaway parents said:
So I'm going to put this topic to bed finally. What you all have been saying about out of state trucks are still allowed in California. It' Is true I called carb Yesterday at 1 -866 -634 -3753. And yes to confirm what all you all have been saying Is True. Our converted trucks that are license As Is R v's Out of state are welcome in California. We are exempt from their new law. Thanks guys for your help
Good post! But somebody else will bring the question up again in less than 24 hours! Common sense should have answered the question, but that isn't so common anymore!
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5 hours ago, runaway parents said:
So the bottom line is can I or can't I take my truck into California ? Yes or no ? it's a 2008 780 Volvo .That is licensed as A RV in Washington State. Who would a person call in California That would confirm all Of this? CHP DMV DOL DNR USFS IRS NCIS ?I'm so 😕
For, oh I don't know, the thousandth time maybe? YES! If you are illegally licensed in your domicile state, you can travel anywhere in America legally! What a CONCEPT huh? NOW.....even though our trucks may look like COMMERCIAL vehicles, they are NOT! Commercial Motor Vehicle (CMV) DOT rules DO NOT APPLY. NOW, if you want your big ol' truck to be a CMV, you are free to do that, but as long as you are licensed as a RECREATIONAL VEHICLE (RV) you are exempt from the CMV rules and regulations. This isn't hard to understand folks!!!! GO RVing, be HAPPY! Don't worry!
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On 1/4/2023 at 3:33 PM, sandsys said:
Why would you think that?
Linda
I would think even the crazy natives out there wouldn't stand for that! Can you imagine how many vehicles that will be?
On 1/6/2023 at 6:14 PM, ddm502001 said:This just out, and to this, Let the Lawsuits Begin. California is banning any and EVERY pre 2010 truck from their state. Guess it is time to cease purchasing anything from CA make every attempt to stop dealing ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM With CA.
California bans 230,000 trucks -- what's next? | Overdrive (overdriveonline.com)
Fines will be levied for use of a Pre 2010 machine in the state that emits at a level THEY determine a hazard to someone, anyone. And Does NOT matter if Not Registered in CA, Is REQUIRED the machines are established as set up under CA Regs.
"every truck"...........so RVs are okay. Define a truck.
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There are 10s of thousands of older diesels in RVs and other NON-commercial vehicles in California. They can't ban them all. But, they can, and apparently are, going to do just that in the commercial industry. We shall see.
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11 hours ago, Second Chance said:
16 states have special requirements depending on the configuration (usually GVWR) of your rig. They don't all call the license the same thing. You can check it out here:
Rob
I'm not saying the link you provided is wrong, but FWIW, we used to go through the AAA handbook that listed each states driving laws and laugh at some of the mistakes (31 years Arkansas State Police and retired now)......and there were always mistakes. I said that just to make the point that individual State Statutes, properly interpreted, are the only thing folks should go by. And in Arkansas, it was not uncommon for the State Revenue Department to promulgate rule changes that bypassed, negated or changed the State Statutes when it came to licensing........and often times, those of us in the enforcement business were not always aware of those changes. Not a good thing, but it happens.
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On 12/2/2022 at 9:23 AM, Darryl&Rita said:
Start here:RoadRelay manual
Mine is not the one in the link. I guess it is an older model. I've been thru all the menus and haven't seen anything about codes in it. It's function are pretty basic.
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Ordered stainless steel grill surround and fender guards! Now to get the stainless steel bumper polished out.
Edit: Forgot, and a stainless steel grill.
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TA's are back to some pretty good discounts now.
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7 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:
If you have a working Road Relay, you're gold. It will also pull any fault codes for you. They're usually paperweight candidates, and an aftermarket reader like ScanGauge is needed. We use a "D" model on one of the farm trucks, to keep track of the blinky CEL.
I'll have to look at it closer and figure out how to use it. I just use the trip odometer and the fuel average fuel mileage function now. Occasionally check the oil temp and pressure, but the truck as a oil pressure gauge. I'll probably just put some aftermarket volt meter on it. There is no space in the cluster to put it. I figured the LCD panel showed the battery volts. Can't imagine the truck not having someplace to monitor the volts when it was new.
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8 hours ago, Jaydrvr said:
Sounds good. Here is a link to the ScanGauge KR, if you decide to use it. They ScanGauge will give you fault codes, which I think is already worth the price of admission. Jay
Thanks for the link!
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49 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:
A ScanGauge KR will effectively give you much of the information normally found in the driver's information display. There are also tablet/software solutions, but the name escapes me at the moment. Jay
Since my gauges all work, I'm thinking of just adding the volt gauge, which it lacks, and maybe by a scan tool that will read any codes should I need to. This truck also has the Road Relay which works. Basically just a trip/leg meter, but does give your oil pressure and temp.
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36 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:
I would also check the wiring harness behind the display. The contacts can get weak and sloppy with time. Can you swap it with a known good one to check the harness? Jay
I do not have a good to check with. They re-soldered all the pins when I had the dash re-done. They said most of the time that was the issue but not always. They told me the LCD panel was apparently dead.
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5 hours ago, Mark and Dale Bruss said:
When mine was not working I found it was burned out light bulbs that were not easy to find and replace.
The place I sent it off to replaced light bulbs and did some re-soldering. The back light illuminates, but the panel is dead.
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The LCD readout does not work. I've had the rest of the dash re-soldered and everything works, but this didn't come to life. Finding a new one to replace it has proved impossible. I don't want to spring for a whole new dash board. This hasn't worked since I've had the truck so I haven't missed it. But, I would like to have/know what information I could learn from it. Does anybody know where to find a used one maybe, or some other work around? Maybe a tablet set up? This truck has a Cummins M11. It has a pretty complete set of gauges......except for a volt gauge. I'm guessing if the truck throws a code, this is where it would show up. I'm open to any ideas.
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On 11/24/2022 at 7:42 PM, docj said:
I don't think either group here is going to convince members of the other group to change their enrollment. It boils down to how much risk avoidance one wishes to accept. After last year when we made an advantageous change of Medicare Plan F Supplement, I am quite content to pay the premiums for that plan knowing that I won't have ANY other medical costs other than prescription drugs and eyeglasses. I bought my own hearing aids this year but I'm confident that what I purchased wouldn't have been allowable under most Advantage plans. The same is true of our eyeglasses, you're not going to find an Advantage plan that is going to fully cover progressive bifocals with high index Transitions photochromic lenses.
The bottom line is that you can't get something for nothing. The managed care insurance industry lobbied Congress to create what we now call Plan C Medicare. But we all know that insurance companies aren't altruistic enterprises. They are in the business to make a profit, so don't think they really have your best interests at heart. It's all about the bottom line iMHO.
You are correct. I have researched and know I’ve got a Cadillac plan. I will stick with my Medicare and Health Advantage supplement.
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I went with TireTraker. They offered a life time warranty back when I purchased, about three years ago. I’ve been happy with it.
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On 11/20/2022 at 9:59 PM, Dutch_12078 said:
Don't supplements just pay the amount that Medicare doesn't cover (20%?) that otherwise would be paid by you? Medicare Advantage plans pay the providers what ever amounts are included in the contracts the providers agreed to. Do supplements include any of the additional coverage that Medicare doesn't cover, like the annual physicals, eye care, hearing testing, dental coverage, and fitness programs that many Advantage plans include? I'm not arguing, just trying to understand why providers would prefer Medicare's fixed rates versus the negotiable rates that Advantage plans pay. With Medicare and a supplement, it seems they get paid the same with or without the supplement. What am I missing?
With my supplement, I don't have any copays or deductibles. I never pay anything as long as it is medicare approved. I forget the reasons she gave for not getting advantage. It had to do with them not paying or covering what medicare and a good supplement will. I've been told by providers I have the best supplement you can get and not to ever switch it. My supplement is from my former employer and they are always searching and comparing to give us the best insurance they can.
That feeling you get
in HDT
Posted
Those $5000+ repairs while on the road are sure fun! All you can do is smile and say, fix it and fix it right please!