mike5511

Looking good! 

How your truck is licensed will dictate the need for CDL or not. RVs are exempt from weight requirements as far as the type of license required.  However the state you are licensed in calls it, that is what you have to do. Texas does require an air brake endorsement but you can add that to a regular DL. As far as the DOT is concerned, if you are not commercial and licensed as such, you don't need a CDL. I've still got my Class A CDL, but I'm not required to have it in Arkansas, therefore due to the reciprocal agreement, I don't need it any state. All I had to do was tell the Revenue Dept (DMV) the truck was for RV use only. The tag is the same as a car or pickup, or manufactured RV, about $38 a year. My title says "pickup". The clerk was hesitant to call it an RV because it is just a semi with a bed, no commercial 5th wheel. She said it doesn't really matter what we called it since the tag is the same and all they were interested in was the money. Since I was using it like a pickup, that is what she decided to call it. It's been renewed several times since the title was changed, no problems so far.

I considered a day cab when I started down the HDT road as well. I drove a truck for 30 years and had a little time in a day cab. But, I forgot until I went test drove a nice little single axle Pete day cab that I thought was the one. Didn't take but a few miles to remember and decide, nope, this ain't it!  Glad I didn't buy one. The reasons already mentioned are all valid; too many starts and stops, sound dampening, etc, not to mention, depending where you try and license it, it may not qualify for a non-commercial/RV license and insurance. But another VERY important reason is room! You sit straight up and two people and a small purse is about all you can fit in the cab! If you just make short trips to the lake or whatever fine, but if you are going to travel in one, comfort is important. No way I would buy a day cab. As somebody said above, buy one and you will soon regret it! FWIW.

I look forward to every new post!

A friend just put a BD5 in his GMC. I have the TLSD on my Volvo, even on a HDT, you can tell when you forget to put air in it when you hit a bridge abutment or bump. I kept telling him he needed one. He has towed trailers for years, use to be a dealer, and never used one. He's a believer now! I wouldn't have anything else. The one for sale above is a bargain!

If you're coming across I-44, $3.09 at the T/As either side of Springfield, MO. (Strattford/Mt.Vernon)...with TSD discount.

16 hours ago, Sparky242 said:

I have a 2000 610 the air horn is inside the right frame rail just behind the radiator mount. I have never looked for the city horn, but I will look tomorrow.

My 98 is the same. Got it fixed just yesterday as a matter of fact. I found my city horn once......but I don't remember where it is located cause I'm old and I've slept since then!😄

On 6/28/2023 at 4:15 PM, Darryl&Rita said:

Given the air consumption of true train horns, there's no way the tubing and valve size on the company brake handle will do more than an anemic "wheeze..." To begin with, train horns run around 150 psi tanks and compressors, some higher. Then all the tubing and connectors are 1/2", minimum. Size matters.

This is just one of those triple "train horns" they sell in all the chrome shops. It still is rated best at 125 -145 psi, which my truck  won't do. But, I've changed the plan now. Half inch line direct to the horn through a ball valve. We shall see how it does.

3 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

That should fix it! 🙂

18 hours ago, NeverEasy said:

No one else has jumped in here to assist so I thought I will try.  I am not a tractor/trailer brake expert.  What I think you are looking at is #16 "Manifold Tractor Protection Valve #16 (MPTV)"   On the attached diagram, that is the valve at the very top.  The Johnson Bar (hand brake # 15) provides braking to the trailer only.  On this diagram, there is a gray line connecting the hand brake to the MPTV.  If you can read the text to the left, it says in part, "All colors
are as they appear on the tubing in the vehicle." Therefore, the gray line on the bottom of your attached picture is likely the output of the hand brake to the MPTV.  

Things I would be concerned about:

1. Assuming you are going to bypass the horns solenoid and direct connect to the horns input,  The pressure provided at the output of the hand brake is proportional to the amount of pull.  You may not get full tank pressure there even at full pull on the hand brake.

2. Since you are attempting to use the hand brake to sound your horns, I assume you are using a standard automotive brake controller not tied into your tractor air system.  Most of us tie our brake controller (air over electric or electric/hydraulic) via a connection that uses the foot pedal for truck/trailer braking or the hand brake for trailer braking only.  Would not want to use your modification.

 

Thanks for the information. If you could post a link to that diagram, I sure would appreciate it. It's hard to read. I had found similar diagrams, but not that one, and it looks like it is correct for my truck. 

You are correct. The trailer has electric brakes and I use the DirecLink controller. No glad hands. What you say makes sense about pressure. The old horn never had enough pressure. The air was supplied by extending the stock horn line. The line was small as well as long. When the horn did blow good (at full air pressure) there was a couple seconds of delay. I haven't done anything yet, except verify tonight that the gray air line is the line from the hand brake lever. Your advice has me re-thinking how I will do this. I'm now thinking come right off one of the air tanks, and use the solenoid.  It would be a short run since they are on the driver's side and the horn is mounted on the front of the bed, on the same side. Now to figure out which tank and how to best tap into it. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

So planning on putting air to the train horn with the Johnson bar....... Can anybody identify witch of these lines goes to the Johnson bar? 98 Volvo 610. The top red one has an air coupler on it in place of the glad hand attachment. I push in the red knob to put air to it. I couldn't see a brand name on the valve.

Too close for comfort IMHO. THAT wason level ground. Ideal conditions. The real world isn’t always ideal. 

2 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

You can use a urethane automotive paint but to make sure it stays on, use an adhesion promoter first. After that, try a base coat of black followed by a catalyzed, semi gloss top coat.

The top coat can be bought in a can and has a "button" on the bottom that is pushed in to release the hardener into the paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aerospraytm-high-gloss-matte-clear.html

If you take your time and follow the instructions, you shouldn't have any more problems from your plastic trim.

The Eastwood paint is supposed to be top of the line. Next would be SEM, according to my friend that owns a body shop. 

On 6/7/2023 at 6:59 AM, Darryl&Rita said:

What's sold as "Train Horn" kits for the bro-dozer crowd runs at 150+ psi. The truck air system doesn't. More pressure makes a difference. Volume can help to compensate, but won't cure everything. Use the biggest hoses and fittings you can get in there. Use the next size bigger wire than the chart says.

Thanks for the reply. I reached out to the manufacturer and got a reply and it confirmed what I’d thought. I am replacing an old “train horn” that never did work like it should. Hopefully will get this new install completed correctly. This is not a true train horn. Just a triple air horn with a nice sound. A lot better than the the sick goose sound of the factory Volvo horn!

Swapped out the old train horn today for a new one. It’s just one of those three horn units from United Pacific. The old one never did work real good. Wondering what size air line it’s supposed to have?  Also wonder how many amps it takes to trigger the solenoid to open the air valve? It’s a long run and looks like 16guage at the most. The problem with the old horn may have been in the horn button on the steering wheel itself. Still need to look into that. The horn is on the front of the bed behind the sleeper. Probably a 20’ run for the air line at least. I’m wondering if I need a small ping tank and a relay for the 12 volt. I’ll figure it out, but open to advice and suggestions. 

Using the heat treatment method with some kind of UV protectant afterwards would probably be the best way to go about. I don’t know if  it would last much longer than Back to Black though. I intend to try it, but haven’t yet 

Bio is the best lubricant out there. But you need to run it out and not let sit long. And if your fuel system is dirty, it will clean it out….and stop up your fuel filters. Many of the truck stops going west from Missouri use the bio blend. You never know how much though. The little sticker only has to say 5-20%. I always ask the percentages but have to just trust them for the answer. I’ve read that all diesel now has a little in it for lubricity reasons, especially for the older motors. Butbthey don’t have to post it unless it is 5% or higher. 

This is all way out of my wheel house, but I'd love to be the "tool fetcher" on this job and watch it all come together. The education would be priceless!

I drove a truck for 30 years and dropped one, but it had a light load on it so no harm done.......except it was about a 100 degrees and by the time I got it cranked back up I was hot and completely soaked!  But, I never forgot to do the tug test after that! I did mess up with my 5ver once. I did the tug test without locking the jaws and it slid out of the plate. I've got a bent air line cover on my TrailerSaver to remind me, but no harm other that that. We live, we learn.....we hope!

23 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

First fit on the truck, the frame has some "challenges".

Work in progress ideas for the rear end.

Such as?

As I said on another page, hope there is never a “Thunder Struck II”!!!

Laser cutter

Covering up rock chips and adding a little bling. Working on the bumper now and debating about the fuel filter. The plastic piece under the bumper is apparently no longer available. I can use it, but I need to paint it. Whatever they painted it with ain't wanting to some off. I was thinking of re-painting it black so the rock chips wouldn't be so obvious. Leaving it off is not an option. It reveals too much of the cooling parts and doesn't look good.

Was going to remove this silver paint on that bottom aero lip and repaint with matte black. It won't come off! I don't know if somebody painted it or it came that way. Even Zip Strip wouldn't faze it. If I could buy some paint as tough as this stuff, I just go back with the silver. Anybody re-done one or have any ideas?

7 hours ago, dbrandon said:

We just purchased a used Herrin Volvo 780 truck and it came with a free 453 Smart car!

That said I had to learn just how unique this car is when it came time to get spare keys.

1) Found ebay action that would cut a key from a picture of my key. This worked perfectly, new keys are perfect. Seller also gave us the smart logo for the backside of the remote!

2) Purchase NEW remotes from ebay/amazon. Take the electronic board and battery and put it in the remote you got in step 1.

3) Program the remotes to the car. < No locksmith in my area would touch the car since they consider it a Mercedes. 

 

That said, went out and purchased a key programmer for my car, and I am now offering my free key programming services to anyone. I live in the East Texas area. Programming takes 20min or so.    Shoot me an message here!

Welcome! And you may end up regretting that offer!😄