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spindrift

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Posts posted by spindrift

  1. On 11/25/2023 at 6:42 PM, SuiteSuccess said:

    Made a call to dealer. They can get it but 3 weeks unless I pay overnight freight, hence why I wanted part # to check couple other places. Local dealer doesn’t like to give out part numbers. (BTW you’re still my bud.  Just kidding wit ya).

    I can validate your concern.  That guy needs to be watched like a hawk on a diet.

  2. 12 minutes ago, palmeris said:

    Thank you . So untaxed is another pump handle at driver side fuel island. ️ 

    Not exactly.  The pump requires you to specify reefer or tractor fuel when selecting fuel.  The reefer fuel taxes are refunded to the company/owner operator so it's basically untaxed.  However, the fuel comes out of the same hose/tank and is not dyed.  The same is true for any fuel used for your APU.

  3. 2 hours ago, palmeris said:

    So the 2nd pump on passenger side is the refer pump correct,  is it only dyed fuel and cannot be used in trucks 2nd tank legally?

    No, the fuel tank on a reefer trailer is on the trailer itself.  The right side, tractor tank is simply an additional tank that normally feeds the primary (left side) fuel tank.

  4. 37 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

    Dyed fuel may not be worth the effort.  Right now, I can buy taxed fuel at Costco for nearly a dollar less than I can buy dyed fuel locally.  And then there's the convenience factor.  How much is it worth to go out of the way to save pennies on red fuel?

    Besides spending big bucks on a coach and the latest and greatest systems, while trying to pinch pennies on fuel doesn't make sense.

    Tom, I'd go with the more expensive diesel fired furnace just because you'll have fuel.  It's likely more efficient to run a furnace than to run a genny to make electric to make heat.  All that heat the genny makes is wasted.

    Diesel heat as a standalone; replacing both propane AND the CheapHeat system?  In the expense column, it may be a wash.

  5. 5 minutes ago, Danfreda1 said:

    Carl I wish our cheap heat worked as good as yours and David’s. It’s been worked on more than once and doesn’t put out half the heat. I would not spend the money on the cheap heat if I were to buy another trailer. 
    I might have it installed by a qualified cheat heat installer and may even have this on looked at by one. It’s a shame to burn through a 40 lb tank of propane every 3-4 days. 

    I don't get it.  That system is fairly idiot proof.  On the other hand...

  6. Yessir, that's the one, with a somewhat minor difference.  You can purchase a CheapHeat system as an adjunct to, or as a complete replacement for, a propane furnace.  I'm thinking if the mini-split is as good as advertised, and we're still in design, why not totally replace the propane with electric only CheapHeat

    I should add that eventually,  we'll be fulltimers in this RV.

     

  7. While not a subject specific to HDTs, I do respect the collective wisdom here so I pose the following idea.  My wife and I are in the process of designing an RV where the primary heating and cooling will be accomplished through the use of a mini-split system.  The LG system requires 240V service.  The RV will have an onboard diesel generator capable of supplying 240V in a pinch.  I've had conversations with folks who report efficient heating using only the heat pump in the mini-split, even when temps dip into the high teens.
     
    My ultimate goal is to minimize the use of propane in the RV and increase overall heating efficiency and flexibility.  My thought is to supplement the heat pump with a stand-alone CheapHeat system. Since this system doesn't require any gas hook-up, it can be installed virtually anywhere in the RV where there is available space, thereby providing maximum flexibility for the floor plan.  It's certainly much quieter than a propane furnace as well.  I have thought about diesel heat (Espar) since the RV will have a diesel tank but I'm no longer pursuing that idea because of cost (multiple heaters required for the length of the RV)
     
    Any discussion of propane vs. electricity seems to always come down to a cost comparison.  Unless there's a HUGE reason to incorporate cost analysis, I'm going to let that issue slide for the moment.  Additionally, I don't envision that we will be parked in any one spot long enough to be concerned about a metered, 50A service.  We will have some solar. 
     
    So there it is.  How much would I gain by having propane?
     
  8. These units don't seem to be used in larger fifth wheels.  Seems to me that they would be a good choice if you already have a fuel tank.  In addition, maybe a smaller footprint?  Certainly less moisture in the living space and a more efficient fuel type as well. 

  9. 38 minutes ago, sandsys said:

    I had one in my last van. It would only run ten hours at a time. If I wanted it to run longer, I had to turn it off then back on. But it did a good job for my space while just sipping fuel.

    Linda

    I understand sizing the unit for your area is critical.  Better to size smaller and run on high to keep the heater running properly.

  10. For you folks who performed all of the maintenence on your truck and RV before going full-time, have you been able to be that same do-it-yourselfer while full-time?

    Yesterday, I was doing the critical suspension and driveline greasing that's called for on my Ram 5500.  I'm the only one that has ever done it because I then know it has been done properly.  As you know, this kind of work takes certain tools.  Now that we're planning to go full-time, I ask myself how it's going to get done.

  11. If you don't know what's in the coolant system, your best bet is to drain and fill with new coolant.  However, if it's red it's a darn good bet that it's extended life and compliant.  Regardless, this is what you want...

    Fleetguard@ CC36077 ES

    Extended Life

     

  12. 12 hours ago, Deezl Smoke said:

     I don't want to drive my nice 2021 rig in de-icer during the winter. So I am considering a second rig just for winter running. A much simpler machine, very little water with heated tanks, for short durations, mainly to my property in south central Oregon.

     I found a 2013 truck that has been deleted, but is a very well kept truck with non smoker owner/driver.

    1: Deletes done wrong are as much expensive as broken emissions.

    2: what have any of your heard or learned about rv emission testing or requirements going forward, as in nation wide etc.?

    Any other thoughts or opinions?

    I would also add that if you don't have the experience of troubleshooting and actually wrenching on an ISX, or any deleted engine for that matter, IMHO it's best to move on.  If you run into mechanical problems, I'm not aware of any Mother Cummins shop that will touch it with a ten foot pole.  Even independent shops are beginning to shy away from this work if only because of the very remote possibility that the shop will get dragged into a beef with either the EPA, or a state's environmental protection agency, or both.

    And don't even think about going  to the Rawze website for info on your deleted ISX.  You'll be eaten alive

  13. 1 hour ago, justRich said:

    Washington State did not require emissions testing on my truck when I lived there.
    Maricopa County in Arizona does require emissions testing on the same truck.  They first do a visual inspection - probably looking for the simple changes made by a delete.

    Personally, I would not touch that or any truck with a delete.  And I have a very harsh opinion of what should be done about deleted trucks (and their owners).

     

    Glad to know 'ya.  <_<

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