mr. cob

Howdy Mike, Just about anything is possible, it's a matter of time and skill if you do it yourself or money if you hire the job out. Before you commit to such a project it might be wise to see if a suitable sleeper is available, it's cost and the cost of having the work done. Sometimes on a project such as this the initial cost of the truck might be well out weighted buy the cost of the completed project and it's real world value down the road. That said, the KW W900 is a classic truck and for that alone I vote HELL YEAH. Dave

Howdy All, May everyone, everywhere have a great Thanks Giving, and enjoy time with family and friends. Dave

Howdy Chuck, I think I'll be installing new cab air bags soon, they are pretty crusty looking and of course the bolts are rusty. Dave

Howdy All, SUCCESS, I now have fully functional windshield wipers in the Pete. I had to get this done as I need to take the truck in and get some air leaks fixed but I needed windshield wipers to safely drive the truck with the pouring down rain. I looked on ebay and found the wiper motor for just over 200 dollars, looked at some of the big truck parts houses they were priced around 225 dollars, the part sold at the local Peterbilt store was $339.86 a pretty good sized difference in price. Using the numbers on the old wiper motor I determined that it was a generic part probably bought from ebay or some other store NOT a Peterbilt part. So I took the old wiper motor down to the Peterbilt store and compared the old part to the new part. BIG difference, the motor on the Peterbilt part is longer, larger in diameter, the gear box is larger in all respects and the wiring is sealed to keep the nasty stuff out. In this photo the old motor is on top, the new Peterbilt motor is below it, you can see the difference in quality. This has proven to be the case with every part I have replaced on my truck, the Peterbilt parts cost more but the difference is quality in my mind makes up for the price. I am now, a HAPPY CAMPER. Dave

Howdy All, Good news, and bad news. Good news is that there is no problem getting the wipers to clock correctly as the operating arm driven by the motor just goes in a circle so no matter how you place it on the motor shaft the wipers work as they should. Bad news is that after removing the wiper motor I did a test using a 12 volt battery and some probes, nothing happened. So I took my dead blow hammer and gave that sucker a good SMACK, something must have broke loose, I could get the wiper motor to work, on-off, variable speed, lo and hi speed. However every now and then it would lock up and stop turning. As it was running at every revolution of the wiper arm drive shaft there was a noticeable CLICK and a bit of a jerk in the rotation of the drive shaft. I did a really good cleanup job on the wiper motor thinking I would dissemble take the cover off of the transmission and see if there was any damage to the gear train that would cause this click and stutter. No can do, the cover was attached with one time use rivets of some sort. So I drove to the Peterbilt, store sat down on the stool in front of the parts desk and handed over my credit card to purchase this platinum plated part ( well it should have been for the cost ) BUT I knew when I bought the Pete, that like a Cadillac, parts would be expensive. That said the parts I have bought at the Peterbilt store have all been of good quality, have fit and have worked well. I don't mind spending the money if I get quality parts or service in return. Just got back home with the part, it's absolutely pouring down rain, it's usually raining this time of year where I live but not like this, water running in the streets, puddles everywhere, with any kind of luck it will just be raining tomorrow and I can get this installed and have the wipers working again. Dave

Howdy Darryl, The motor is out, bad part is when they stopped working the wiper was NOT at the end of it's stroke. I am "assuming" the new wiper motor will come positioned at the end of the stroke but I don't know that. Getting everything properly timed-aligned is what I am most concerned about. Unbolting the motor from the outside of the truck wasn't to bad, removing the main dash panel to gain access to the nut that holds the wiper operating arm to the motor was difficult as you have to work on it without disturbing all the wires and lines that go to the 8 gages, 2 air conditioning vents and systems monitoring panel. Every time I have removed that dash panel, I have to redo it at least twice to make sure I didn't dislodge one of the 14 light bulbs that light it up. Dave

Howdy All, Working on replacing the windshield wiper motor on the Pete, with luck I'll have it done tomorrow. Dave

Howdy All, After extensive research I have decided to go with the Road Master, Slipper Spring and Shocks system. Going to have it installed at their Vancouver WA location on December 14th. Just making this decision and being able to get it done on our way south has taken a huge load off my shoulders and mind, I am feeling a whole lot better. Again thanks for all the advise and suggestions. Lawrence, I am glad you found your problem before it happened on the road, your kinda in the same position I am now, I could ignore it but it's cheaper to deal with it now rather then have a major break down in the middle of nowhere. Marcel, please be aware there where we live is what is known in this area as a weather anomaly or micro climate. We did NOT know this at the time we bought our home 30 years ago. If a person travels 15 miles north, south or west from our home the average precipitation is 36 inches a year. If one travel east it gets up to 140 30 miles as the crow flies from our home, where we live the average per year is 89 inches of RAIN and sometimes a bit of snow. So don't take my whining about where "we live" to be a general condemnation of living in the Nor-Wet, but I do advise you to stay away from Granite Falls, and other ares like it. Dave

Howdy All, Just to close this thread out, THANKS to everyone who has participated in it I appreciate your input and advice. My stock suspension is junk, it's worn out and needs to be replaced, I have decided to go with Road Master, slipper springs and shocks, from calls I have made to people who actually have this system and the research I have done I feel comfortable doing this and the price isn't extreme. I have an appointment made to have it installed December 14th. Dave

Howdy All, I would like to offer a sincere apology to all who have replied to and read this thread. It's been over a month since I have seen the sun, it's raining nearly every day, it's cold, I want to be south in the worst way but trailer problems have prevented our leaving and so I have turned into a whiny, sniveler, impossible to live with @&@^%$!(*&#5 and I fear it has poisoned my posts. After literally days of research, both online, by phone and in person, I have made the decision to go with Road Master, Slipper Springs and Shocks suspension system, installed at their facility in Vancouver WA. However, because of supply difficultly this won't happen until sometime in December. After the suspension work is done we will buy new tires in Oregon, then continue to travel south. The gloom and constant rain of the Nor-Wet, has become harder and harder for me to survive, the last three years having the opportunity to escape from this frog pond has been wonderful. Our plans were to escape earlier this year but then the trailer troubles were noticed and forestalled our departure. So I ask your indulgence whilst reading my drivel especially when posted from mid September onward if I am still trapped in the Peoples Republik of Washington. Dave

Howdy All, Thanks for your replies, I appreciate them. Dave

Howdy All, I am seriously contemplating doing the disk brake up grade to my trailer. I am seriously considering this kit, has anyone used a kit from etrailer.com and in particular this brand? Do you have any recommendations for other companies to deal with or brand of product? https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Hydrastar/HSE7K-TR1.html Thanks for any advice you can offer. Dave

Howdy noteven, sorry I have forgotten your real name. I have written the MORryde system off not because its not a good system but the price for intended time of use is just to much. I am now looking at this suspension system built by Road Master, the folks who now sell the Comfort Ride hitch. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Leaf-Spring-Suspension/Roadmaster/RM-2460-2570-3.html Half the price and includes shocks and MUCH better then the junk it came from the factory with. Dave

Howdy Darryl, I really don't know how to put this but it's not the money in and of itself; if something came up that needed to be taken care of such as the CAT needing an in-frame I could cover that easily without changing our eating habits. It's the insane parts pricing and over 52 hours of labor they want to charge for. As gimped up as I am if I had a flat, hard surface to work on and a 10 dollar Harbor Freight laser to insure the alignment "I" could do this job in less then 52 hours with equipment I have by myself. If "I" were 20 years younger, I would have it done, if "I" had a very nice trailer "I" would have it done; as it is "I" can buy more tires then "I" will wear out for 16K in the time "I" will probably use the trailer. "Newt and now Willy" have a full time job just keeping me sociably acceptable enough to evade incarceration, no way they are going to work as beggars. Being a "Cob" is sometimes an easy cross to bear when faced with such situations. 😉 Dave

Howdy All, I just now received an email from the shop in Grants Pass Oregon, that is an authorized MORryde installation center to have the IS and disk brakes installed on my trailer. $16,909.31 cents and that does NOT include final alignment. The estimate from the MORryde factory if it were to be installed at the factory in Indiana, was $12,367.41 Needless to say MORryde parts are not going to be installed on my trailer. Dave

Howdy tyates007, I have been spending so much time researching suspension up grades I feel like its a job. I ran across the Comfort Ride slipper spring setup yesterday. Watching the videos to "me" the Comfort Ride looks like it controls the springs better then the MORryde, that and everything is mounted much higher thus providing LESS side thrust on the mounts when making sharp turns. I think one of the things that has raised hell with my suspension is that in order to leave from home I have to drive about a quarter of a mile to a culdesac, yes I know its sqeled wrong, in which I have to place the steering of the truck full lock and watch the axles of the trailer try to come out from under the trailer whilst making the turnaround. When I park at home I have to drive past my driveway and then back into what little parking space I have, then to leave go through the tight turnaround so I can get out of my neighborhood. This would even stress the ID MORryde suspension. So know I am going to get my trailer inspected at a place called "Torklift" they setup my Dodge back before I became an HDT'er, they do great work and I have talked to them about building NEW fixed end spring hangers made of thicker material with gussets off of the frame. This gettin old and being so darn gimped up is for the birds I hate having to pay others to do what I used to be able to do myself. Dave

Howdy DMK, Thanks for your post, it makes a LOT OF SENSE. I won't be up grading to a different trailer because of our ages, don't know how much longer my gimped up ole arse will be up to this type of activity. The more I think about it its darn hard to justify the cost in relationship to how long I plan to use the truck and trailer, I would never recover even a quarter of the cost when it comes time to sell. So I'll do what needs to be done to make it safe to tow and use. Dave

Howdy Glenn, I am thinking it's too much money for the foreseeable time I have left to enjoy this type of activity. Still I can't leave my trailer in the shape it's in and I can't wait years or months to have it done. Going to be checking with a local shop "Torklift" who makes a lot of great products and installs those of other reputable companies. Back in my truck camper days they set my 3500 Dodge up for hauling the HUGE camper that I had at the time to also tow my tandem axle 16 foot long enclosed trailer. Dave

Howdy All, Thanks to everyone who has replies to my questions I really appreciate the comments and advice. I had contacted MORryde by email last Saturday asking about cost and where this could be done. I had watched a video put up by some full time folks who had this done just a year ago, on their web page they listed the cost to have the triple 7K axle IS system and disk brakes as $8,500.00 and change. This morning I got an email from MORryde the cost for this same package now is $11,600.00 in Indiana at their shop is taking appointments in 2023. There is a shop in Grants Pass OR, that is authorized by MORryde to do this work I am waiting to hear back from them as to cost which according to MORryde in Indiana will be HIGHER and when it could be done. So now I have to decide is it worth 12K plus to up grade the trailer which I hope to be able to use for another 3-5 years before selling both truck and trailer or just do the minimum to make this trailer safe to use and tow. If I were younger, it's a no brainier I'd just spend the money but at 73.7 I also have to consider do I really want to spend that much money on an upgrade that I will get next to nothing back from when it comes time to sell. 8K was reasonable, present cost of 12K is making this a difficult decision. Dave

Howdy All, rpsinc, I'll take your advice and post this in the 5th wheel forum as well as here. Thanks for your replies, I really do appreciate your posts. I forgot to mention that shortly after buying the trailer new in August of 2014, I did have installed 17.5 wheels and commercial grade tires that have served me well. Dave

Howdy All, I know many of you folks have this setup from the factory and I am sure some have had the work done to their older trailer so I figured I could get some honest answers asking about these products on this forum. I don't have an expensive trailer but it serves me well for my use, I have had Chad, install a very nice solar system, installed new Lithium batteries and unless something happens to it I do not plan to replace the trailer with another one. I have towed my trailer in the last 7 years at least 75-80,000 miles. I have never liked the way the stock brakes work, I have replaced the stock spring shackles with heavy duty ones, have replaced the stock spring bushings TWICE with grease-able bushing and wet bolts, have had to have the stock rear axle spring mounts re-welded to the frame as they have broken during use. The last time I had to have a spring mount welded they must have not gotten it aligned properly as the tire on the rear axle where the mount was welded is worn quite badly and will need to be replaced, this wear has come on suddenly so I am assuming something else has gone bad and needs to be addressed. So rather then repair, again, a suspension-braking system that is marginal at best as I plan to keep this trailer till my traveling days are done should I just replace this junk with a quality system and be done with it? I could repair what I have for $1,000-1,500 dollars OR replace it for $7-8,000 dollars and not have to worry about the brakes not working or the springs, shackles and bushings going bad for the rest of my traveling years. So those who have the MORryde system what are your opinions of it, if you made the change would you do it again, bottom line is it worth the $$$$$$$$$ Thanks for any information you can share. Dave

Howdy All, A bit off topic but I know many of you folks have this setup from the factory and I am sure some have had the work done to their older trailer so I figured I could get some honest answers asking about these products on this forum. I don't have an expensive trailer but it serves me well for my use, I have had Chad, install a very nice solar system, installed new Lithium batteries and unless something happens to it I do not plan to replace the trailer with another one. I have towed my trailer in the last 7 years at least 75-80,000 miles. I have never liked the way the stock brakes work, I have replaced the stock spring shackles with heavy duty ones, have replaced the stock spring bushings TWICE with grease-able bushing and wet bolts, have had to have the stock rear axle spring mounts re-welded to the frame as they have broken during use. The last time I had to have a spring mount welded they must have not gotten it aligned properly as the tire on the rear axle where the mount was welded is worn quite badly and will need to be replaced, this wear has come on suddenly so I am assuming something else has gone bad and needs to be addressed. So rather then repair, again, a suspension-braking system that is marginal at best as I plan to keep this trailer till my traveling days are done should I just replace this junk with a quality system and be done with it? I could repair what I have for $1,000-1,500 dollars OR replace it for $7-8,000 dollars and not have to worry about the brakes not working or the springs, shackles and bushings going bad for the rest of my traveling years. So those who have the MORryde system what are your opinions of it, if you made the change would you do it again, bottom line is it worth the $$$$$$$$$ Thanks for any information you can share. Dave

Howdy Robert, Well done Sir, well done indeed. Safe travels to you, enjoy the fruits of your labor. Dave

Howdy Mike, Welcome. I would strongly suggest attending one of the rallies, sometimes there are finished rigs for sale sometimes not but the main reason to go is to look at all the many different ways others have gone about doing what your thinking about doing. Saving up to be able to JUMP on a deal when it comes down the road is a very wise thing to do. Unless you do all or most of the conversion yourself it's often times cheaper to buy a turn key setup if you find one that fulfills your needs. THINK long and hard about what YOU want from the truck and trailer, THINK about if you want to carry something behind the sleeper, Smart Car, Jeep, etc. when buying a toy hauler in my opinion you can't have too large of a garage but you sure can have too little and regret it later when the new toy doesn't fit in the old trailer. As with everything things change new folks come into this lifestyle older folks such as myself will in time hand the keys to someone else, that's when you can usually pick up the best deals, buy a well thought out, proven setup for a reasonable price ready to fill with fuel and go down the road. The only disadvantage I can see with your plan, buying-building now but planing to use the setup years down the road, is that we never know what curve life is going to throw at us. My advise, BUY, BUILD, USE as soon and as much as you can while your younger, there's always time to get old andretire. Dave

Howdy Pete, I agree, problem is I am not much of a campground type of person and when I am on my way to a destination I only need a place to stay for a few hours. That and where I go there often times aren't any campgrounds in the immediate area and I can't see adding more travel time and distance to the trip to pay 35-50 dollars just for a place to park for a few hours to get some sleep. The bums have ruined Walmart over night parking and staying at remote rest areas is getting to the point where it's more dangerous then spending the night in a truck stop. As long as I am on a rant, might as well add, "Get off my lawn" in my most sincere "Cob" ( Crabby old bastard ) voice. Oh, and don't forget the "Mr." 😄 Dave