slackercruster
-
Posts
141 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by slackercruster
-
-
I don't know Kirk. I will have to look to see the maker. It is on a Truck Camper.
The local RV service stinks. He is very fussy what work he undertakes. I think the dealer is pissed at the world. His lot has 5 - 6 travel trailers and that is it. He used to have the whole lot full before the virus hit. He stopped selling Class C and A about 12 years ago and just sells trailers / 5th Wheels. But he said hasn't been able to get any trailers in 8 - 9 months. He is in a bad mood. I will have to search out some other dealers. But maybe the stinky dealer can order some parts for me.
-
On 5/3/2021 at 2:04 PM, oldjohnt said:
I think I would remove the metal shield to gain access to the burner to clean and inspect it (they can get clogged). Then for no more then they cost Id at least consider purchase (versus just cleaning, but if alls well sure use it ) a new ignitor tip and flame sensor (or however the assembly comes for your unit). For gas operation typically there's no 120 VAC present, any eyebrow or other Gas/Elec switches set correctly, the gas valve opens and the ignitor tip starts firing a spark and if she lights and the flame sensor circuitry senses flame it remains lit, otherwise the gas valve closes. Looks like at the minimum the ignitor and flame sensor (and any other dirty sooty or clogged components) needs inspected, cleaned up and replaced if necessary.
Note the accumulation of soot could mean there's a problem with the burner itself (clogged up) and/or chimney and venting (maybe all clogged up, or dirt or foreign material or wasps etc) which makes getting into the burner and chimney area above it absolutely necessary...... I have even seen so much soot the ignitor tip area is shorted out so the flame cant ignite. Theres a chance cleaning up the burner and/or ignitor tip and flame sensor may cure the problem with no purchases necessary ?????????? I once helped a friend do that very same thing when his fridge wouldn't work on electric.......
Let us know what you find
John T
I tried to dissemble but the hex head attachment on the left of the photo won't budge.
-
On 5/2/2021 at 8:06 PM, Ray,IN said:
I assume you have removed the metal cover that insulates the burner???? If it is missing the burner will not function properly, plus it is a fire hazard.
You need a new flame sensor/igniter by the looks of the pictures. Remove that old one, take it to any RV parts supply store and buy a new one.
Clean up the LP burner and chamber before installing the new sensor/igniter. You may download the service manual for your refrigerator from bryantrv.com
OK, thanks. Didn't know the sheet metal it was a must. I thought it may have been the problem and caused overheating.
-
I got a 2011 NorthStar TC.
8.5 Adventurer (2016) For Short or Long Bed | Northstar Campers
Had it down to about zero degrees. I got 2 furnaces in it. Standard forced air and a ventless mini non electric propane. The ventless is only used to supplement the forced air furnace in cold weather. It is OK by itself if it is 35 - 40 degrees. But if it is real cold it won't heat up the cabin well. Maybe it will heat to 55 degrees on high if it is 20-25 outside.
If I have electric I use a mini electric heater and don't need propane. If I heat the cabin all is OK with the water. If I don't heat the cabin everything is frozen. Can't open or close faucets. I have a wet bathroom with shower. No push outs. TC was about $16-17K 10 years ago. No AC, no basement.
The TC's have shot up in price. Looks like it is $28K. I could not afford one now. If I could do it over I would rather have a little Class C. But I wanted 4WD and it paid off a few times where I got stuck.
Good luck OP.
-
Here is the photo with soot...
.jpg.029d3b4426b33853f2d94800faf592cf.jpg)
-
12V and 110V work good, but not propane. I think gas will light, but wont keep fridge cold. (At least it used to light.)
Here are some photos. The sliver sheet metal plate had some soot on it. It was around the white part with the soot on it.
Talked to local RV dealer. He said he wont work on it, he only works on trailers. (This is a truck camper.) He told me to drive about 120 miles to get some work done on it.
I cleaned the soot off the white part. Some of the wire looks melted, but is still attached. Fridge is from 2011.
Thanks
-
-
2 hours ago, Danandfreda said:
We just traveled from Florida to Tennessee and stayed in bass pro,rural king and Walmart parking lots . We did find Home Depot that would allow it. We use the all stays app a lot to find places. We went 5 consecutive days during that time. Having large tanks and solar and lithium batteries made it easy. Spent 8out of 11 days in parking lots
Yes, Cabela's / Bass Pro is good.
-
What is wrong with Walmart? Article below say about 58% are still allowing overnight parking.
I seldom use Walmart any more. I boondock at rest stops, casinos, motel parking lots, truck stops, etc.
Walmart Not The Haven For RV Parking It Once Was – Good Day Sacramento (cbslocal.com)
Seldom if ever pay except for NYC and some of the springs in FLA. But that does not mean you can boondock all over the 50 states for free. Every place is different.
I was talking to a guy about boondocking (urban that is.) He said it was low class. OK, call me low class. I try to live within my budget. Gas alone is very high when you take a trip and gas prices may climb even more.
-
I was wondering about on the road emergency fixes. Where you have little time to screw around from trip interruptions.
-
If you own an old rig, did you every have trouble getting it repaired on the road due to age?
What age is getting parts an issue?
Thanks
-
-
Or does it do the hot water tank no harm?
Thanks
-
OP, I'm like you and don't like schedules. I urban boondock. Got a truck camper, so can park almost anywhere.
I seldom stay at a park except when forced to in FLA and when going to NYC. Even then I prefer paying less and parking in their gravel parking lot and save $40 -$45 a day for no hookups.
It is $120 a day with hookups and if you can't fit everything in 45' length then it is $155 a day. Plus they require a 50% non refundable deposit.
NYC (Jersey City) is terrible for my budget. Sure, most anyone could swing it for a day or two. It is just I did volunteer work a week at a time and had pay my own way. But once the virus hit all that was shut down.
Good luck...and learn to enjoy being a boondocker!
-
-
I'm parking rig at a house in the woody area, but still city. They said bears are seen once in a while. It is in the PA area. Do bears break in the RV when people are inside? Any experience with bears?
I guess these are brown bears.
Thanks
-
1 hour ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:
Depending on the park we're in, I will crank the electric heat and stay nice and cozy that way as well. Add an extra 800watt heater in the basement and the floors stay nice and toasty.
Sounds nice!
No basement. Floors have towels over a lot of it to keep them warmish. Floors are about 50 degrees. Head height is 72. Floor near rear exit door is colder. Has ice on it.
-
1 hour ago, bigjim said:
This has been cussed and discussed time and again over the years and I respect your choice. In my case I also take into consideration the time and fuel to take my cylinders to be refilled and that often tips the scale for me.
I'm getting free electric now. But still use some propane. My little electric heater will only bring the camper to about 60 in 10 degree weather. So I crank up my vent free mini propane heater. I also try to have my force air furnace cycle on every few hours to refresh the cabin air. It sucks air out and pulls fresh air in.
The mini electric heater works ok down into the 20's, but that is it. I got 2 -20 gallon propane tanks. So try to limit their use. If the weather was warmer I'd use nill propane, just for cooking.
-
Never been out west to compare condensation problems. I'm always in humid northeast.
I cleaned out everything not needed since my rig is so small. Clutter up against cold interior walls is a condensation magnet.
-
Wow, sounds exciting. I never get hunting, but I always fantasize about fishing in Canada if I'd hit the lotto.
I also get ice on windows. I cut some insulation and jammed it around skylight in shower. I got a wet shower and it gets pretty wet from condensation even with no use.
Both skylight was painted over to keep sun out. In the summer the skylights let in too much sun. No AC, I try and cut down the heat. It gets 95 degrees inside.
-
I've been down to 1 or 2 degrees in my truck camper. I've got ice on the floor near the door.
On previous trip, which was down in the 20's I found condensation 2-1/2 weeks after the trip in closets jammed packed with stuff wrapped in plastic. The water forms on the walls and plastic keeps it from evaporating. I guess all the closets need to be open after cold weather use.
Do you have any issues with condensation and cold weather use?
-
-
Thanks for the feedback.
That diesel fuel must be filthy. Some of the people in the other thread said the filter was clogged up with debris that looked like coffee grounds. And water in diesel was mentioned as well.
I've never changed a gas filter in any of my vehicles, but maybe I should.
-
I was reading a thread at another forum about problems with diesel RV's and the fuel filters. They said they get clogged up easy and you can get gas starved and the engine dies.
I was thinking about getting a diesel pickup one day. But sounds like they are not as reliable as gas engines.
.jpg.029d3b4426b33853f2d94800faf592cf.jpg)
Propane wont run fridge
in Technical Tips and Tricks
Posted
I looked up the maker Kirk. It is a Dometic. Still trying to find the model. On the plastic cover that comes off to access the fridge parts there is a label but it is all worn and don't know if it is the model number.