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We've had a Weber Q1000 for many years now for the house and like it very much.  It runs off a 2.5 gal tank and cooks great.  We talked about getting another one of these (or a similar grill) for our TT as the trailer has a quick connect outlet near the rear bumper - supposedly for this use. However, I am seeing some older threads discussing issues trying to use gas grills and the RV connection - double regulated and too low a pressure.  I really do not want to carry a separate propane cylinder or purchase the small disposable ones.  I see that some are modifying the grills such as removing and replacing the OEM regulator.  Is that the only viable option to using the onboard twin 7.5 gallon tanks?  With so many RV's having the outside gas connection option, it would seem like the grill OEM's would have targeted this use/application?

While we're on the topic of portable BBQ's, which make/model did you choose and how do you like it?  Are you able to use the RV's main propane tanks without any modifications to the grill?

Note; I plan to test out our Weber using the TT connection but need to buy the quick-connect hose & adapter... wanted to check with the forum before spending $45 for something that simply does not work... or work well.

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49 minutes ago, freestoneangler said:

Is that the only viable option to using the onboard twin 7.5 gallon tanks? 

Yup. What SWharton said. A little more too it than that. You'll need to install an inlet port to your grill, preferrably a quick connect with a shut-off to match your hose, but it's a very simple, inexpensive mod and well worth the convenience.

There are all kinds of youtubes if you do a search on "weber quick connect conversion".

All of the Q series grills will do the job nicely. Mainly just depending on what size, BTU's and if you want electric ignition or not. The innards are identical. 

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50 minutes ago, Yarome said:

Yup. What SWharton said. A little more too it than that. You'll need to install an inlet port to your grill, preferrably a quick connect with a shut-off to match your hose, but it's a very simple, inexpensive mod and well worth the convenience.

There are all kinds of youtubes if you do a search on "weber quick connect conversion".

All of the Q series grills will do the job nicely. Mainly just depending on what size, BTU's and if you want electric ignition or not. The innards are identical. 

And they work the same with respect to BTU output when operating on the low pressure system?  I did find some You Tube DIY videos after making the post and a few other threads on other forums.  Several stated that the grills designed for high pressure tanks simply do not the same cooking performance running on the RV regulator.  One suggested simply adding a y-hose or tee upstream of the twin tank regulator.

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Other than from the tank to the reg I won't use high pressure propane........never considered myself fast enough to shut the propane off before a 200psi propane leak reached a source of ignition.

Checking for leaks (especially the disconnects) gets missed on the DYI info.

Low pressure can have a supply problem if the pipes/hoses are too small/too long.

We are very happy with our 3 burner Camp Chef. We have the reversible griddle and the BBQ box for it.

 

 

 

2011 Cameo 34SB3

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15 hours ago, freestoneangler said:

And they work the same with respect to BTU output when operating on the low pressure system?  I did find some You Tube DIY videos after making the post and a few other threads on other forums.  Several stated that the grills designed for high pressure tanks simply do not the same cooking performance running on the RV regulator.  One suggested simply adding a y-hose or tee upstream of the twin tank regulator.

Typically, no. You're right.. and there is generally a bit of a BTU drop. Some folks say it's not noticiable while others will argue differently. Usually.. that's such a long run to your grill (10'.. 15' runs) .. and with other house LP loads (stovetop, HW, etc.) it only makes sense that you're going to see performance under the rated BTU's.

IMHO, I think it depends more on what type of grilling you do. A bit longer cook time on some types of food isn't such an issue, but trying to get that deep sear on a ribeye is a completely different animal. Me... I'm a "sear guy" and BTU's matter. I also don't like dry chicken or whole grilled veggies that are whithered up on the the outside but still crunchy on the inside.

I'm not going to say it's necessarily the "smartest" thing to do, but when I ran mine, I went the more complicated route of plumbing into the high pressure side. That's quite a job though if you're running dual tanks and adds another level of potential points of failure. To each their own, but made ME happy. :D

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11 hours ago, J-T said:

Other than from the tank to the reg I won't use high pressure propane........never considered myself fast enough to shut the propane off before a 200psi propane leak reached a source of ignition.

 

That is very good advice. There is a reason RV's have the regulator mounted at the tanks and even residential houses have the regulator mounted outside the building, no high pressure lines inside. In a RV that experiences moving and shaking during it's lifetime, you really want to minimize high pressure lines and joints. No sense adding to your risk exposure.

Greg

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10 hours ago, Yarome said:

I'm not going to say it's necessarily the "smartest" thing to do, but when I ran mine, I went the more complicated route of plumbing into the high pressure side. That's quite a job though if you're running dual tanks and adds another level of potential points of failure. To each their own, but made ME happy. :D

A high pressure gauge will keep track of (bleed down) and warn of any developing issues.

 

2011 Cameo 34SB3

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