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TL-ANT2412D Antenna


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We have the WiFi Go Ranger, with the Phantom 7.0.2 Firmware. We've had this installed with the WFRBoost and a smaller antenna. They say that the Boost is outdated and is not supported well by the Go. How can I get rid of it in the Control Panel? It seems to conflict with it and it and our signal keeps dropping out. I've sent them screenshots of how we have it setup and everything is fine.

 

"It sounds like the issue may be that the WFRBoost has an IP address conflict with the NETGEAR. Change the IP address of your WFRBoost to avoid future IP conflicts:

1) Go to the WiFiRanger Control Panel
2) Select Setup tab
3) Click WFRBoost hyperlink (takes you to AirOS control panel for WFRBoost)
4) Enter ubnt / ubnt for the username / password
5) Select Network tab
6) Change IP Address from 192.168.1.20 to 192.168.250.20
7) Save changes
8) Go back to the WiFiRanger Control Panel
9) Expand the WFRBoost settings on the Setup tab
10) Enter 192.168.250.20 to replace 192.168.1.20
11) Click Save
12) Reboot both WiFiRanger and WFRBoost
13) Ensure WFRBoost is still configured and then try connecting to the WiFi network

This should avoid the IP Conflict at this location, and many others as the 192.168.1.x IP scheme is very common."

 

"Perhaps the WFRBoost is simply not compatible with that network. Since the WFRBoost is a very old technology, some networks don't work with it"

 

 

 

I also would like to install a TL-ANT2412D antenna for better reception. Can I just remove the Boost and hook up the antenna? Are there any configurations that need to be changed?

 

Becky and Paul Lawry

1968 Silver Eagle Model 01

VIN # 7443

8v71 Allison HT 740

2011 Buick Enclave

Full Timing

 

 

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It IS a good idea to change the default IP addresses as indicated. I would do that.

 

As to the antenna, you can replace the Laird (stubby antenna) with any antenna with the right connections. The issue is going to be haw will you physically support it. That 12 dbi antenna is very large and will put a lot of strain on the connector. There are ways around this, but none of them are a total solution in an RV environment - at least for a permanent mounted system. Using that setup I'd use a pole mount and mount it as needed.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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I have changed the default IP address already. I'm thinking of mounting it to our Sensar antenna just like the short one. I think I can work around the strain on the connection.

 

If there is nothing else I need to do, I'm going to give it a whirl.

 

Thanks for your comment Jack!

 

Becky and Paul Lawry

1968 Silver Eagle Model 01

VIN # 7443

8v71 Allison HT 740

2011 Buick Enclave

Full Timing

 

 

Our Travel Blog

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You just need to seal it up good, or you WILL have issues. Use Coax Seal over GOOD quality tape.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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