Rotorhead

1 hour ago, mr. cob said:

Howdy Chuck,

I think I'll be installing new cab air bags soon, they are pretty crusty looking and of course the bolts are rusty.

Dave

Hiya Dave,

I watched a video on that. Didn’t look too bad. Rust is the biggest deal huh? Mine are crusty looking too. But I am going to go get my drive shaft carrier bearing done first. It’s toast. The bags are still working for now.

Chuck

I also found the carrier bearing for the drive shaft is shot. You can move it up and down a good bit. If you lift it and drop it it clunks. Hopefully no knocking after I get that replaced.

Well I tried to replace my cab shocks. But the top bolt on the driver side is rusted in there good. Shop job.

I replaced a leaking cab leveling valve.

and finally the steering drag link joints were worn. Not super bad but not I feel much better about that.

I also finished putting all four rear shocks on the other day.

while trying to do the cab shocks I found that the bearing carrier (vibration isolation mount) for the drive shaft is shot! I believe that is my final knocking noise that I have been looking for for months now. Shop job. 
I might be able to do it but I am going to drop it off and let the shop do it. More people, tools and skills, plus it’s getting cold out now. Hahaha.

that hopefully be all for quite a while.

Chuck

I did find the control arm for the cab air shocks disconnected. So the bags weren’t inflated. And that’s where the majority of my noise was coming from. I have a new leveling valve and can shocks on the way. 
I still have a kind of knocking noise when moving but haven’t found that yet. Time will reveal it. Hopefully not at an inconvenient time and place.

Thanks. I certainly will be doing some more looking. I know the cab shocks and bags are no good as well. The bags are leaning towards the drivers side. The leveling valve arm was not attached when I got it but was able to get it to stay back on the ball for now. Probably needs to be replaced. She is a well worn truck. Hahaha.

Thanks Darry,

I am supposing you just support the engine/transmission in the vicinity of the rear mounts?

I am going to replace them pretty soon. Even the front one. It can only help as it has a lot of miles. 891,000.

Hello All,

I was wondering if anyone has changed rear engine mounts before? I have a 2010 Volvo 780 with a  Cummins ISX and Eaton xmsn. I am thinking about changing engine mounts because there is some shaking and a kind of drum roll/thumping noise when you push the accelerator (under load). 

There is nothing obviously loose. There are a couple places where the exhaust and another part are close to touching the cab or frame. So I was thinking that they could be touching and making the noise if the mounts are in fact bad.

I have already replaced bad tie-rod ends and that wasn't it.

Thanks,

Chuck

I have that sometimes if one of my vehicles sits for too long. I started spreading moth ball crystals (smaller balls) under my RV and just in the wood line. We had a mouse in the camper this past spring. Since I started using the moth balls/crystals I haven't seen any trace of the critters. Of course a few good outdoor cats will do the trick as well right!

Well, wouldn't you know it. Right when I was thinking about ordering a jack-a-lopee to start my conversion, my starter went out! And of course as I am heading out of town for some training. So I had to call a 24/7 place. OUCH! That one repair probably could have just about completed my wiring and the ball hitch. While that was being done he said the tie-rod ends were shot. So I bought new ones and replaced them. Let me tell you if you haven't done that before, it was a lot of work heating and banging on them to get them out. The drivers side fell apart when it came loose. After that I put on new front shocks. They were done as well. Anyway, now I have an alignment scheduled and then I can hopefully rest easy for a bit. Oh, and BTW, I won't be doing those tie-rod ends next time, hahaha. At least I used anti-seize on them.

I found an air leak coming from a green line off the compressor. I believe those are the push in and pull type connectors. Anyway, I will be addressing that next. Don't want to loose all my hot air! haha

Thanks. that sounds like a great place. I am checking it out today.

Thanks. I will check it out. Kinda like a second opinion to cross check results.

Hello all,

I had bought a 2010 Volvo 780 back in June. They said they did an oil sample before I went out there and that they hadn't heard anything back and that that is good news usually.

I went ahead and bought a kit through AMSOIL and sent it in. I thought it got lost so I ordered another and sent that in. Well wouldn't you know it I got the results back from both in the same week. Both were in the normal range, one at 0 and the other at 1. The one that was at one was only for a slight elevation in tin. Everything else was good.

I thought that was pretty good considering the engine has 890,000 miles on it and hasn't been rebuilt as far as I know. There are, however. a number of small things that have been disconnected and left that way in the engine bay.

Anyway, does anyone else do sampling? If so, have you used AMSOIL or would you recommend another place?

Thanks,

Chuck

53 minutes ago, Marianne45 said:

Rotorhead…wish we did have a friend who could help us with that, but I think we are out of all options except the illegal one. 😀

Man that stinks. Well sometimes we need to operate in the "grey" area for a short time.

Thanks Kirk.

On 9/2/2021 at 10:24 AM, Marianne45 said:

We try to do things by the book…in this case driving to take the road test is a challenge.

I have tried multiple avenues to be able to obtain the upgraded license prior to getting the RV.  Renting an RV to take the test usually requires a minimum of 2 nights and costs like $1500.  All we need it for is a half a day.  
 

Thanks for all your input. 

Do you have a friend with a license that could drive you and your RV to take the road test?

This is all great information. Thanks to all I really appreciate it.

I was thinking of the situation and thought I'd share as it may be relevant.

We were setting up around dinner time. I was outside doing all the hook ups etc... My wife was trying to cook some dinner. She said the stove isn't working. So I turned the gas on and went about my business. After a bit I smelled gas. So I went inside and it was very strong. They all said they couldn't smell it. I guess she decided to microwave hotdogs instead of using the stove and had left the knob on LO. Anyway, I got them out and opened the windows to air it out. We went down to the beach for a while. Of course I forgot to turn the AC unit off.

Is it possible that that made it freeze up? Unit running, windows open, hot and humid?

Chuck

Thx TXiceman and RV.

I have a dometic 15,000 BTU ducted, with the vent to open to direct flow.

Chuck

Thanks Kirk. Next time I think I’ll climb up and look at the unit. We were at the beach and it was high humidity. 
I guess we could have shut it down and went to the beach and had fun for a few hours and then came back and tried it. 
At least they gave us a rain check. 
Chuck

I have a picture of the make and model and all that so I can search parts and repair info.

Freeze sensor? Guess it’s time to do some learning on the ac system. Haha

It was all clear and blowing good. Condensation running off the roof. It seems to be working now. My wife thinks it’s not as cold as it was last month…. But it’s working. It was just weird the way it was acting.

Hello All,

we went out on a trip to the beach a few days ago. We got all set up and turned the air on. One of us turned it to 68. It was probably about 90 outside with a heat index of around 98. The air kinda worked for a while. The thermostat was acting weird to. It’s a touch screen one and the numbers were intermittent and then worked. Anyway it was not cooling down and the it quit. We packed it up the following morning and went home. On the way out an rv repair guy was there and I asked him about it. He said we froze the system by going to 68. He said never go below 72.

what do you all think?

Chuck

On 8/28/2021 at 10:09 PM, Sparky242 said:

When all in today,  I started using my 2000 Volvo 610 about two years ago and I kept my 2004 Ford F-350 DWR just incase the Volvo didn't work out.  This week I looked at the miles that I have put on the Ford since I started driving the Volvo and it was about 2000 miles in 2 years so today I sold it, cant see it sit and deteriorate. I bought the Ford new and really enjoyed it.   Sad to see it go but the Volvo is so much better(and so much more fun)  When someone asks why I need a HDT there are lots of reasons, Braking,power,visibility, but I just tell them it is just plain fun 

Your right. It is just plain fun!

45 minutes ago, GlennWest said:

Egr destroys diesels 

That’s what I have been gathering. 
it seems I should be able to disconnect the tube at the intake and just vent it to the atmosphere. Down low of course. 
I am definitely going to do some research on shutting it down.

5 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

I'm suggesting blocking off the passage. No changes to appearance, but a lot longer life.

Hi Darryl,

you mean blocking off the EGR passage correct? I have thought about that by blocking off where the Venturi tube goes into the intake and then adding an extension to vent the exhaust below. Of course I haven’t done any research on the right way to do a EGR delete.

a guy at work showed me pictures of his EGR pipes on his diesel pickup. They were nearly clogged. Bad design huh!